I am getting ready to template and fabricate new floor plates for my Cat 426. The original plates are so rotted and were not the original plate. I can't really tell what thickness they were. I am thinking 1/8"? I don't want them bending when I stand on them but I also don't want them so heavy it takes two people to left them. What do you guys suggest? Thanks!
1/8” will be fine.
Could go Gauge Material, 12 ga would be enough
I used a piece of 1/8 from the local farm scrap yard in 580C and it worked great. Plenty of support and doesn't weigh a whole lot when installing or heaven forbid taking it out again. I did a one piece design, if it ever has to come out again it'll be modified to a 2 piece design for ease of installation.
Thanks guys.
Cardboard templates will enable you to make perfect fitment of the steel.
I actually use poster board. I find it is easier to get accurate results. I buy it at Dollar General. When I cut out and replaced all the rust I mocked it up in poster board. Then I came home and cut everything out. Fit like a glove. Headed out shortly. A little chilly but sunny. I rather work in 40 degree weather than 90.
12 gauge is probably enough. In sheet metal I don't think there is a true 1/8". I have some 11 gauge I use that is close. Sheet Metal Gauge Chart | Metal Supermarkets If you are unfamiliar with the gauge system, this blog will explain the gauge system and includes a sheet metal gauge chart. www.metalsupermarkets.com
I checked my garage. I have 2 pieces of steel. I did not measure it with a caliper or micrometer but I used my thickness gauge. It fits the 1/8" slot but not the 11ga slot. Either way for my needs whether it is 11ga or 1/8" it will work. I made the templates today and will cut them out and drill holes tomorrow and get them primed and painted this weekend.
I recently cut out badly rusted sections of the cab floor on my 580se and welded in patches of 3/32 diamond plate I had laying around. It seemed an identical thickness. The floor has many supporting frame members and is bolted every 10” to adjacent parts so it’s all very rigid. My main thing was to get rid of the rubber floor mats that hold moisture and cause the steel to rust away.
If there is room underneath, a piece of angle (maybe 1/8" x 1.2 x 1.5) stich welded across the longest span will make it stronger. Keep the angle short from each end to fit in the opening, but just enough, and it will keep the plate from sliding off the hole if the bolts are gone.
After I ripped the yellow shag carpet, yes yellow shag carpet (previous owner) out of my C and replaced the floor,I installed a thin piece of textured conveyor belt over the steel, no residual moisture or rot and provides a half ass layer of insulation so the cold from the steel doesn't permeate through my boots during extended winter snow removal operations.
I got universal AG Tractor Floor Mat for the KW bunk tool boxes and the storage space just behind the cab, noise abatement, lightly cushioned and does not trap moisture.
I used 1/8” steel I had. Primed it and painted with 2 coats of yellow. Ready to be installed. The space it spans is not huge so I don’t think any reinforcement is needed.
Final coat of paint
Looks real good. Questions: Is it Case brand paint ? How did you apply it brush , spray, roller? What did you thin it with ? What primer did you use? I use Case paint, 3” rollers, thin with a little acetone or naptha, prime with rust oleum rusty metal primer. Recently I’ve been using the rattle can 2k Clearcoat for a final hard protective layer .
@Birdseye My machine is a Cat 426. I used the Tractor Supply Caterpillar yellow paint. I sanded the metal with 180 grit to help with adhesion. I primed with Rust-O-Leum rusty metal primer because that is what I had on hand. Then 2 coats of yellow applied with a foam roller. Looks fine. There is some dust in the paint. I really don't care. I am not restoring this to show condition. Just getting rid of rust and making her usable. My goal is to have this machine usable and last me a while. I don't want people to look at it and think it is a POS. So making it presentable is one of my goals.
I used 3/8" plate on mine and it's held up great under tracked machines and heavy buckets. Any thinner and I noticed some flex, especially between supports.
Why not go 1/2"? STRANGER DANGER!!
I used 1/4" tread plate for a similar setup and it’s held up great moving tracked machines over it. If you’re including inspections or keeping records for builds like this, I’ve found using itp templates construction really helps organize the quality checks and keeps everything in line with what the client or inspector needs.
if its smooth enough you can get one of those double suction cup floor panel lifters when its time to get underneath.
Sure.