I have to replace the tensoiner, and the serpentine belt on my 580K phase 3. It looks like I'll have to remove the hyd. pump to put the belt on. I think that pulling the radiator to get to the pump, will be my best bet. Is this the best way, does anybody have any other techniques? Thanks.
You don't have to remove the pump or the radiator to put a new belt on. There should be a coupler connecting the pump to the front of the crankshaft. I can't exactly remember how it uncouples but then the collar should slide down the shaft far enough to slip the new belt. You can snake the belt around the fan one blade at a time. On your belt tension er there is a square hole for a flex handle or ratchet to fit in so you can loosen the belt and remove it. If a get a chance I'll look at ours to jog my memory but its a pretty simple process. If you have any trouble let me know. I'll see if I can help.
Thanks Lashlander. I seen the coupler you are talking about. To be honest, I wasn't sure how far it could be slid down the shaft. But, I'll try that first.
Yep, just did a 580L about 3 months ago. Uncoupled the pump, slid the coupling back just enough to force the belt thru the crack. It was tight, and a pain in the rear, but it worked. Unbolting the coupling and getting the belt by the coupling was the hardest part of the whole process. Looping over the fan and changing the tensioner was the easy parts.
That front mount enshrouds that shaft pretty well, doesn't even look like there is much room to get a wrench in.
There is more than enough room to do as the other men advised you to do. Just in case the coupler is rusted to the shaft I would have the unit near an air compressor, I have had some rusted so that they would not move after the bolts were removed. A good air chisel with a blunt punch tool in the coupler and a can of P B Blaster had the coupler sliding back and forth after a couple of "shock treatments". Just put the tool down against the coupler straight and hammer it to let the PB penetrate and the rust to break up. At the shop I have a special tool I made to hold the engine from turning while I am loosening the coupler bolts. Take a piece of 3/16 X 1" flat steel, cut a piece about 10" long and grind the one end till it will slip down in the space between the coupler and the front pulley about 3" long, you can use that to hold the engine as you loosen bolts, and reinstall them. Mel
Thanks Melben, I'll try that as well.
I heard of guys zip tieing a second belt out of the way that way they dont have to go through as much trouble or if the belt lets go on a job it's easier to get up and going again.
Well, I did it, it took about 2 hours, but its done. First, I tried to do it with everything in place. After trying for about 10 minutes to just get my arm in there, I just said the heck with it, and unbolted the radiator. I drained the fluid, unclamped the hoses, and tilted the radiator forward enough to remove the shroud and the fan. Than, I had all kinds of room. The bolts weren't on super tight, and the coupler slid back easily with the help of a screw driver. Than, I just put everything back together. It really didn't take that long at all. And, the cooling system got a long overdue flush. Thanks everybody for the help.