JD 570A This is a picture of the return hydraulic line before it gets to the intercooler on the right. The line junction is right over the radiator. I've had several failures at this junction because of a jury rigged connection with hose clamps. The pressure in line varies with demand. First failure due to old hose cracking. Second failure when the new hose, slipped off due to clamp not holding. Third failure when the wire job plus clamp slipped. Upon further research, (acquiring the factory hose), it was apparent something had changed from the original. Does aluminum tubing shrink or do idiots get a hold of hack saws when the radiator needs work? Just guessing from the shop records that this is what happened back when. Ok now I need to go to solution. This tubing should have a bead about one half inch from the current end to prevent slipping. I noticed that in the parts manual that Deere made a replacement tube that moved the end out to meet the intercooler with a strait hose and clamps. So I could build an extension and use a compression nut to join the new piece. Ideally I would have a bead on this new piece, however I have not been able to locate a bead machine for 3/4 pipe. I'm thinking that a strait pipe, no bead, would not slip if both pieces it is connecting are fixed in position, so the connection is in a straight line. The clamps would just need prevent leaking. A bead would be best, but ??? Am I missing something here?
Take that line off and have a weldor TIG a nice fat bead ring around the circumference, same thing, you're just giving the hose and clamp something to bite on. Leave it back about an inch and cut your hose so it's long enough to pass about an inch and a half past the bead. Clamps on both sides, one to seal the hose, the other to bite down on the back side of the weld bead to prevent slipping. My two cents.
What lantraxco says plus I locate four clamps like those in the picture below: Then I'd install them with bolts 180º apart, two at each end, and make sure you use hose rated for oil return, some radiator hose is not compatible with oil.
KSHANSEN, Yup! Love those clamps!
The quarry I just retired from has a Komatsu WA600 with a KT19 Cummins in it. The factory hose clamps on it were the screw type where the "threads" in the strap were just embossed not cut in like most. We had all kinds of leaks in the cooling system till Norm and I got fed up and replaced every one with those bolt type clamps with the belleville washers, any place there was room we put two on each end of the hose! That was back in 1999 when machine was about five years old. As of the last day I worked they have not had another problem with coolant leaks.
Do you have access to oxy/acetylene, or lpg set ? If yes just buy a brass olive from your plumbing suppliers in 1 inch, dosent matter if its smaller,just cut and silver solder onto the metal tube end, use tenacity flux and silver solder.jobs done.
The T bolt type clamps used often on turbo hoses are probably the best as they use a bolt and nut instead of a worm gear.
Thanks for all the replies. I'm opting for extending the metal tube over the radiator, connecting the two pieces with a compression type fitting. The extension has a ninety degree bend which will allow for a short straight connection of "oil compatible" return hose with the oil cooler. As both pieces are fixed in place with bolts, it won't be able to move without breaking the compression fitting. This will basically mimic the replacement tube that JD offers. I like the idea of silver solder and a brass ring for the stop to prevent leakage, though I think that either of the clamps mentioned above can accomplish that, I did say that I never wanted to experience this problem again
Even if the two pipes are solid mounted I would like to see a ridge of some kind on each pipe. Maybe a little paranoid but with changes in pressure and temperatures I can see the hose moving a tiny bit at a time and working it way down a smooth pipe till it gets to the point it could start leaking. Three or four dots of weld spaced around the pipes would make me sleep better. Ideally a full ring of weld would be my choice.
One other option are these couplers: http://hosewarehouse.com/Hydraulic-Aeroquip-Flexmaster-Couplings-and-Joints Some of them have steel teeth like rings inside the rubber seal ring to lock them on the pipe. A better view would be on page 8-9 of this catalog: http://content.yudu.com/Library/A1qo3x/EatonAeroquipFlexmas/resources/index.htm?referrerUrl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F
Not wanting to experience the problem is easily solved,SELL it