Is their somewhere to buy remain hydraulic pumps and drive motors for a John deere?
I use B&B Enterprises for all of my hyd pumps, motors, and other hyd stuff. Their web site is http://www.callbb.com/ or you can call them at 1-800-255-7968 Trust me they may not be the cheapest you can find but I have used a lot of companies and they are the best I have used. Plus quotes are free so it wont hurt to call and talk to them. Also check out the web site for them. Some of the methods they are using down there is amazing. Ask for Doug or Frank and tell them Smitty told you to call them. Hopefully they wont charge you extra for talking to me. lol
Hey thanks I will give them a call. Surly cheaper than John deere.
They are definitely cheaper then Deere or any other OEM dealers. I was just meaning that there are places out there that will be cheaper. And I have used several of them places when quality was not an issue and price was a major issue like on a machine that was destined for a sale or one that gets run 25 hours a year. And even in those instances B&B will try their best to work with you and give you some good options. But when you want quality I don't think you will find another re builder that will be able to compete with them price wise for the quality that they provide. That and they are just an all around good group of people to deal with. Let me know what they tell you and if they can help you out.
I guess you will now agree buying a hydro dozer sight unseen is a bad idea. If your pumps or drive motors have put metal in the system your looking at a complete system teardown to clean and flush or your going to ruin your new pumps and motors when the trash in the system goes thru them. Your about to receive a expensive education.
Yes your right. Even if I would of looked at a dozer I would never know how to test it. But that is all behind me now so I have to deal with what I got. How will I know if I got metal in my oil? I think the dealer can send the oil away and test for that can't they? The dealer said that my left side is in great shape but the right is not good. He said you grade them with 15 being junk and my right side is a 14 when they did the test. He told me to just go home and run it until winter and then fix both the pump and the drive motor. What do you think about that advice? Do you think I can do more harm in the long run to the pump if I keep running it like this? Anyway today I talk to Doug at B&B and he got me to take the pumps off and that my drive motor is more and likely not bad and I need to check my pulleys on my radiator fan because even if the engine is not running hot the fan may not be turning fast enough to cool the oil and fry the O rings in the pumps. Thanks for the help
Spoken like a man that definitely knows his hydro machines!! I agree with motrack 100%
Mathew, There is no way I would continue to run any machine with damage already done to the hydro system. Like I tell all of my customers, When you have a problem and it is still runnable then continuing to run it will just cost you more money! I am not knocking the guy that told you to keep running it but a comment like that means to me that the more you spend on the repair the more he will make on the repair. On the metal in oil question. You can send a sample in to an oil lab and have it tested. That is one of the things I do quite often and I am a firm believer in taking oil samples. I think the info you can get from an oil sample is well worth the cost of the sample. On most machines I even recommend fluid sampling all major components at every major service to help find and track problems before they become a failure. I am not familiar with the problem you have right now so I am just guessing. But I bet that from the way you are talking that when you drain your hydro oil you will see shiny stuff in it. And like motrack was saying the fun part of this repair will be getting all of the crap out of the system. If you can give us some more info on your problem then I will try to be a little clearer on my answers and do my best to help you out with your problem. By the way how did you like dealing with Doug at B&B? Did he help you out?
I have to agree 100% with motrak as well. Not to be too harsh but since you saved the money on sampling before you purchased the machine maybe spend it now to monitor the systems the entire time you own the machine, it'll be money well spent over the course of time that you own the machine. Systems caught in the early stages of wear cost way less to have rebuilt than those that have failed or so bad total failure is just around the corner. And if your about to update machines anyhow it helps make the decision to trade all that much easier and let the next unprepared buyer figure out why you traded it off or sold it, or gives you time to line up the money for a rebuild of the worn components along with a more more scheduled time to allot for the downtime of that machine.
Smitty talking to B&B on the phone was good help. I have both pumps off and am going to call him this morning and ask him how I am suppose to get them to him. He talked like just doing the pumps would fix my problem and that the drive motors are bullet prove. I can't see that if I would of bought a $65000 machine with 9000hours on it that I could not have the same problem. I paid $30000 for this machine and yes I may have $65000 in it when I am done but I will know what I have and I do not see how when I am doing all the labor and I have B&B helping me now and I should have a good machine. But I have been wrong before. The all does look as clean as can be so maybe that is a good thing.
I cut my teeth on Deere hydro dozers and until recently was repairing New Holland Hydro dozers. I think you were given some bad advice about still operating the machine. I would pull a oil sample plus I would remove the system filters and cut them open........... if there is any metal in the system your going to see it. This would decide your next course of action.
One of the biggest problems with hydro dozers is no one will do the needed PM service. Hydro filters changed at 1000 hrs and fluid/filter changes at 2000 hrs. Once the filter becomes restricted and the bypass opens its all down hill from there. I saw many NH dozers that at 3000 hrs had the hydro system trashed out and still running the factory installed filter.
What do you mean cut your teeth? I got the pumps off and they should be at B&B Monday. Doug really stresses the oil filter thing that I need so many micron filter and that he could help me get the right filters. I told him I gust bought some from John Deere and have yet to put them on and they cost me a $150 a piece. He said his best filter only cost $70. Motrack do you work for a dealer or yourself?
We pull oil samples on the hydraulics at every engine oil change, that way we can monitor they hydraulics, hydros if they are separate and other systems as well to make sure nothing is going on that would cause problems and we can catch them early if there is something going wrong. We base our drain intervals on how the samples look, the biggest problem we have had is from condensation contaminating the oil and causing wear that way. We also change filters on hydraulic, hydros every year even if we don't get enough hours on the oil we do it anyhow and cut them apart to see what's inside them thats obvious for wear metals. After its back together I'd flush the oil and change the filters several times to make sure you got all the metal out of the system again, you could go as far as to put the oil through a filter cart as you run the machine to help clean it up and catch problem flakes of wear metal and get it out of the system completely. As far as anything being bullet proof..... if it involves hydro's, hydraulics, oil and wear metals or failed components in the system I'd opt for caution and have them pulled and inspected, remember if they are right it'll only cost the labor and gaskets to check it over, no parts will be needed and it'll be the cheapest insurance you can get.
Test Good luck