this pic is from the outside side between the two wheels after unscrewing the inspection plug to look at the end of the hydraulic drive motor shaft on case 1835c skid steer. it seems to me a spacer washer is falling down because the shaft is inward too far or not fully through the bearing and into the washer , and since the motor is flush and not pushed out from its mount the shaft displacement must be purely internal and to top it off the wheels (all 4) will slowly roll on a hill when skid steer is stopped off or on as if there is a small leak preventing full hydrostatic lock. please let me know what you think . thank you.
I think you need to determine if the drive motor is properly installed and the mounting bolts tight. Something doesn't look right or a part is missing. On a hill even a hydrostatic machine can still slowly creep down when shut off. That's why skid steers have emergency brakes.
The drive sprocket has come off the motor spindle. If memory serves, there's a ser screw that locks it on. I mean , I haven't touched one since the late 80s, so yeah. I don't remember if there's a top tin cover or if you worked through the sides, but I do remember them being a challenge. As Dave mentioned, I don't think you'll get 100% HSL out of a skidder. Those swash plates get so abused from idiots wanting to do wheelies with them. That probably contributed to the sprocket run off.
Since the cab is off, check that double roller drive coupler between the engine and pump. You'll be happy you did.
Coupler failure, they are never convenient. Good suggestion!
Welcome to HEF @mikweb73 There is a torrington bearing pressed into a self-aligning bush (#7) which supports the end of the drivemotor shaft - remove the wheels & the round plate & check for damage to the shaft - most times a new torrington bearing (#6) & spacers (#8) is required & you are back to making dust.
by the paint and gasket goop looks i think the drive motors are original install and are tight , o loose bolts. i ran it up a 30 deg hill and it did roll down at a consistent snails pace. the locking pins i just barely started playing with, one has a missing or crushed engagement spring the other seems to have a missing retaining part and both are for now held unlocked by vise grips on the cables , hillbilly style , just like the ratchet strap seatbelt until i can find a new one. i can carry a few 2x4s in the cab i can jam in the wheels if i have to. i was only at half throttle and have popped several unintentional wheelies so far , and after i took that previous picture , i had not driven it much and very slowly before that previous picture so i don't have to take the blame for for the damage yet. probably should stop using it until i get that figured out. i will try to check the double universals between motor/pump but as luck would have it already had cab back on before i read these responses. i did hit the zerks on the two that were exposed probable should have took the fly shroud off to get to the other two. any thing in particular other than the retaining rings i should focus on? thanks for the welcome and the schematic. i am hesitant to tear into the drive motors and chain locker and possibly cause more problems for myself. i may be able to sell it at auction and get more than my money back as i bought it very nonfunctional. if i start digging around in there , corroded bolts break and strip etc as has been the case so far and new seals and since i am there tighten a chain , drain chain oil clean out gunk , 5 to 10 gal new chain oil , plus bearings and other components and i will end up coming up short if i sell it . but then again if something is about to finally fail bad and i don't take the opportunity to fix it , it will be way worse . i have some time to think about it to decide which way i will roll the dice. thank you all for your info and help , have a good one, later.