I have been looking for 6 nozzles/tips for a week now.. I finally found a Perkins site on the web that will allow you to “ask our team”.. I plugged in the Perkins p#, along w the Bosch #.. 2645F602 0 433 171 044 & hit send.. it wasn’t long after I got a response:: we have 16 in-stock and a price in euros.. I repeatedly asked for a conversion to US dollars and an estimate for delivery to the US..and was emailed a site to convert euros to dollars.. I emailed Perkins back saying I was ready to buy them, all I needed was an invoice to pay.. and an eta for delivery.. THEN I got ghosted.!! No more correspondence.. NOBODY in the states has them, as far as my search’s has found.. Can 1 or 10 of our HEF community in the UK help me, PLEASE.. Call or email their local Perkins dealers and see if they can find me these dam nozzles/tips.!! Tia.. the pump guy..
I guess this HEF site has some SERIOUS PULL.!!?? No sooner than I hit send, I received an email and an invoice from “my friend” in Yorkshire.!!
Because you posted this, I went looking around for whoever is my Perkins territory shop at the moment. Apparently there has been some shake up because none of the "usual suspects" even seem to exist any more. Instead it is some place I never heard of, when I called the number, it goes to another place that I have done a lot of business with before who didn't even like Perkins all that well...now they are the distributor. But my guy in that place has just retired, so I don't know anybody there now. I am pretty tired of these companies swapping all around. Why did you need it from the UK, was it not something normally found in America?
It’s an odd one, for sure.. The engine is a 6.354.4 yet no one has the tips.. The 1 guy who called me back said “his contact” said they’re discontinued w no replacement.. When I finally heard back from Perkins UK, they said they checked and there was NONE in the US.. But “they” had 16 in-stock.. I’m now in the process of figuring out how to do a “bank transfer”.. Oh what fun..(not) & seeing it’s the weekend and a 6hr time difference, things aren’t moving forward very fast.
International wire transfers aren't that bad once you've done a few. They're out of our United States comfort zone and local hometown bank branch familiarity. Widely done internationally. You will need to enlist the help of you local bank branch manager. You will need to pay in Euros(that's the destination currency). The destination bank name, Swift number, bank address, bank phone number with contact name, seller account number, routing number, phone number with a contact name. Your branch manager will handle the rest. Exchanging currency thru banks can incur a 10% fee. A lot of times, if the seller will accept a major credit card, or Pay Pal, this process is simple(small purchases). Just remember to call your credit card company and authorize the international payment or it will get declined. After purchasing a scraper from a private individual from Canada, and watching a friend from NZ purchase many pieces of equipment from the US, and ship over, I'm not afraid to do business internationally.
I did a money order once for making a purchase in the US. When she got it, she said the bank wouldn't take it, and it wasn't real money. I contacted the post office, and they said that was the dumbest thing they had ever heard. They said to tell her to take it to the post office. She said the post office didn't give it a second look, and handed her the cash. That was in the days before e mail money transfers though.
Thanks fellas, your making me feel better about the process.. I think I’ll call my cc company on Monday to alert them of the purchase.. that way I’m covered by the cc company if things go bad.. That being said:: What about a duty tax and it coming thru customs.??
If it's anything like the UK it will be dependent on the invoice value. I have no idea what is the US limit but the countries I'm familiar with it's around $300-1,000 (depending on country) to be free of duty. I found an article that states $800 for the US but it would be best to check. https://wise.com/us/import-duty/ I would guess that import paperwork will also depend how the consignment is being shipped. Postal service or a courier such as DHL, Fedex.? Here couriers might potentially have the edge because they will be more familiar with the customs requirements and thus ought to be able to make sure that the necessary paperwork is complete before shipping. One thing that apparently trips people up is the "Country of Origin". This is the country where the items in the consignment were originally manufactured , which may not necessarily be the same country as the one where they were sold.
Nige is correct, you should contact Dhl or FedEx they work that stuff every day. Price may fit in duty-free limit so maybe is best to order parts to you as a private person, not a company, export and import service to company may be more expensive than parts I will try to find and send you in pm few companies that may have that's parts.
thepumpguysc , might I just highlight a few problems and details that we in the U.K. have to work around, but first thing might i remind the fact that CAT bought Perkins Engines in (I think) 1988/9 so they have had long enough to sort out looking after the U.S. market, I will say that the last year + has been a struggle to get parts from the Perkins Group here, but other Non OM supplies seem to be holding out well, a 6354 motor is or has been about the most common engine in this size range across the Globe, with parts made for it on all points of the compass, moving on some to show my struggle with a I.H. TD15C Dozer engine, it's fitted with the DT466 unit with the American Bosch injector pump (Rotary) well anyhow the engine coughed a few times then stopped running, I worked out the pump had failed? it turns out this type of pump in the U.K. is not supported in any injection pump shop after sending it to a few big pump shops and having it sent back with a tag "No Chance", so in the end I had to have it sent to the top end of the U.S. to get a rebuild carried out, all this takes up many weeks lots of them hunting around in the U.K. at the moment the rebuilt pump sits 20 miles from my home in a postal Depot awaiting Duty clearance, so I am nearly sorted but it's been a long 5 months, sometimes the struggle seems to never end. tctractors
When I ordered an alternator online it required a document with country if origin from the supplier. Thankfully it must have been assembled in the US. I think the duty was $25 but if it originated in another country (like China) the duty was $75 if I recall. The free trade between Can. and the US is kind of a joke.
TC.. funny u should say that.. I worked at AMBAC for a handful of years.. (American Bosch)
Is this type of pump still commonly found and supported in the U.S. I will tell you the cost of the rebuilt pump including freight charges is up now around the £2'450 spot, after the Duty is sorted it's going to be an avoid at any cost job for myself, I have been helped greatly by a U.K. based Tractor Importer who has really put effort into helping me out. tctractors
Is it a PSU, a PSB or a Mdl. 100.??
Sounds kinda like my situation. Drive motor for a Bobcat T770 is made by Rexroth, but only for Bobcat. The seal that separates the brake end from the motor end is non-existent. I mean NONE. Bobcat claims that they're hoping 30 WEEKS. Someone might have their head fitted into that hole pretty soon. We have no idea what to do.
That's pretty bad Bobcat doesn't have the seal anywhere in their parts network. People are always advised to buy popular name brand machines but nowadays even the name brands can be terrible for parts back up. I bought a drive motor from Loader Parts Source and I guess I'm lucky it didn't have any issues. The OEM motor is made by Eaton/Char Lynn but in addition to costing at least $800 more would have been up to a year to get. The Eaton distributor said it's just brutal getting some items even if they aren't special one off items. It would have cost $280 to disassemble and inspect the old motor but they said the big majority are toast and would cost even more than a new motor to repair. I had the other side motor replaced previously with an Eaton but it was only $1500 at the time. I figured maybe the other side was due so why waste money tearing it apart. The OEM motor was over $3000. I sure wasn't expecting it to be more than double than what I paid a few years earlier. Sometimes you're stuck though and have no other options. With all the fancy electronics and stuff in new machines it's too bad they couldn't tell you when certain components are getting weak or need preventative msintainance. Some components they do but not all of them. With hyd's. you can change filters and fluid by the book and still have them go bad with little or no notice.
On the Perkins, anyone called Cat? Seems Cat bought Perk out, are now Perkipillars.
Anything 25 years and older expect a real tough time. Cummins has pretty much stopped supporting the old 885 engines except for a few major parts.
Perkins has/had their own dealer network. But Cat would have been on my list to call. They helped me immensely with a starter for some Mitsubishi. It would have taken ages to get from Mitsu corporate but Cat had one in stock under the same part number.
I wonder if Agco/** dealers would have better parts support for Perkins.
Shimmy, Seals can be made if you're really stuck. 7 months sounds like stuck & suck too. https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffsb&q=custom+oil+seals&ia=web Joe H https://ahpseals.com/oil-seals/ These guys say 3 days they can make one if you're in a rush. What's your seal look like and what's it sealing? Just crankcase engine oil?
The seal Shimmy needs is for drive motor.
This stupid thing.
Looks like a standard seal to me, anything high tech about it? It's a seal and they make seals. Pick up the phone and see what they say. Or wait 30 weeks. Joe H
It's not always that easy.
I don't know if it's easy or no, but looks like a grease seal with a bearing race inside. One way to find out? Joe H
Thanks for the link, Joe. I'll have ask some questions, I'm not sure what kind of pressure this seal holds inside the motor. It looks like if it's more than 7 psi their seals will not work. The bearings are lubricated by hydraulic oil from the drive motor, this seal separates that oil from the Bobcat drivetrain oil that is in the brake housing. I'll call them tomorrow and see what they say. Another thing that might be a problem is this seal is proprietary to this application for Bobcat.
@thepumpguysc hope you're sorted, I have had a few states customers now, and most have paid credit card over the phone and a couple of bank transfers, we use either TNT ( now FedEx ) or DHL and they handle everything, you will have import duty's to pay but the courier company will let you know what that is. Over a certain cost ( I can't remember what it is ) the supply company from the UK will also need a tax/vat number from the customer.
Shimmy it holds case pressure. Should be less than 30 or so PSI . You need OD, ID, and thickness. Look at Harwell Seals. They have lots of metric sizes with rubber coated outer metal cases
Do you have a Rexroth name plate
I ordered my parts on Monday w a cc over the phone.. Funny thing is.. everything was listed in Euros.. but they demanded payment in pound sterling.. So I had to convert euros to pound sterling, then p sterling to dollars.. What a mess.. ANY WAY, parts ordered on Monday and received on Thursday, FROM ENGLAND.!!
Wow, that was fast!
No flies on us fella......... It's amazing how internation air freight works these days. Glad you got it sorted.
I did get the tips BUT they won’t fit the injector.. the wrong size pins and the feed hole is off-set.. What a cluster ....! Once I found this out, I contacted the co I bought them from, asking if I could send them back and if they have a re-stocking fee.. no answer.. lol
I have been talking to my local Perkins rep about other things since this thread started. What was the problem with your order? Wrong serial number or wrong part number or wrong part shipped or what?
I ordered the wrong part #..
Let me know specifics if you want me to try on this coast.
I hate to say it and has left me w several sleepless night, but I had to throw in the towel.. I got all but 1 injector to work correctly.. I ate the cost and returned them to the customer..1 hr labor and 20.00 frt.. I’ll betcha I have 2-3 day and a few long distance phone calls, not to mention the 330.00 snafu.. Oh well, sometimes you win, sometimes you lose..
HEY! NO throwing in the towel on HEF!!
I’m sick about it.!!! MANY sleepless nights.. THIS doesn’t happen to “the pump guy”.. I just realized, I’m the pump guy, not the friggin “injector guy”.!! Lol
I'm starting to get calls from old clients about frauds being perpetrated over the internet. Fancy web sites pop up with a bunch of photos of products, big promises and lots of email, money sent and then all goes silent. Be careful out there, lots of black holes to fall into now.
I guess it is a good time to get in the parts scamming business, lots of customers desperate for parts that nobody can supply, probably even get full price for the nonexistent part nowadays, before disappearing.
I've yet to find anything worth going to prison for, not sure where my $ limit is but I hope to never know. Joe H
When thinking about buying from any website. The things to look for are a phone number and an address. Something I was going to buy about 1 year ago had none of those, I emailed for a phone number because I do not send a card number into a black hole of mystery, I only use a telephone to do such transactions. They never even answered the email. No brain power used figuring out that was a scam. If you think a deal is too good to be true, very likely that first thought is right on the money.
If you go to ---> https://www.whois.com/ and type in the domain name it will tell you who it is and when it was registered. Sites that have been in business for a week or two might be kinda suspect. Joe H