I have a Yale forklift the only number i have on it is off the frame P-278299 continental motor F162 LP it have Eaton on the door i need wiring diagram all the wires are black but some one cut some out the alternator has power all the time all wires coming out and the starter has a jumper just need something to go by. I know the alternator needs replacing .
A wiring diagram??? you're killing me here I'd forget about a wiring diagram. You say the alternator has power all the time. The alternator should have power at the large wire all the time, that is connected directly to the battery positive terminal, no switches, only a fusible link. Technically it is usually connected to the positive battery cable at the starter solenoid. How many small wires are cut by the alternator? Do any of them have power when the engine is running but not when the engine is shut off? How do you know the alternator needs to be replaced? If the wires are not hooked up correctly, it won't charge. Be aware, there are "one wire, self exciting alternators" that ONLY have one wire hooked up, that goes to the battery Pos, or pos cable at the starter solenoid. You might want to use one if you get a new alternator. OR, you might have one already that is simple to get working. They look identical to normal alternators.
Give us a little more info like, cushion tire or pneumatic. What brand alternator, they used Prestolite and Motorola and a few oddballs with Delco. I may have a diagram that is correct or close depending on what you have. Without a model close is usually as good as you can expect. With that engine I can narrow it down a little.
And if possible a few pictures might answer questions before they are asked. Like the old saying one picture is worth 1,000 words! Forget if there is a minimum number of post one needs to do before you are able to up load pictures. Isn't there a "Practice" or "test" site here where you can post things just to get the hang of it? Just looked, if you click on the "Forums" up near the top of the home page then scroll down near the bottom of the list there is one labeled " New Member Introductions " You could "Introduce" yourself there to gain some posts.
the forklift has pneumatic tires 3-tier mass 13'-3" it has Eaton on the side door. The alternator is Ac Delco r-f and battery you turn the key off there power to all three of the connection should be only one battery. There are three black wires that where cut and splice together on the r connector 1 black wire to the f connector then the battery. They added two wires for the ignition one goes to coil one to battery. the motor is continental F162 and its LPG i think its 4,000 forklift.
Looks to be a L51C040, serial number is from 1974.
I just found out that the alternator was made to fit I don't know if it's the right one. I just look up in a old book it could be 6 or 12 volt ?
It would be 12 volt. It wasnt unusual back in the day to convert a Prestolite or Motorola to a Delco simply due to cost. A Delco could cost half or less.
By the way, that is a cushion tired truck not pneumatic.
A simple solution might be to convert it to a single wire Delco or just a 10SI alternator like I did on my 1947 Farmall BN tractor. That one was a used one I put one something like 25 years ago and is still working today. If help is needed on how to wire it up I could make up a sketch. I used a simple oil pressure switch to turn it on once engine was running. I'd have to go out and look at it to be safe because like I said that was a quarter century ago!
ok cushion tire got it out of the 12 lift i work on this is the hardest one yet
How about a pic of the alternator showing the wiring connections, and the terminals R and F ? I don't remember ever seeing an "AC Delco" alternator, only Delco, or Delco Remy, so that got me curious. https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=rrtips&th=19780 These guys say it could be an external regulated alternator, or if it has a 1 and 2 next to the R and F then it could be a case that could either external or internal. A pic might explain more. If you have voltage at all the terminals when it's running, but it's not charging, then you know something is wrong with the alternator, but it might only need a $10 regulator and brushes.
I did take out the alternator
I think that's what the yesterday's tractors thread was referring to, the 1 and 2 next to the R and F means that the aluminum case could contain either an internally regulated or externally regulated alternator. You might be able to tell the difference by the layout of the spade connectors that point up in the picture, whether they are inline or what. or take the back cover off and get us a picture of the insides. Regardless if it's internally or externally regulated, if the three terminals were connected and the voltage did not rise above 13V with the engine running, and revved once or twice, then the alternator itself is not functioning. If it has an internal voltage regulator, there's probably a tab that you can ground to the case with a small screwdriver that will bypass the voltage regulator and put the alternator in full output (D hole in the photo in the link), if that works then you just need a new voltage regulator, and if it doesn't work, you probably just need new brushes and regulator. That alt looks clean enough and genuine, that I'd repair rather than replace. But diagnose first. I'll run an alternator on a bench hooked to a battery and spun with a 3/8" drill or screwgun, 1/2" drills usually won't go fast enough.
where can i find shop manual
ok I did alternator test #1-R goes to 1.2 then jumps 19.8 volt. #2-f 19.8 volts
Battery voltage? either the alternator is not connected to the battery,or the voltage regulation is faulty. it could be an alternator designed for an external voltage regulator, but hooked up directly with no voltage regulation. A voltage regulator is usually a small square or rectangular box about 3x3" or smaller, by 3/4" thick or so, can be metal or black plastic, usually not too far from the alternator, but mounted on the body to get away from the engine heat and vibration.
One question about that alternator can you tell us about the slide terminals where the case is marked 1R 2F. Are they inline - - or parallel | | ? If inline then that should be an internally regulated alternator if the parallel ones then it should be externally regulated. If they are the inline connectors which would indicate the internal regulator version I could give you a simple way to wire it if only interested in having it function and not necessarily "original". Like I said I have had one on my old Farmall for two or three decades working just fine!
both 1 and 2 are inline - - if you can give the simple way that would be great
What is the battery voltage when #1 and #2 are 19V? If the alternator is off of the engine, use some wires to hook #1 and #2 to the bat terminal and hook that to a + battery with the case to - battery terminal, then spin the alternator with a drill and socket, it should have resistance to turning and produce 14V when turned. If the alternator is on the engine, then bat+ on the alternator should have the same voltage as the + post on the battery, and with the engine running both should go up to 14V. If they don't go up, then connect #1 and #2 to the bat+ and see if they all go to 14V. This is testing the alternator, it will drain the battery if left connected that way.
Maybe you will find this site: https://www.forkliftpdfmanuals.com/
looks like you could find it here if you haven't already https://diyrepairmanuals.com/product-category/construction/yale/forklift-yale/