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What is the timing on a New Holland C185 with Iveco 334T-M2

sawdustmaker ยท 2016-08-14 11:47

According to New Holland you set the timing by pinning the flywheel Then setting the pump to required lift spec which lines up with this mark I have been told by several people that some of the flywheels in these engines were mis-drilled so that setting the timing this way would not give you the correct timing. When the flywheel is pinned the motor is approximately 4 degrees PAST TDC. Is this correct? It seems odd to me but i do not know what the pump is timed to.

Replies14
  1. #1thepumpguysc2016-08-14 15:59

    The driveshaft on the pump should be locked from the fuel shop.. I see in the pic it has a locking bolt.. the engine is pinned and the drive shaft is not keyed.. DEGREASE the shaft. threads, nut and gear.. install pump and apply blue Loctite to threads.. Tighten nut to 90ft lbs.. Loosen driveshaft locking bolt and slide spacer washer under bolt and retighten bolt.. IF the drive shaft was not locked when you got the pump back.. or you didn't lock it when you removed it.. your SOL unless you can find the PUMP LIFT SPEC on the valve cover.. IF so.. I can walk you thru it as long as you have a dial indictor.. and a vise to hold the pump.

  2. #2thepumpguysc2016-08-14 16:02

    Is THIS the machine that wont go to full RPM's?? What did you find?? did you send the pump back off??

  3. #3sawdustmaker2016-08-14 18:16

    If the hole in the flywheel was drilled in the wrong place then my timing is going to be wrong. Multiple people have told me they had an issue with these holes being Mis-drilled.

  4. #4sawdustmaker2016-08-14 18:19

    Yes, it is the same machine. I have not sent the pump off a third time yet. I'm still at loss as to what can be the problem. At this point I'm even wondering if this is the wrong pump for this machine. I can look on the machine tomorrow and see if it has the lift spec on the tag, but it was locked from the pump shop so I'm confident its correct.

  5. #5thepumpguysc2016-08-14 19:13

    Yeah, if it was locked, don't mess w/ it.. I haven't heard about any miss-drilled timing holes. That's not to say it isn't out there. IF memory serves correct.. On the front where you pulled the nut off the gear.. The gears will be marked.. A 3 & 3 for 3&6 cyl and a 4&4 for a 4 cyl.. They are a real pain to see. so get a light and some degreaser..

  6. #6GaryHoff2016-08-18 03:28

    I wouldn't be too concerned about the lock pin hole being slightly off. None of the timing pin holes are exactly precise. You would have to remove a injector and put a dial indicator in the hole to get and exact TDC measurement. Just make sure you were at #1 tdc compression. I'm assuming your engine doesn't use the woodruff key. Pump pre lift spec should be 1.00mm +/ - 0.05mm. Aim for 1.05. Nut torque is 15ft/lbs initial, 77ft/lbs final. Meaning, torque to 15ft/lbs, unlock the pump then torque to 77ft/lbs. As thepumpguysc said, make sure the shaft and gear are clean first, and locktight the nut. I always checked the timing after pump installation using the dial indicator on the injection pump. This is mostly due to the gear slipping, and the backlash of the gears in the timing cover. The timing from the pump shop should be close enough for the machine to run.

  7. #7wlbryce2017-05-09 11:12

    Hi Guys Replacing the injection pump in my NW LT185B but have run into a problem right off the bat. The pump has a anti tamper bolt that I have not seen before. Any idea on this bolt? Not much room to grind or cut it. The reason Im pulling the pump is because it is leaking crazy bad from the back side. Dealer says the pump is bad because it was run out of fuel and the colt start piston broke. Not sure on this. I just purchased the machine used so now I know why it was a good deal! LOL Here is the leak Here is the Bolt I need to remove

  8. #8thepumpguysc2017-05-09 18:57

    I get them off w/ a dremel tool w/ an extension wand & a cutting wheel.. OR.. just wack it w/ a chisel in the unscrew direction.. Your dealer is correct in this case.. seen 1000's of them like that.. there is a service bulletin on the cause. Either the filter got clogged OR the lift pump went bad and it sucked air & beat itself to death, internally.. Sorry for your bad luck.. your looking at over 1k to 2k for another pump ..

  9. #9wlbryce2017-05-09 20:42

    Got the pump off. Cant I just replace the C clip that is gone and reseal the governor piston? The dealer wants $2850.00 for a rebuild. Do you know of a place to get this pump rebuilt cheaper? Or a rebuild? This project turned ugly when I dropped the washer dow into the aux gear-train. so I had to pull the motor. I never have any luck Will have to drop the pan next. http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t369/wlbryce/IMG_4437_zpsts0pnnuf.jpg http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t369/wlbryce/IMG_4434_zpspolaaiim.jpg

  10. #10wlbryce2017-05-09 21:59

    Fixed the photos

  11. #11thepumpguysc2017-05-10 04:56

    Push the rod thru & check the other end.. that's where the clip goes.. 50/50 shot its broken on that end. There should be a small groove for the clip.. Take the cover plate off the other side.. that's where it beats itself to death. If you want, box it up & send it to me.. I'll give you an estimate. just PM me for email & address.

  12. #12thepumpguysc2017-05-10 04:59

    Sorry the last pic didn't come thru.. I see it now.. it looks like its reusable.

  13. #13thepumpguysc2017-05-10 05:03

    IF you wanna try to reseal it.. read me the 10 digit Bosch # & I'll give you the P#'s for the Gaskets & clip. 0 460 424 005??

  14. #14wlbryce2017-05-10 09:01

    I think I would like to send it to you. If it can be resealed then great, otherwise lets rebuild it. I sent you a PM / "Conversation..