Looking at getting a tri or quad axle dump truck they all have 500k or more miles price range from 30-60k need opinions on witch motor is the most reliable and the easiest/cheapest to fix.. The big cam 400 The 3406 it didn't have the E on the end. Or the c12. Any help would be great it's getting to spring and I'd like to get this business up and running.im not worried about speed or none of that just reliable.everything I'm looking at has no emissions or def.hell with that junk it's just another headache
"Witch" engine? Probably the broom- powered engine. . I know, some days I am just a smart ***.
Totally inappropriate response to what was obviously good natured ribbing. Attention is called to the Forum Rules, particularly: No profanity or vulgar language will be permitted. Some words have been automatically censored by the message board program, any attempt to fool the censor program by misspelling or otherwise disguising words which have been censored will be considered an attempt to post the original censored word. Please use the same polite language you would in speaking with a customer. And: Personal attacks of any kind on other members will not be tolerated. While disagreements in opinions and procedures may arise, they must be handled in a mature manner. No further warning will be given. ~Digger242j
Anything Pre T3 or 4 will be High Miles and likely due for full rebuild. Get into the T3&4 engines then a NEW can of worms with Emissions components and indeterminate time lines between fails, more engine wear/time in service and worse likely to Fault fail on sensors or Cartridges in Emissions systems.
Some of us on here are old hecklers just joking, Mowingman was just joking that's all. Don't tell him to eat ****. Others on here will say the same.
Yes we will
Another issue been tagged a few times on here is the Older engines parts become a Issue. Some manufacturers are discontinuing model line parts supplies so they become a pays your money takes your chances game. Pre BC II Cummins are scarce in inventories, Detroit Two Stroke pieces are almost all Second rate aftermarket. Even the Cat pre E engine parts get really hard to come by for certain models.
LOL! Why do I always miss the good stuff?
Most reliable engine.....Detroit 6-71 TI. Now sitting back with my popcorn and a Coke...
12.7 dd.
Yamaha XS650, abused one for 15 to 20 years riding 1 mile one way to work year round and at the most changed oil half a dozen times! Now if talking Diesels how about a K19 Cummins? There is one in a Komatsu WA600 that was new in October 1996 and last I talked to the current mechanic at the quarry it is still running, machine is semiretired but still used semi-regularly when needed when another machine is down for service or repairs. Only major work to that engine while I was there was when it broke a valve spring in 2012 at just short of 24,000 hours. Pulled the heads and had them rebuilt and reassembled as injectors had 12,000 hours on them they were rebuilt at that time.
A grain company we did outside work for had a 98 KW T800 {6TS 3406 with 37,000 hrs and 1 million on it}. It ran for another year before a ELECTRICAL fire burned it to the ground. Plus that engine only lost one cam position sensor, the ecm and all other sensors were original along with injectors. Original main and rod bearings. adjusted the valves twice. Born under a lucky star. Pulled 105,500 every day. There are countless 12.7 liters that have well over a million miles with original head gasket.
Gas engine----------When I worked for a towing company years ago after so many abandon cars would collect a brick party was in order. Mechanics from other shops would show up and bet. Two 445 buicks-both ran less that 30 seconds before through the pan. 440 dodge made it over a minute. Never had a big block chevy make it more that a minute, best small block chevy 2.5 minutes floating the valves, small block dodge almost four minutes. big block ford 429/460 just over 1.5 minutes. Best V8 without a doubt----351 Cleveland 2BB with a 135,000 miles. ran wide open semi floating valves till it ran out of gas which was about 5 minutes. Added more gas fired back up ran another 4 minutes, shut it down/cut the belt fired back up. Ran another 6 minutes manifolds were glowing cherry red ignited the spark plug boots. Never threw a rod or seized-lost ring tension and sputtered to a stop. Take that cheeby.
Personally I do not have any issue with any of these engines, I would also be concerned with what chassis they were in, for instance I would take a T800Kw with a c12 over a Sterling with a 3406 Cat. Also with a dump truck the suspension/transmission/front axle/rear axle rating can be as important as the engine choice.
2 are internationals and 1 is a peterbilt
I have no issues with them either, just locate parts readily for them is my point, getting harder by the month. Buddy of mine is still in the Independent Repair Business, also MY age and fraught with same Arthritis and old age maladies, has had Several engines, primarily 1970s vintage could not adequately or Timely acquire parts, ended up convincing owners to do full engine swaps to something later. Cannot have machines taking up space in extended storage in a working shop and expect to not lose some income.
Still need more info to give an opinion on the question.
1 international has the big cam 400 with 2 drop axles and a eaton 8ll trans the other international just has 1 drop axle and the 8ll trans with the 3406.and the peterbilt has 1 drop axle and the 8ll trans with the c12 under the hood the price is between 30-50k with 500k-625 miles
As others have already mentioned, for a dump truck what suspension setup is underneath it is probably just as important as what's under the hood and the rest of the power train. There seems to be two schools of thought. First, something steel such as Hendricksen or similar. Second is that a truck that originally left the OEM built as a dump truck with factory-installed air suspension is acceptable. What everyone seems to agree on is that an on-highway tractor built with air suspension then converted in later life to become a dump truck is not the way to go. You can check out this thread for more details. There are some other links posted within that thread that are also worthwile you taking the time to read. HeavyEquipmentForums
Sterling parts availability is going to vary depending on location, there is a TON of sterlings still around here, the place that use to be the dealer still has lots of parts for them, I got stuff from them for my 88 Ford. Regardless of your choice if you're buying a older dump truck I doubt you are going to be spending the coin on OEM parts, for my Western star a new window crank handle is $250, you'll go broke if you try to replace a bunch of that stuff. Different if it's a brand new truck, but I would be more looking for used parts availability for things like that, or just fabbing something up to make it work. I don't think any of those are a bad choice, I would more be looking at suspension as said, and overall condition, asking price, etc to decide which is the better way to go. Also maybe one has had a long time owner that you know has looked after it, that's a big factor. It is worth looking at axles too, being hard to find it cost me $1000 for a set of front drums for my WS, little things like that can make a difference in what it costs to maintain. I wouldn't trade my 3406B for any other engine though, never given me any problems, great power and mileage.
Ya that peterbilt is only 2 owner truck and they said the cat dealership does all the maintenance they say tires are 80% or better and all new brakes
But nevermind the peter it sold
See earlier posts. Did you take a look at what kind of suspension the other trucks you were looking at had..?
I am sorry, but if you are going to ask the question, please be dedicated to a full question, as I am dedicated to getting you a full answer. I am trying to give you a professional answer from the perspective of technician with 25 years experience, and owns, 2 dump trucks running daily. There are a number of very qualified people here who are dedicated to helping others, and moderators that are dedicated to making information available to others. Most are busy with other work, and try to pay attention so someone who is in trouble can have a quick answer. A shared community of information makes us all stronger and more profitable. I ask questions about items that I do not know, and try to contribute to the group with items I do know, this is one. Happy to help anyway I can. This is not Facebook
1998 INTERNATIONAL 9300 TRI AXLE DUMP WITH ALUMINUM BENSON DUMP BODY, CAT 3406 455/475 WITH 8 LL FULLER TRANSMISSION, 626,733 LISTED FOR MILES, AIR RIDE, DOUBLE FRAME, A/C,P/S, CHROME BUMPER, CHROME MIRRORS POWER AND HEATED, FLOAT 425 FLOATS ON FRONT AND 11R24.5 TIRES ON REAR VIRGIN RUBBER 90%, ALL ALUMINUM FUEL TANKS, COLOR OF CAN BLACK, PDLO, DOUBLE FRAME, CHROME GRILL, CHROME EXTERIOR SUNVISOR, WOOD LOOK DASH!
2000 international 9300 Quad Axle, Cummins B/C 400, 8LL, 44R, Excellent 17.5 foot Aluminum MAC Dump Bed They don't give what suspension is in this one
The 2000 international shouldn't be a b/c 400. At that year it should be a N14. Condition and price and what your end use is should be the determining factors on what truck you buy. I generally try to list a few thing that I want in any purchase, and try to get as many of those as possible, but I know I'm not going to get everything I want for the price I'm willing to pay. Asking which is most reliable engine is a ford gm ram pickup conversation. They all wear out and break. Any one you pick might be great- and they might be on their last legs. Cat generally cost more to fix , cummins used to be the cheap ones to rebuild, but parts have gone up on those also. Suspension depends on what you are going to do with it- which you didn't answer in the last post you put up about dump trucks, when you were asking about a bunch of Macks. (Site work vs delivering asphalt vs quarry stockpiling vs delivering equipment) Asking general questions about trucks is fine, and plenty of good guys here are willing to help- but none of us is going to be able pick out the golden perfect truck that will never wear out and break. Especially not from a salesmans 15 keyword ad. For example - from the one add- I wouldn't want a aluminum bed, if I was hauling boulders for a landscaper, but because we don't know what you want to do with the truck, no one can tell you what you should be looking for. If you're hauling ag lime and getting paid by the ton, every little bit counts and the aluminum might be the way to go. If you don't know what you are looking at in used trucks, find someone who does and take them with you to go look at the trucks. In person- with someone who knows what they are looking at. Pay them for the service and their knowledge.
Thanks just starting out with a new company I'm gonna have to take any load I can get ya I get Aluminum dumps won't hold up to big Boulder's or hunks of concrete.that was a good point about taking someone with me that knows what they are looking for..