Hi guys, I was wondering, is it necesary to use brand specific grease and oil for our machines, ie: caterpillar specifies using cat grease for the zirks. Are there special ingredients in cat's grease and oil that automotive grease and oil doesnt have? Thanks
In my experience this is were long term results can be made from short term decisions. I would use no less than this grease or equivilant. Early on many large fleet customers were using the Multipurpose Automotive type grease CAT # 1P-0808. This grease doesn't contain Molybdenum and thus it doesn't protect moderatly loaded joints. During certain conditions loader frame and bucket hinge and tilt pins can be severly shock loaded which will compromise regular light duty greases leaving your pins and bearings exposed to wear. the brand of grease is not as improtant as the Moly content and dropping point. I really think this selection is key to long machine life.
I've been all over the board on this. Currently I'm using any "XP" grease that is priced right, like Gulfgem. jmf
It depends...one of the machines I'm familiar with simply calls for an EP2 grease. Since the pins are getting near to worn out (from lack of grease by an operator that was fired for such) that any grease is better than none, and helps to keep it going until new pins and bushings can be justified. Buying it in tubes, by the case, I think the tubes work out to about 2.25 each... Any grease, used regularly is better than a good grease not used nearly enough.
I read the labels on all the brands out there for grease, I make sure they call out for my machine, like for my backhoes, and it has to call out it has excellent wear against water wash out and pound out... this way I know I'm at least in the ball park.... I believe I see Moly listed in the grease I use like what CarteKraft is saying....
I use Shaeffers in just about everything.I started using it about 13 yrs ago now,been with it ever since. http://www.schaefferoil.com/datapdf/238.pdf
Actually "EP" is extreme pressure not XP. This characteristic assures the grease stays put. As explained in the Wiki Encyclopedia: "EP grease contains solid lubricants, usually graphite and/or molybdenum disulfide, to provide protection under heavy loadings. The solid lubricants bond to the surface of the metal, and prevent metal-to-metal contact and the resulting friction and wear when the lubricant film gets too thin." jmf
That is what I was trying to say just couldn't get my fingers to type it. EP in everything, multipurpose is for car wheel bearings, not dirt movers.
I just put moly grease in everything. That's my multi-purpose grease. Which leads me to my question. Is there an instance, in normal maintenance of equipment or vehicles, where you wouldn't want to use moly grease, excluding any price differences and such?
CarterKraft (or anyone else), I've used this Traveller grease for a long time. Is it not cut out for heavy equipment? It says multi-purpose, bearings, etc., but it does say high pressure. I could not find the ingredients on the tube to see if it has the right amount of Moly. Here's the link: http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp..._____14297|14312|14317|28252?listingPage=true
I have been using the same grease in my backhoe for about a year. I bought it with 200 hours on it and now have 350 hours on it. It seems just as tight now as when I got it.However after reading several posts on this forum recommending moly in grease for pins and bushings, I have switched to the lower grade of Traveler grease because it contains moly. Hope I made the right decision.
I have been using the extreme pressure red grease for years. It is NLGI rated for bearings and such but also states it's for off-road, construction, farming, and industrial applications where high temperatures and pressures can pound out the grease. I like it but I couldn't find where it said "moly" on it. Did have lithium soap, however.
thanks Thanks guys, I'm glad I asked. What about engine oil though. Are there special ingredients in there as well? Also, id like to hear your views on hydraulic oil as well. Thanks.
I use Shell Rotella 15W40 as it is about the only diesel oil readily available in my small community. Have used it for years in farm tractors and had no problems at all. When it comes to hydraulic fliud I pay a little more and buy factory fluid from my dealer. I seldom change the fluid just the filter and want to be sure I'm using whats best for the machine.
Exactly what we do. We've ran Rotella 15-40 for years and have been very happy with it. I couldn't tell you the break down of ingredients and if it's catagorically the best, just that it has worked good and we can buy it in bulk. Hydraulic fluid is always bought at the dealer and we use what they say is best for the machine. If it's for something other than a machine, like hydraulic ramps on the trailer, we'll just get Traveller from TSC or something similar.
One thing to reminder about grease is the right grease for the right job. Some are good for sliding loads and some for spinning loads. Read the application chart on the grease and find out what it was made for. Grease can be good on a sliding load but can't stay in place on a spinning load. I found this out one day after packing wheel bearings. I used great grease but under a spinning load the grease left the bearing dry.
I forgot to ask about the backhoe bucket links. Do they take a type of lube? They obviously don't have grease fittings. and the links have that gap of play between the pin and bushing so you can see how its wearing.... I've seen some backhoes with them pins grease and some units dry. I can't stand to see anything like that working with out grease.... but what about the grease picking up sand and dirt? So what does one do with that?? Do I keep them lubed or dry? Then I was thinking how about putting graphite on them pins? they won't attract sand and dirt and will still be lubing the links? My first time owning this caliber of a machine and not sure about a few things, thanks...
I dont know about you specific machine, but if the linkage has no grease point I would expect the pins to have a grease point to lube through the centre. If neither, then are they original pins? As for sand, yes it will stick to the grease but that is why you grease regularly, min daily and if in sandy material give the bucket pins a shot at lunch time. A little, often, is better than a lot once in a blue moon You dont have to use a tube a day to be greasing right.
The backhoe is a John Deere 310 (1988) and it has a Wainroy quick disconnect bucket. If I showed you a picture you'll know right away what links I'm asking about, they are very common on any backhoe, I should have called out what machine I have... The link/pin at the end of the piston is with a grease fitting, and the link/pin at the very end of the dipper stick has a grease fitting, I'm taking about the two other brackets/arms that work together with the dipper and piston links so you can scoop and dump the bucket, they are dry with a naturally very sloppy fit, and much smaller than the pins with a grease fitting.
Many refer to them as the tipping link, and yes they do seem to get play in them pretty quick so at the age of your machine I am not suprised you have play. The pin through the dipper will either be through the pin or a nipple ( jerk ) on the arm ( I would expect ) the other end where the ram connects might rely on lube from greasing the ram but I would expect a lube point in that pin or each link ( check the inside face also ) the same for the lower end of that link where it connects to the ( bucket ) Q hitch, either through the pin or on the link. Have a good look at both sides incase the nipples have been knocked off, one of the other members will soon chip in as to how thiers is lubed. It might be that the originals are through the pin and have been replaced with not originals and no lube point.