Almost every seal on the 580 has been leaking ever since I bought it. Well I was moving a snow pile and I lost my boom swing only when swinging to the left. So during the very late part of winter I will be tearing the machine down to rebuild all cylinders. I have noticed when using the hoe....let's say I'm operating the bucket it will want to swing or I will get a little boom or dripper movement. Tell me what I should look out for. Ext ext
I would first go threw the backhoe valve and remove the circuit relief upper and lower on each spool one at a time and pull out the load check plug, spring and poppet. On the plug it will have a backup and o-ring to replace. It is a simple job and it can be done in a few hours, clean the area of the control valve, let the pressure off the system by moving your levers, unscrew the relief valve out, reach in the bore and pull the load check plug up, remove old backup/O-rings , install new and install back in the valve, install a new o-ring on the relief and lower o-ring/backup, reinstall and go to the next one. (note the O-rings need to come from Case) this will help some of the backhoe issues. There is a tool made out of a bolt head that can be used to pull the check plugs if needed. The swing could be a stinger issue or packing/loose piston. There is some posts on here to the load check plugs doing o-ring replacements, also do not service the reliefs unless you have the means to reset the pressures.
What do you mean by resetting the pressure?
On the relief valves on the backhoe control valve, you can replace the lower and top seal O-rings while you have them out doing the load checks. If you disassemble the relief itself the adjustment for the pressure may/will need to be rechecked. To recheck the relief a test block is used to screw the relief into and the nut and screw is loosened, a portable hand pump is used to pump the relief to its spec pressure by turning the screw until in spec, then tighten the locknut back. This can also be done using the hand pump hooked into the hyd port/line on that relief (like bucket out) you would pump the hand pump watching it's pressure gauge. Say you needed 2500psi on that relief, you pump away and only have 2200psi, you would turn the adjusting screw in until the pressure would build to 2500psi. It is important to put the relief back in the same port, poor machine operation, heating of oil, lack of lifting pressure/holding pressure, bent rods, tubes, blown hoses are just some of the issues you can cause.
Good information here......I am about to remove this ole puppy and give it a try:
I just started tearing the cylinders off the machine to repack them. Not going to be as easy as I thought. I have a 1500 foot pounds torque wrench and a 43" long 1" drive breaker bar on its way. Anyone have any advise for me?
utahjd1......Do you have the special wrenches used to remove the end of the hydraulic cylinder (the gland)? Often good to leave the cylinder hooked on one end so you can apply the torque you need to unscrew the end.
These work very well. http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Adjustabl...d=1431514145&sr=8-1&keywords=otc+gland+wrench
I have a gland wrench
Yea, be sure to eat your Wheaties before breaking the piston bolts loose. Mine took all the strength I had, and I still had to slip a pipe over the breaker bar for extra leverage.
Bought a few new tools for this project. A 1" drive snap on 1500 ft/pd torque bar. Also have a bunch of 1" drive sockets on the way. Almost 7' feet of bar
Low budget torque wrench:
I'm 90% done with the cylinders should be done tonight then I'm going to degrease the whole machine and get it ready for paint. I'm going to prime with rust bullet and spray on cat yellow. Yes I know the color was suppose to be power yellow but I couldn't be the price for the cat yellow
Finally got the new rubber on only took me 6 months to get to it granted I did put one side on 5 months ago haha