I need to remove this bolt:
While I can’t identify exact size that’s a tamper proof 5 star torx or sometimes called pentalobe, TS40 maybe?
TorX security bit.? Just have to determine the size. I think TS40 might be a bit on the big side. How about this set on Amazon .?
I believe it is a 5 point Tamper proof. That is what I see. I have some for fuel injection pumps of various sizes. Got mine from Snap On, pretty pricey but do the job. Simon C
Just pry the center pin broken and use a torx bit. Next time it would be esier
You can get the whole set of security bits here... https://www.harborfreight.com/Security-Bit-Set-with-Case-100-Piece-68457.html?event_id=184596&hftm_sc=875&hftm_source=google
Unless it's in an awkward spot for access, you don't actually need to disconnect the plug to unpin it. Using the correct tool you can remove the wires in-situ.
That was going to be my next question!!! Do you have a part number for that bad boy? Never mind. It's a Deutsch 0411-336-1605 removal tool. I just ordered a whole darn kit of pins, connectors, crimper, and extractor. Man I love this Heavy Equipment Forum. You people are great.
The one time over priced snap on is the place to go. Or maybe amazon? Count the points its not a normal torx.
Don't forget to order something to deal with the rodents that did all that damage.
They sell them at home Depot, if you were in a hurry but Amazon would be my go to, we use them on playground bolts. Never off the snap on truck lol
You should buy a few extractors. They're kind of fragile and need a bit of practice. You'll probably break a couple as you get used to how they work.
The way electronics has infiltrated everything and how wonderful it ages. One of these is about the tool they deserve.
I agree with you.
The five point star bit is a pentalobe or is also lazily referred to as a 5-point torx. Either way they suck and true pentalobe security bits are best purchased online through Amazon or such. I've looked at Home Depot, Lowes, Northern, Tractor Supply, Harbor Freight, etc. and have never seen them in stock. Maybe your stores are different but I had to order mine online. Like @Simon C , I have a couple sets of these because Stanadyne uses them on their DB2 pumps in the military. I just remove those screws and replace with standard allen-head cap screws.
There are a few videos on YouTube that give tips on how best to use them. I agree with Cmark, there is a skill to using those extractors successfully.
Well that didn’t work. I think either I have the wrong extractor tool or the fact that the connector is still mated is making it hard to extract the pin. Is the brain trust here sure the #16 contact extractor is correct in this case? The connector is labeled as a DRB12-102P-L018. I practiced on another harness and I got pretty fast at extracting contacts. That harness had connectors that were DT series.
I never had much luck extracting terminals from connectors without the connector being unplugged first.
What exactly is the problem? There are a few different sizes of extractor but the light blue one is usually fairly universal with a bit of perseverance.
See the photo attached to the OP. As I understand it he has some rodent-damaged wires right next to the connector and wants to unpin them for repair. See also this thread - HeavyEquipmentForums
I believe the problem is I didn’t have the right security bit yet to disconnect the connector before trying to remove the pin. I only get weekends to work on things. Couldn’t let the weekend go by without at least tying. I have the right bit now. It will be two weeks before I can take another crack at it. I’m sure I can get the pin out once I have the connector separated. Also if you look at the picture, you’ll see there isn’t much wire to grab and pull on. With the connector separated I can push from the other side.
There is a “technique” for using the extractor tool. Basically what you are attempting to do is lift two “fingers/hooks” inside the connector to free the socket and allow it to be pulled out of the connector. As I think I mentioned before there are videos on YT showing the process. You really should take a look at them but here are my tips. 1. Push the wire into the connector as far as it will go, which is not much, but it should free up the two fingers inside the connector a tad and make it easier to insert the extractor tool. You may have to move the wire slightly in and out of the connector to find the sweet spot for relieving pressure on the fingers. 2. Under no circumstances attempt to rotate the extractor tool while attempting to free a wire. It WILL break. If the socket is not releasing from the connector, remove the tool and rotate it by 90 degrees then try inserting it again. Patience is the order of the day.
Thanks for the tips Nige. I practiced for about 30 minutes on an old harness I removed previously. It does take some “feel” but I got to the point where I could extract the pin each time on the first go. I didn’t push the wire in first, but I’m betting that is a great tip. One question I have is why use the plastic version of the tool. I have both the plastic one and the metal one. The metal one seems way easier to me. I broke a couple of the plastic ones before I had it figured out. Seems like the metal one is a more durable solution. Am I missing something?
I actually meant what's the problem you're having unpinning the connector. As Nige wrote, push the wire in first and go gently. You may also find a little silicone spray lube helpful. Long nose pliers to grab the stumpy wires. I reiterate that unpinning it while connected should not be any problem. The metal tool is ok but the plastic fingers inside the connector can be damaged. Better to damage a tool that write off a connector, IMO.
Well I guess the only “problem” I have is the wires will not pull out! Not sure what other problems there might be haha. The tools insert fine although I didn’t try to push the wires in while inserting the tool. Perhaps having the connector mated is making it difficult to push the pin any deeper. When I get back onsite I’m going to un-mate the connector. That should make things easier. I can also then push from the other side of the pin.
I thought the process for removing the male pins was slightly different than removing the female sockets? Isn't there a wedge lock holding the female sockets in place that needs to be removed before that socket can be extracted out the back? I don't think we confirmed if he's working on the pin or socket side of the connector...or did I miss it?
There is no wedge in a 70-pin connector. Only connectors up to 12 pins contain wedges, the larger ones don’t. They have the two previously-mentioned fingers inside each tube where a pin/socket is installed. In this particular case it is sockets that are being removed from the ECM connector, not pins. However if it was pins the removal procedure using the tool would still be exactly the same. Check out the video I linked above. I know it’s a circular connector not a rectangular one but the terminal removal procedure is the same.
Thanks, Nige. As you can tell, I've only had to repair the smaller connectors and never an ECM one. Let's hope it stays that way for a while....
This might make it clearer how the spring fingers work, and why it helps to just push the wire into the connector a hair in order to slightly loosen their grip on the retention shoulder of the terminal before attempting to insert the de-pinning tool.
Thd metal version can damage the fingers and the connector will no longer seat. Rh plastic does not have this issue
Finishing this thread. You can’t extract the pins on this connector while it’s mated. Even after de-mating you have to first remove the retaining piece.
Very interesting. Deutsch DRB series. There's nothing I can find in SIS that mentions them, although the part numbers are there. Thanks for the update.