The 2 grease zerks on the C frame of my dozer wouldn't take grease. I got one side free with a grease joint rejuvinator but am not having any luck with the other side. I've heated it up pretty good and tried the rejuvinator with both PB Blaster and trans fluid. Any other ideas other than pulling the C Frame pin out?
I have had pretty good luck soaking the joint with motor oil and using the machine for a while and eventually the joint will free up and take grease.I keep a squirt can in my truck for just that purpose.Ron G
Try a bit of heat on the nipple.usually works Nick...
Have you taken the zerk out and blown all the grease out with brake cleaner? Then fill with something light like PB and try again with the rejuvenator. If that fails you can try a porta power while moving the joint.
Sometimes they just take patience, and sometimes a new pin. Sounds like you're doing just fine.
So far I've tried new zerks, heat, a rejuvinator w/ tans fluid and PB Blaster all with no luck. I did get the other side to take grease with the rejuvinator so I feel like if I just keep at it this one will come free at some point. Think I'm gonna try Ron G's oil method for a few days then try the rejuvinator again. I haven't tried hooking the rejuvinator up with hoses and fittings rather than just using the zerk as some have recommended. Funny thing is when I took the original zerk out the grease in the main port was like new. The blockage has to be in the little port that directs grease to the bushing. This thing will keep me up at night till I get it fixed.
Remove the zerk then brake fluid and air to unclog the port. Can you get in there with a torch tip cleaner or wire? The only other thing would be if a bushing or something spun in the bore causing the port to not line up.
Like Delmer mentioned, if you have a Porta-power type pump adapt one of the couplers off it to the 1/8 inch thread size for the zerk and pump the oil in using that. The light weight oil used in a Porta-power along with the 10,000 psi will 95% of the time do the job. Then once it is free keep greasing it every day to keep it free. I always like to see a machine greased at the end of the shift to flush out the dirt from the days work. And any fittings that work in the worst should be greased way more often to keep them clear.
Why is that surprising? Wasn't the factory paint still on the check ball too? Yes, the hole in the bushing is the plug usually, that's why you need to get oil or solvent to wash it from either side, like the brake cleaner straw, or oil on the pin. The dirt, rust, clay packs in to make a pretty durable plug. That's why the porta power helps, you can hold high pressure on the joint as it moves so hopefully the plug pushes against the moving pin and lets the oil by. If the pin is still nice and tight then the rejuventator is at a disadvantage in trying to blow grease past a solid supported plug.
I have heard that argument in the past but I always grease in the morning while the machine warms up.I don't think that the pins etc retain as much grease at the end of a shift as they do when greased cold and the temptation to walk the machine with cold hydraulic oil etc with minimal warm up time is lessened somewhat.Ron G
Problem up here in the arctic is the machine doesn't grease in the morning when it's a frozen ice cube. Excavators are the worst. Changing to a lighter grease can help, but that doesn't stay in the joint as well either.
It gets pretty cold here in Connecticut too and we have the same problems with the cold and the grease.I have found that changing to the synthetic greases is a big help.I still stand by my greasing in the morning while the machine is warming up and I was thinking about an excavator in my original post.They should run about 30 minutes at least before you move them in this climate,actually in any temperature to do it right.That really goes for any machine.Ron G
Yup. -25*F this morning. The most efficient is greasing while stuff warms up. I let my toys warm up at least 15 min in the summer and 30min+ if it's cold. My operators will get fired if they do any less. They get paid to warm up and lube my machines. I use Shell grease and the heavy stuff in the summer and thin in the winter. Check the fluids, start the machine, lube, have a cup of coffee then go to work. I've never had an engine or any other major component fail by doing that. Maybe some because of hours but never because of a cold or hot seize.
It is going to be 8 below here tonight.I used to use Texaco grease except in the real cold and the synthetic grease I used to use was that real shiny red stuff,getting too old to remember the brand but it worked pretty good in the grease guns and also was good in whatever we were greasing.I asked a lot from whatever I was running and I took care of it too.
Thanks for the tips everyone. I like Ron G's idea of running the equipment while you grease it in the morning. I try wait to let it warm up but it's hard to sit there for 15 minutes doing nothing. I bought this dozer sight unseen and one of the first things I noticed when it showed up was the lack of old grease build up on the areas that take grease. I bought a skid steer a few years ago and the guys apologized about all the grease on fittings, I told them no problem . I'm gonna try to run it and squirt oil on the fitting the next few days if that doesn't work guess I'll take the pin out.
Soak those pins and bushings for a few days,you should have a grease fitting assortment on hand,NAPA sells a good one so you always have the right size for whatever you are working on and after a few days your repair will be pretty well cut out for you.I shiver when I hear a squeak from a joint on anything.I usually drink a coffee while I am greasing.That pic in my avatar shows a D8H getting a grease job while it warms up and it needed to run a while longer so I snapped a few pics while I waited.Ron G
Would not want to try to pump NLGI #2 into a machine that sat outside last night around here! This morning got up it was -13ºF and dropped a few more before the sun was up!
We use a low temp grease for our Tucker snow groomers. I believe we get it at our local NAPA store. No snow around here to groom this year, really blows.-16 this morning.
Glad to hear it's winter somewhere. 47* this morning with a high of 67* and ground is dry on top. Been strange winter even for Texas. I bought this dozer thinking I could take the winter to fix anything I found wrong and add brush screens. Looks like I'll be learning to use it instead.
Well down west of Syracuse we have a bit of the white stuff, most parts of the yard are one foot or less. Digg away the snow where it has not been plowed and it's still nice and soft. Getting hot out there now with the sun right up to 10ºF!
In cold winter temperatures up in the Andes the only thing that would pump satisfactorily in an autolube system was an NLGI #000 ........
Nige, Where abouts in the Andes where you?
I'm not any more. I spent 9 years working in Chile, Bolivia, Peru, & Argentina but that was in a former life.
kshansen, I'm south east of Syracuse,1/2 half way between Binghamton and Syracuse. The measureable snow stops in Fabius, everything else is wind blown.
The problem is the clearance between the end of the zerk , and the pin . A well designed machine will have a nice relief machined in the pin to make this happen ? Grease it everyday and it will take grease everyday .
The oil in the hand pump is a great trick. One of the best tips I've learned on here. Thanks. Works almost every time
I have found in this long life of mine that it is human nature to look for too much problems so something simple could never work,right? When you work as an operator for a company with more than one operator you often get assigned to a machine that somebody else has run the day before or a few days before and the machine has not gotten greased properly for a while and you get a chance to use this squirt can fairly often to know that it works and can recommend to somebody else.Glad that you could benefit from it.Ron G
Abso****inglutely amazing !
So , while the machine runs the zerks warm up ?
My John Deere 410 bought 15 years ago had little wear, no weld repairs, and no functional hydraulics after 20 minutes warm up. It stands to reason it hadn't been greased. Several fittings wouldn't take grease. I found no alternative but to take the pin out and scrape the grease channel. A fleet machine, I think it arrived with bad backhoe valve, They nursed it along for years before selling it. I think it may never have worked well. A fresh valve made it almost good as new.
After you run it for a while the pins will often take grease,say at lunch time if you drench them with oil first thing on your shift.Ron G
I like your thinking.
I personally like to grease at the end of the day. I ran a lube truck for a few years, and I don't believe the machine gets any better greasing if it's done cold. As an added bonus, when you grease at the end of the day, you can look the machine over really well, and line up any parts or repairs needed for the next morning, instead of finding an issue first thing in the morning, and losing all of the time to go get parts and such before starting work. When you work out in the bush, you don't just run in because you found something that needs attention without losing a ton of time.
I'll second that, not in the bush here but always nice to find something before the machine is out in the middle of a mud hole! Also if working in slop in colder weather like to grease at the end of shift to flush things out before the slop freezes over night.
I tried the rejuvenators, a couple of different brands with anything from brake fluid to power punch; then I got the Alemite 1056 grease gun, they claim it makes up to 10,000psi and it has pushed grease into zerks that rejuvenators wouldn't touch, no bs.
Good post, this is how we roll.
Instead of a porta power would a grease gun work? I have a nice Milwaukee cordless. Can you put oil in it instead of grease?
That should work but depending on the gun it might be a leaky mess so don't put the gun on top of the dry-cleaning you stopped by to pick up for wife!
What’s grease?
That lack of grease has made us all a lot of money over the years ...lol
If you're lucky, and the grease fitting can be positioned vertical or close... take the fitting off, clean out any grease and fill with oil. Replace the zerk and pump in grease. Even a little bit of oil will loosen hardened grease. Warning... when using heat. Take the fitting off before heating. The heat will expand the grease building pressure against the zerk. Getting splattered with hot grease when the zerk lets go is no fun
Also the heat will anneal the little spring that holds the check ball and then you'll have an open grease fitting.