I have a friend that has a 1998 Volvo tractor his right front wheel bearing is getting so hot it melted the alum. housing and rubber plug on the center of the axle. Even the alum rim gets hot,so he had new bearings put in and it still is running hot. I questioned the tork on the bearing when tightened and also if the brake shoe was dragging but felt you should beable to smell the linings if that was the case. Any other ideas ?
Did they put oil in it? Those are oil bath hubs, that is why they have a rubber plug in the middle of the cap.
Yep there was and still is oil in there
S cam brakes? Self adjusting slack adjusters? If so, when you jack wheel off ground, does the wheel turn free or is there brake drag?
hot wheel First thing, he needs to replace the bearings, races and seal with new ones. Im wondering if someone put the wrong bearings in the hub. I would either get the hub number and get the correct bearings, or pull the other side off and get the bearing numbers (they usually are the same) Before you remove the tire and hub, shake the tire and see if there is any loose motion in the bearings. I have seen people install new bearings, with the wrong races (that doesnt work) I have never torqued a axle nut with a torque wrench, I usually just tighten tight and then back off to the next locking tab, then make sure the hub turns OK. I do pack my wheel bearings with grease before installing them. If the hub was run hot, it may have damaged it. The races could be turning in the hub OK do this 1. check for loose play in hub, has anyone installed the wrong hub 2. check for worn race seats 3. check for correct bearings and races 4. install new bearings, races and seal 5. do not over tighten the axle nut, but tighten it 6. use proper oil in hub (usually 90W or equivalent) You cant just do part of it, so you have to start all over with new parts keep us posted
Checked for end play and that is ok. The dealer said it had the wrong bearings and put different ones in but it still heats up. So I told him to try a new slack adjuster on the bracke plus pull the other side off and check the numbers on the bearing race. Thanks for the ideas, I believe he is going to try the slack adjuster first thats a easy try.
Been There Done That with bearings on Volvo. Front wheel bearings 3782/3720 and 212049x/212011 that little x must be there. the212049 has a different taper inside and does not fit properly. This may not be the problem now if wrong bearing was installed and run. You may now need to change spindle.
As it turns out putting the wrong bearings in the first time they must of spun or something on the spindle so now there changing the spindle and even changing bearings again. Felt it wasn't worth trying to reuse the second set.
1Hey Autocar, the race # is the same for the two inner bearing #'s I gave you, the inner bearing spindle hole has a different taper and will only just start on the flat surface. It wont pull all the way up. that will warp the inner part of the bearing making it distorted and getting real loose real quick. then everything runs at an angle. My other handle is Volvo 1
Ok thanks alot for the info ,sounded to me they have it figured out. Thanks again
wheel bearing Did we get it fixed?
Yes I talked to his mother this afternoon and they replaced the spindle and new bearings at that did the trick. Thanks for all the info about it .