I just finished up with repacking my crowd cylinder. What a bear... I thought getting the gland or bolt off the plunger was going to be the hardest part. Turns out identifying the correct seal kit was. Not only did someone replace the HED with a standard dipper they also installed a new gland nut at some point and used the updated one. So going through my parts manual left me with the wrong kit and a bunch of wasted time. I also didn't realize the piston/plunger bearings weren't removable. They had a crack in each one so I tried to remove them only to ruin it. That led me down another rabbit hole to find a replacement piston. I finally had what I thought was the right one only to figure out that the bolt hole was too small and the counter bore for the washer wasn't big enough. Luckily I have a machinist friend that took care of me last night... In the end, just to help anyone that might run across something similar, here is what I came up with for part/seals: Seals 87633295 (I initially bought 85819350 and they were very different) I believe my gland is p/n: 87414508 Plunger 85800983 had all the right measurements except the bolt hole and the washer counter bore. 87587507 might be the correct one, but they're backordered. I'm working on undoing years of maintenance neglect by the looks of things.
Welcome to the world of New Holland hydraulic repairs. At least you have the updated gland so a complete fitting kit should have been available. Pro tip: Search eBay and other sources for NH part numbers. When I did my crowd the unitized piston bearings were damaged. I found a match at Fast Lift Parts for around a 100 bucks. On eBay I always use the advanced search option. I will put the part number in the search field and set filters for Buy it Now, US Only, and lastly for it to sort by price/shipping low to high. That last filter is not always true so you still have to scroll down through the results and check them.
Once I landed on the right seals it was pretty easy. Now for the boom lift cylinder... Gland doesn't want to move on that one. Luckily it's not leaking yet, but she's pretty crusty. I always search all over the place using the part numbers. It's pretty sick how proud CNH is of their parts. You're right about the price sort. That's usually a waste of time. Very deceptive on eBay's part. I guess they want to give people with inflated prices a chance to screw someone. The plunger came from Reliable Aftermarket Parts on eBay which I thought was selling ChiCom parts, but it turned out it was machined by TBird Machine in PA. Made in USA made my day. Very nice part. Now to finish the A/C. I pulled the seat and cleaned up the evaporator. It was a mess. That was a job... I should just need two hoses now. Hopefully...
I won't fight with gland nuts any more. One way or another I use hydraulic force to loosen them. On my left loader lift cylinder I put a piece of 4x4 under the pull handle and lowered the loader until it came loose. For the right side you could attach a chain or strap and lift the loader to loosen it. On my crowd I strapped the wrench on and used the loader on my JD tractor to push down on the handle.
My only issue is getting the gland nut wrench to stay on while I'm applying the pressure. I'll get it eventually. I ordered an OTC wrench to see if it's any stronger. My other one started to tweak the pins and then it wouldn't stay in the holes.
I don't remember which member first suggested it but ratchet straps are the answer to keeping the wrench on. Also sometimes you just have to use a big pipe wrench and to hell with scratching up the gland.
That would be me. Post 78. HeavyEquipmentForums
I thought about the ratchet strap and will probably try that first. If worse comes to worse I'll weld a bar on to the gland. The heat and no slippage will get her off fo sho.
This was my left side lift cylinder repack. Loosening the gland is around the 2 minute mark.
Nice job on that video. Looks like your set up made removing the gland nut pretty easy.
I call it hydraulic persuasion.
This is the OTC gland nut wrench. I had no problems with the tool, but the supplied pins were too small for the holes in the gland. I purchased the bearings you see in mine. You could do the same with a grade 8 bolt as well. Don't be shy with a hammer on the cylinder tube where the gland is threaded in. You will be surprised how this loosens it up!
To make your life easier, once you get the spacing right for those pins on that gland wrench, tighten up the middle SHCS bolt, so you don’t have to keep adjusting it.
Figured that one out. Makes a big difference.
I was able to knock the boom lift cylinder out. In the end I ratchet strapped an OTC wrench on. Much better than the cheap Amazon ones. I heated up the barrel, and added a 6' cheater pipe to my breaker bar. When it still didn't budge, I attached all that to the 12k# winch on my truck and prayed. No problem... Some idiot put a butt load of red Loctite on the threads after having used a pipe wrench to get it off.
Thanks for the update! If you are using this tractor for personal use, I wouldn't put any red loctite on it. When I used to rebuild the cylinders on bucket trucks for an electric company, we never used loctite, but instead used never sieze so the damn thing would come apart the next time...LOL. None unthreaded in service.
I hate threads that dead end and you never hear about the resolution. I try to follow through when I can. Yes. This is a personal use tractor. No way in hell do I use red loctite. I've been adding a couple drops of blue just because. I'm not going to going forward for just the reasons you listed. It just doesn't seem necessary and I keep an eye on leaks so I'd catch any issues.
Much appreciated! And helps countless people in the future.