Looking at these two brands of winchs and mounting it on D6R,H.Both are late model winchs.What size cable and how long can you use in one.Thinking 3/4 to 7/8 is max i will need for what i want to do.Can you get 100+ ft on one.More would be better for me. I see the spec for the pa56 was 60,000 pound pull.Also low speed is mentioned.So how many feet per minute will it move at max pull. Is one or the other faster then the other.I see the pa56 is electric operated.Allied looked to be cables.
I have 2 6R's one has the PA56 the other has a W6G allied, both seem to be good winches, I prefer the feel of the 56, we use 1"1/8 cable I think that each has about 150' of cable on each so if you are using 7/8" surely they will handle close to 200'. As far as speed they seem to be about the same, as far as feet per minute Im sure would depend on the amount of resistance the load you are pulling presents, Our winches run off pto from the transmission so the more weight you're pulling the more the torque converter slips I assume What application are you using the winch for??
construct'o did you go thru the cat performance handbook for those numbers? My 38th edition doent cover the r&h model tractors.
Yea i looked in the hand book and got quite a bit of my answers.Also talked to my Cat mechanic and got some ideas. My thought is to winch one machine up ,to pull another machine threw muddy areas.Get one machine on good footing winch then if first machine is able just pull the other.Tiling operation. Handbook says more footage of cable ,but i don't see it it.It said up to 250 plus feet with .88 cable.Hard to believe,doesn't look like that much room on the drum for that footage? sounds good tho.I'm looking for one with the side roller and inside up and down to guide the cable.Will be winching and pulling around slight corners. I was wondering about parts and service for both winches.What goes wrong with them most often.Looks to be not to much to them,gears and bearing i'm guessing.Cable wear and tear the most problem.Figure Pa 56 ,my Cat dealer should be able to handle them. Mechanic said they have screen(filter) to check for metal.They looked to hold quite a bit of oil also for there size by the handbook. Have a winch on my trencher and i change oil in it every so often.
Are you talking of buying a winch to fit an existing tractor? If so how much are they hitting you for, if you don't mind. I've always bought used and have not had too many problems on the 3 tractors that I've bought.
Newer style for D6R used anywhere fron 15K to 22.Pa 56 is the simplest to use and get.Just take plate off back of trans and mount on the drawbar and ripper bolt holes .They use a electric computer and handle to operate.Allied looked to have control cables. Mechanic did say that the computer box and handle is close to 5K,so get them with the winch.He had to replace one this summer that dozer got hit by lighting and took out the winch computer and controller.Insurance covered it luckly.Said that he thought the winch has a seal where it mounts to the transmission rear shaft.
for the life of me I cannot see the need or reason for any computer in a winch. :beatsme All they need is a control cable from the handlever to the hydraulic valve. Both winches have suction screens and filters and accumulators in them and need the maunufacturers correct oil in them. The accumulators are often overlooked, but are very important as they are what provide the oil pressure when the pto shaft stalls. The W6G is the updated improved version of the W6F which has been around since at least 1975. W6F will hold 295 feet of 7/8 rope, but this is with a perfectly wound drum of rope, and this all depends on the man in the seat. So will handle 200 easily and this allows for it bunching up on one side of the drum if your not perfectly aligned when winching.
We haven't had many problems at all with either winch, although we did have to replace the electronic controller on the allied winch this summer about a $2500 repair. Be sure to find a winch that already has a set of fairleads(rollers) on it already neither one of the tractors I own came with them and when pricing them through local Cat dealer they wanted close to $6000 for a set, we had a local machine shop build them for half that.
I agree with Merv. The computer controlled winches have lost the ability to "feather" the controls to allow for a smoothe transition when winching.
So do you mean it's like it's on or off no feathering the speed?How does the free spool work just push a button to freespool and what issues have you had with that ? As far as shorter cable length that is the way i will go.To long is a pain when your trying to freespool it anf it is tangled all up.Have that issue when to long on the trencher.They never spool back on like when new or replaced.They always get more or less on one side or the other. Book side speed for standard winch was a little over 100 feet a mintue and about double that when to the end,which makes sense as the spool will be bigger around with cable toward end or half way.Also looking for the standard,not a slow speed winch. Cyclone are you running the slow speed or standard? What i have found is way cheaper just to buy a dozer and they through in the winch ,pretty much,by the prices i have found.Just don't need another machine right now. What about the accumulator Merv mentioned do you have that on yours? Thanks for the help everyone.
freespool is just a big dog clutch on the drum pinion gear. Its GOT to be either in or out, never ever partially enganged. Freespool is only for the operator to drag rope out by himself manually. Use the brake off to walk the machine away from a load. The standard speed hyster/allied are about 100fpm on a bare drum, double that for a full drum. for winching I always fully engage winch clutchs and do the inching with the torque converter via the decelerator, no different to easing the dozer into a solid object. The accumulators are either gas or spring charged oil canisters that allow you to engage clutchs or release the brake when the pto isn,t turning. All these later winches have the pump mounted internally driven off the pto shaft so need them. Even with engine stopped you should be able to push control lever into brake off position and brake will release and pressure should show on the winch gauge; W6F/G. It tells you all this in the operators manuel; Same for Carco/paccar winch.
for winch spec sheets you can download Allied/Hyster, or the Carco/Paccar one from there respective web sites
construct'o, ditto on being able to buy used machines with winches for nearly the same money as one without. Of the three crawlers I've bought, all had attachments, and they all have came in handy, sometimes very handy. My current one, an ih td15c, I paid less for that your looking at paying for just a winch, in fact I think I could hook you up with a nice older winch tractor for somewhere in the high 20's maybe low to mid 30's.
Definitely a better choice to buy a machine w/winch already on it price wise Both winches I have are slow speed as far as I know As far as the feathering comment yes Either in or out , in our application (oilfield) we are assisting trucks lift or lower heavy loads so stalling the winch/ trans by leaving the machine in gear is not an option. As far as pulling other machines/trucks thru heavy mud it doesn't make that much of a difference