I have the RARE task of removing some Yanmar injectors from a JD 650 2cyl. tractor.. For the life of me, I cant figure out how to grab them.. Hoye Tractor sell a "priority" tool they designed, guarantees the inj. removal.. Anybody own this tool?? I called them up to order a new inj. & the tool.. The fella on the line said, "if u don't wanna buy-it & this is a 1x repair, we rent it for 10.00 for 10 days" Vs the 88.00 to purchase.. I said, Sign me up!!! So the injector and tool are on their way.. but I was wondering, & its drivin me nuts, how does the tool work?? I screwed a 8x1.25mm screw into the return on top & used a slide hammer, but no luck.. I even had the engine RUNNING on 1 cylinder, hoping the compression would blow it out.!!! No luck.. that baby is IN THERE.. When I say "running" I mean RUNNING.. Not just rolling it over, I mean actually running on 1 cylinder.. I could rev it up & down !!! & it still wouldn't pop loose..
I'm not sure of the tool your talking about. My slide hammer set ups have done the job 90% of the time. I have had to pry bar some stubborn SOB's at times but since I had replacement injectors with no core value I didn't worry about bending them. I had to pull 2 injectors in a JD344 loader with that Yanmar engine a few months ago but didn't have much trouble. I did use a slotted bearing puller on a few in the past. Maybe someone will enlighten us both on this tool...….it may be something to put on my wish list.
Thanks V.. It just worries me that I'll pull the threads on the return cap.. Incase anyone has never seen this type of inj. before, you can go to the Hoye site & click on the JD 650 & scroll to the injector.. About 99% of diesel fuel injectors have a line w/ a nut w/ female threads that screw ONTO the injector.. THIS set-up has a line w/ a nut w/ MALE thread that screw INTO the injector.. You cant pry on the injector because you'll damage/collapse the hole that the line screws into.. These are tough little engines so its hard to "bad mouth" the set-up.. but GEEZ.. make the dam thing serviceable !!!! The inj. pump was so rusted that the rack was stuck.. & I couldn't remove it.. The rack has to be in a certain position inorder for the pump to clear the block.. I had to disassemble the pump where it sat inorder to free up the rack so I could get it out & rebuild it.. NOW the friggin injector fiasco.. The funny thing is>> it'll start & run smooth on 1 cyl.. & as soon as I tighten the line up on #2 she purrs like a kitten until the tip sticks open THEN she starts smoking & rattling.. I can loosen the line up & it smooths out.
Well, those are a different breed! The ones I have pulled were not that particular design. I can see your quandary now! Is there room around it to give it a twist in the bore back and forth to loosen it? I've done the twist route before, sometimes I had to use a hammer and chisel but once they moved it was all downhill from there.
Nope.. I even took off the air intake to TRY to get a better angle on it.. There ARE flats on the lower injector body, exactly where one might TRY to turn it.. but the curves of the head prevent any wrench movement.. I cant wait to see this tool.!!!! The only way I can see it working is> actually unscrewing the injector, leaving the nozzle nut still in the head.. then screwing a BIG screw into the nozzle nut & some how "jacking" it out..?? If u look at the "tool description" on the Hoye site it says, The kit comes w/ everything u need except>> Vise Grips, WD-40 & an adjustable wrench.. ALL the tools that you DONT USE when working on injectors..Lol.. But the tools every shade tree mechanic has.. Lol BUT in their defense.. it says they've NEVER had an injector they couldn't remove!! even broken injectors..
Found this after a quick search. Pretty much what you were thinking pump guy. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/171020-injector-removal-tool-cheapskate-version-2.html Worst one I ever had was on a Cat 966D. Broke off 5 out of the 6 injectors. The head was coming off after the first one broke, but 5!!! Up to that point I had a very good track record for getting stuck injectors out. That was an old abused machine that have very little maintenance done to it over the years. Just NASTY.
Worst I did was the pencil nozzles in a Cat 1160 V8. I had to use a five pound slide hammer and had to pull a head on the last two. That ring dam really didn't stop the carbon from packing around the stem of the nozzle and freezing it in place.
Thanks for the suggestions & the link.. I HOPE they send me the whole tool.. We'll see.. I'll let u know how it works out.
I trust you gonna post a pic of that tool when ya git it pumpguy. My worst, a big six Mitsubitchi in a 480 Kobelco. Started at #6, pulled all with no issue. Got to #1, wouldn't budge. After much prying and conjoling from made on the fly puller attached to injector line threads it came out...with the copper head cup coming along for the ride. I had to take a zizz wheel on a die grinder to split the copper cup from the injector. It was then I discovered a former jackweed had applied RTV silicone to the injector during his brilliant installation and effectively glued the injector to the head cup. That's where my fun began, I had to figure out a way to install a new injector cup without pulling the head, but I got it done. Thank God!
I'll def take a pic.. but getting it "here" is another story.. Lol
I’ve had pencil style JD nozzles stuck so bad the head had to come off, heat and careful beating to get them out! I’m anxious to see this contraption.....
Slide Hammer adapter to screw into injector body #3 in photo should (IMO) work.
That's what I'm thinkin.. adaptor screws into # 3.. Especially in the write-up the guy says, they had a machine shop make the adaptors.. Its def. not something any of us would have, laying around the shop.. I used a 8x1.25mm screw in # 9 {top} & used a slide hammer.. no luck. I pulled & beat so hard, I've got a huge blister in the web of my thumb.. Lol
were still waiting for pics of the new shop
I didn't look close enough at the site to find out if this injector needed a core?? IF NOT, I'll get a buddy w/ a small metal lathe to possibly make me one?? I have no idea how I/m gonna get the metric threads on it tho??
I hear ya P..
I "coulda" just replace the tip on the injector & called it aday.. because with all my "beating" & prying, the body came loose from the bottom nut.. I actually took the nozzle/tip out of the injector, re-worked it & put it back in & torqued it down.. When I started the engine, she purred like a kitten for about 10 minutes.. then went to hammering again.. The tip stuck again.. I did this 3x.. & I started wondering.. if the body is this stuck, it might be warped, causing the nozzle to stick?? The tip is only 35.00, { hoye doesn't advertise a tip but they sell them IF you know the secret handshake} & an injector is 88.00.. I fought & fought w/ myself on what to do.. finally I said screw-it.. & ordered a whole injector & removal tool..
…….and I just so happen to have a small metal lathe for sale. Whodathunkit!? LOL
https://www.cnn.com/2018/10/17/opinions/ti-fake-melania-stripper-video-filipovic/index.html Lathe with metric thread transponder gearing cuts 'inch or metric' threads. Annealed (1/2 hard) 4140 would last forever or Stressproof, ETD150 Instead of using a slide hammer, use a small air impact hammer with stub that fits into receiver on pull-rod that threads into the injector puller adapter. Impact plus vibration! Outfit in the UK makes a puller using air hammer.
Had my own fun with old injectors over the years, even Mack nozzles can be a bear to get out with all the flat and ear spots to pry on. Have had to destroy a few on removal but the silicone to the cup unit wins the Booby prize, NOT ever seen that!!
First time for me as well DMiller, I was temporarily stunned when antifreeze flowed everywhere when I finally pulled #1, including down the #1 hole, until I figured out why. Hello suck bucket! Had to get a machine shop to make some tooling for me as well as modify a swedging broach to install a new cup with the head still fitted to the engine.
I got the tool from Hoye.. As we suspected, it a BIG 25lb slide hammer w/ the end machined to screw down INTO the nozzle nut. The injector is super easy to disassemble where it sits.. as a matter of fact, as I was "tapping it" lightly w/ a brass drift, trying to get it to turn.. it turned alright.. turned right out of the nozzle/bottom nut.. It'll get on it when the sun comes up.. NOW I'm wondering.. this thing has got some weight to it.. THEIR shipping fee was 25.00 TO ME..UPS. I'm wondering if its feasible to KEEP the tool rather than shipping it back & paying THAT FREIGHT FEE.. Tool rental is 10.00, shipping is 25.00??..vs the tool cost of 88.00.. what the heck.. I'll get more than half my money back.. I guess it all depends on how much the freight charges are gonna be to ship it back.??
Just buy the tool. One can never have too many quality tools!
25lb slide hammer, um and $25.00 shipping fee. Designed to discourage rent and return, IMO.
LOL !!! I'm keepin it.. I already called & told them to take it outta stock..Lol.. They "ONLY" billed me 74.36 for the tool?? website says 88.00?? 50.00 shipping & 10.00 rental is 60.00.. for 14.00 I got myself a real DANDY tool.. SO.. if anyone has the misfortune of working on 1 of these baztards.. I got the tool.. OH.. BTW> it worked GREAT.. I REALLY thought I was gonna split the nozzle nut !!!! I smacked that slide pretty hard about 5x.. & it didn't budge.. Then, 5 more times with some azz behind it & it started to move.. man, that was tough.. & I have been soaking it in penetrating oil for DAYS !!! If I didn't know any better I would have thought someone put "green loc-tite" on it..{non-removable} If anyone is interested, the thread pitch is>> 19 x 1.5mm.. Ya might just wanna stick that info away for a rainy day??
Next time, try carburetor cleaner instead of penetrating oil. The carb cleaner will dissolve the carbon buildup, which is why they are stuck. I learned that trick from the triton motors with the plugs that broke. https://goo.gl/images/jAqqcE
Found pneumatic hammer set up on U-tube The Würth Injector Removal Tool Kit combines impact and vibration to quickly and easily remove stuck diesel injectors.
I am having a hard time understanding this whole issue. Does this engine have the injectors like the larger JD or old Isuzu where the fuel comes in the side and bleeds off to a rail on top? And you are slide hammering it out by the bleed rail bolt threads?
BV> to understand it better, you'll have to see the injector.. go to Hoye Tractor, click JD650 & scroll down to the injector.. I TRIED to hammer it out from the bleed hole.. no go. The 2nd slide hammer in the video, is the one Hoye sent me !!!! That baby had some weight..
Would be interesting to see an independent test of the Wurth taker-outer vs the slide hammer. In the Wurth commercial we know who must win!
Does anyone know how much $ a regular slide hammer like that costs, off the top of yer head?? {2nd hammer in vid} Harbor Fr. has the "kit" for 80.00 but not the BIG hammer alone.. Watching the vid I noticed he's TAKING THE INJ. APART.. That's NOT how u get an injector out.. What about getting the injectors "checked"?? THATS out the window at this point.. I see what your saying Ken.. he really did give the "big hammer" a chance.. I'll BET that if the slide hammer was ALL he had, it woulda been a diff. story.. lol
After a bit out internet searching; there are probably 30 outfits selling injector pullers that require TAKING THE INJ. APART. Italians, Germans etc; looks like very pricey tooling. Würth offers pullers with 10, 20 hydraulic pulling power! MY 1st though; pumpguy would really be thrilled having a customer bring in disassembled injectors. OEM valve springs; aftermarket replacements? Agreed. Vibration and impact does work for loosening hydraulic cylinder gland nuts, when a 6 foot spanner wrench won't budge the nut. I still can't rap-my-head around $87.00 pop tester without a gauge follow up pointer, LOL. IMO kind of hobbyist type tester! Cheers people