Need to replace the wheel nuts on my own pick up. They are the typical Ford chrome cap junk that start to swell until you can't get a socket on them. Dealer price is crazy, as is tire shops. Someone told me to check amazon, and it is way cheaper. Probably junk, but most are lug nut guys. Anyone deal with them? Good or bad luck?
Usually can find sets for $20-30.
Ford wants over $200 for 24 of them. I know an F350 at work has the ones that hold the wheel centers on, and they were over $500, as you can imagine, that truck no longer has centers. Amazon has the ones from the lug nut guys anywhere from $40 to $150
I watch pole barn garage on you tube, he loves the lug nut guys, get it from their website use this code for a little off Lug Nut Guys https://lugnutguys.com USE CODE: PBG
Thoughtful of you to post supplier and sale code. So many folks on this website that have helped me and others. Keep up good work. Simon C
Just replaced the lug nuts on my pickup. Got them from eBay. Fraction of the cost vs the dealer
Vetech had some buts I mean nut's go bad didn't he?
Cuttin Edge has swollen nuts. I tell ya. What a pain. Anti-seize or no anti-seize ? Torque stick or torque wrench? Two ugga-duggas or three ugga-duggus ?
All problems we didn't have in the good old days. But then nuts were nuts not chrome goodies.
Good ol days you guys where loosing hub caps
Horrible what Ford & Chrysler did with their crappy nut design. People can’t change flats along the road. Shops have to charge more time, just to get the damn wheels off. Extra expense to purchase proper wheel nuts.
Just bought a set for my Jeep JK off Amazon as they were coming apart. Nice heavy chrome, good reviews, 20 bucks.
You can take them to the grinder and carefully remove the outer "skin".
Those nuts with the skins are not designed to be used with an air/impact wrench . Ya, i know—just saying
Bought a set for p/u online bout 5 years ago, just lost first outer "stainless" cover, problem is actual nut isn't stainless. Those things last forever in warmer regions, as soon as you enter the dreaded salt zone all bets are off. Nuts corrode, expand and split the covers, but they're shiny for the first couple of years.
So only two ugga-duggas with the imoact? Is that what you are saying?
Tighten it until it loosens and then back it off a half turn.
Those nuts are the most **** poor design I have ever seen. Whatever engineer thought putting an aluminum skin over a steel lug nut was a good idea needs to learn about galvanic corrosion. I just bought solid steel chromed ones from Napa for mine after an angry call to my local dealer about it. Have had them on my truck for 6 years without any issue. The chrome's flaking off so I clean off the rust that forms every now and then.
Ford's alloy wheels suck too. They corrode solid to the hub. Every fall when I go to put my winters on I have to beat the tires with a sledge to get them to come off the hub. Never had that issue with any of my Chevs with alloy wheels.
Chevys you can over torque the nut and break the rim, and then it comes off the hub too easy. Least with Ford's after a bit you don't even need the lug nuts anymore
I have never used an impact. I actually just use the Ford wheel wrench. However, I bought 4 new tires at one point, and I'm going to guess they used an impact, because shortly after, it started. Plan is to get 24 chrome, and 24 zinc coated for winter
My old chev truck has stuck the aluminum rims to the hubs too. After i get them off, i run a flap wheel on a die grinder around the pilot bore and then wipe a thin coat of antisieze around the pilot bore. It helps somewhat. All thanks to the corrosive calcium put on our roads in the winter . This truck is down right now because one of the fuel lines has rusted out. GM wants over $500cad for a new set . I’m going to check the aftermarket. They look like a real miserable job to change
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