I need to do some rear brake work on my 75 Fiat Allis M65 grader. I’ve got the wheels removed but I’m struggling with removing the wheel weights. I’ve removed the axle castle nut and tried tapping the back side of the weight, but it ain’t budging. I see the two threaded holes adjacent to the axle for a 1 inch diameter bolt to be threaded in thinking it would apply back pressure against the hub and force the weight off. I’ve threaded in some bolts but I do not think I’m getting them in far enough to hit the hub. So now I’m stuck. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The holes are not to jack the hub off. They are there to attach a puller. Easy to make one yourself, length of strong flat or angle, drill holes for the 1”bolts. Place over the end of axle, screw bolts down and give the axle a whack.
Thanks Queensland, so I understand, am I striking the angle or the axle?
I assume this is the sort of thing you’re dealing with? I’ve never been near a 65 but I have had the hubs off our old M100 in the past. Whatever you make your puller with will have to fairly hefty, maybe 1” thick. Place it over the end of the axle and tighten the bolts down hard. If the hub doesn’t move, give it a little encouragement by hitting the puller, and thus the axle, inwards toward the grader. If there is enough room, it might pay to leave the nut on, but backed off a turn, so it doesn’t let go suddenly and land on your foot.
Queensland, this is exactly the set up I have. I’ve removed the tire and rim and am left with the wheel weight and hub. I’ve attached a pic of the wheel weight with 2 one inch bolts threaded in. Apologize for being a dense American, but I understand that I will get a piece of possibly 1 inch thick steel bar that extends beyond the width of the wheel weight, drill holes to slip over the 2 1 inch bolts, tighten the bolts and thus bar against the wheel weight and then hammer the bar in towards the axle? Seems I would hammer the bar outward? Thanks, Kelly
No, the puller only needs to extend past the bolts but not so far that it touches the hub. You don’t have a lot of room there but should be enough. You are essentially pulling on the hub and pushing on the axle.
If your bolts are too long or you run out of room you can pack it out like this.
Search for Galion 503 hub removal.
Ahhh, did you notice a flash of light towards the north as my light bulb finally came on? Thanks, I’ll post my results. P.S. repowerguy will do.
Sorry about the short answer, I was nursing a bad headache and all the typing wasn't happening.
Understand, I tried searching for your post but damn if I can find it...?
Darned if I know how to make a link, but look up Galion 503A brake issues by OP townlineterry. I've posted it in other threads too I believe, but told others to make the knocker in a frying pan shape so you can use a hammer to tighten and loosen the knocker. I'll post it again since the Advil has done it's job. Remove one of the axle nuts and weld a frying pan shaped plate to it at least 1/2" thick. Remove the washer also, and spin the nut/knocker back on reasonably tightly with a hammer, you want the plate to firmly contact the spindle end. Make sure you have a tire and wheel assembly mounted on THAT HUB sitting securely on the floor. Now jack up the opposite side so the tires are off the ground. Now take a 12# sledge hammer and hit the knocker hard and squarely. A few hits will jar it loose. Take off the knocker after you jack up the side you are taking off and there you go. Obviously a new nut will need to be purchased, but I always recommend replacing them after removing them anyway, Fastenal can order them for you if you can find someone there willing to take time and look for you.
That's how I did it too...used two grade 8 all thread and my homemade sleeve puller, and it crushed my washers...had to back up and use the extra thick flat washers...still had to use a little heat around the wheel weight at the shaft and I had all the torque I could put on it with the pulling bolts...when it broke free it shook the whole tractor. That's nearly fifty years since they've been off. The only reason mine is so long is because I didn't want to cut the all thread as I use them for other pullers. Used a 1" extension and socket for spacers. That wheel/tire combo is heavy so take care.
Thank you folks, I’ve only had this grader for a week so every day i learn something new. After the brake job, I need to find a 8.25-20 replacement tire...hard to locate.
They're still available in the chevron tread, but you have to find a good tire guy to track them down. I got some a couple of years ago, and there's a guy on youtube that got some a couple of months ago. Look up Diesel Creek on there about his Galion 503.
As far as I know, Specialty Tire Company makes the only bar lug 8.25x20 tire. They are using old molds bought from Goodyear. A good tire rep should be able to track some down for you, be prepared to pay $$$ though.
Yep,200$ per new, looking at CL and old farm truck rims and tires, many old grain trucks ran these.
Folks, when removing the wheel weight, I assume the hub key will just fall out?
Well, I learned the wheel weight and hub are one in the same
Dont you just hate it when that happens>
Can anyone familiar with doing a brake job on the M65 advise me on how thick the replacement brake shoe pad should be, i.e., 12 mm. I’m having the shoes relined. Thanks
Well I’m just taking a educated guess, but around 5/16” to 3/8” will be close. If needs be, measure the ID of the drum and the OD of the shoe backing with the adjuster retracted. I suppose you could compensate for a worn drum with a little thicker shoe lining. Did the knocker technique pop the hubs off, or did you use the puller route?
I think my shoes were about 5/16" or so. Another tip is to take a grinder and buff off the wear ridge on the drum to make it easier to put back together and to keep the new shoes from snagging it on the edge.
The knocker did the trick! Took a couple of whacks but they came off. One hub came off with the axle key still attached and the other had the key remaining on the axle. Any thoughts as to the best way to deal with these key “wedges”, i.e., remove them completely from the hub and axle and install them once the hub is on the axle or...?
Re brake liners...copy all, thanks
I’m not sure what type key it has, but I would take a sharp prick punch and raise the metal enough that it’s a tight fit in the axle.
Here’s what I’m dealing with, first shot shows the key/wedge in the hub, second in the axle
Myself, I would prefer it to be in the axle itself. It's supposed to bottom in the axle, and slide through the hub the small amount as it's tightened up. I would tap it out of the hub and put it into the slot on the axle when I go to put it together. Trying to drive it in after the hub is on the axle is the hard way with no benefit.
Agree, hard to get something wedged between the key and hub