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10ft moldboard

jrm1504 ยท 2011-04-28 20:13

Has anyone ever used a 10ft moldboard for narrow roads on a JD 670 sized grader?

Replies14
  1. #1mitch5042011-04-28 22:54

    When you angle a 10' mold board, that will be a narrow road.

  2. #2DonBC2011-05-03 13:45

    I have a little old Allis Chalmers Model D grader and it had a 12' moldboard on it when I got it. My work is primarily grading single wide driveways for private acreages. The driveways typically are winding through forested areas and I found that 12' was too wide so I cut 1' off each end of the moldboard. The 10' width works great. Fully angled it is about 7' wide which is fine as most driveways are less than 14' wide which allows me to easily crown the road surface. With the type of soil I am dealing with the 10' moldboard is a better size for the weight of my grader as well.

  3. #3rsherril2011-05-04 06:01

    Do the rear wheels straddle the windrow?

  4. #4DonBC2011-05-04 16:24

    rsherril, if you are asking about my D grader the rear wheels are only 6' wide outside to outside so the windrow is off to the side. I suppose if I shifted the moldboard all the way to one side it would put the windrow at the rear wheels and maybe between the wheels.

  5. #5Motor Grader2011-05-20 12:16

    I'm not sure if my moldboard experience will help or not. Being that I manufacture compact graders, 10' is our standard moldboard. As you can imagine, a compact grader being several feet shorter than a large grader and not nearly the ground clearance does not have the same blade mobility of your 670. On your 670 you have the ability to twist the moldboard around so much more than a compact grader. It actually allows you to grade narrower passes than we can. I guess what I'm thinking is that a 10' board would easily be positioned for narrow roads under your 670. But I bet some operators of larger graders would argue that they can achieve the same thing by how they position the mold board. I also have had some customers in my underground market to order 8' moldboards because the drifts were so narrow. It seemed to make sense at the time but the loss of the 2 feet proved to not work very well. Just curious as to if you can purchase a 10' board for a 670 or do you require someone to custom build it for you?

  6. #6621_Rocker2011-05-21 01:26

    Installing a boot on the end of your moldboard gives your long moldboard the ability to tackle narrow roadways. I am able to do 8' roads with my Cat 12 and its 12' moldboard.

  7. #7mitch5042011-05-21 09:23

    Is a boot like an end gate? Please post a pic of one if you can, thanks.

  8. #8621_Rocker2011-05-29 04:19

    I won't be able to take a picture of this for a while but I have created a sketch. I would make my boot out of 3/8" T-1. Make the bottom side of the front with a bit of a curve, you don't want to be hooking anything with it. I would weld two 3/4" bolts to one end keeping them parallel. Cut two holes in your moldboard endbit for the bolts. Your boot will be attached with nuts and washers/spacers on to the bolts keeping it a little bit loose and not rigidly tight. Weld a 5/16" chain hook on the top of your moldboard 2 or 2 1/2 feet from the end of your mold board. Attach a 5/16" chain to the front end of the boot. You can either weld it on or drill a hole and use a shackle. Attach the other end of the chain to the hook you welded on to your moldboard. Many people create a way to store this on the blade when they are not using it. I have seen it hung off of the front pushblock or on to the side or top of the A-frame drawbar. You can run with the boot side of the blade both trailing and leading. Leading pulls in a small windrow with out spilling outside of the blade and trailing accumulates material without spilling out a windrow and evens out your material carrying more along with you.

  9. #9myeffy2011-05-30 09:59

    oh my god

  10. #10myeffy2011-05-30 10:01

    caterpiller william adams gave my father a demonstration of your idea but it was better and that was back in 1968 next

  11. #11myeffy2011-05-30 10:04

    it also had an atachment to convert your grader into a mini scrapper now i think this stuff was pattented years ago hey go buy yourself a book on R.G. letournoe intresting in earthworks there aint no short cuts

  12. #12mitch5042011-05-30 10:31

    Hey, thanks, 621 That is what I was calling an endgate. I have been planning to make one for one of my graders, but haven't gotten around to it. I know you can buy them, but I rather build (overbuild) stuff like that. I really appreciate the detailed information. One of the best things about this forum is when we can save each other from reinventing the wheel. Wonder if one on each end would work with the blade straight to flatten out a dumped windrow of gravel? Thanks again, I'm sure you saved me some experimenting, Mitch

  13. #13mitch5042011-05-30 10:50

    Uh, Myeffy, I've been reading some of your posts, and, I know you are new here, (in number of posts), so: about 95% of us on here are here to exchange ideas, have pleasant conversations about shared interests, and learn from each other. There is a LOT of knowledge and experience on here free for the asking. We have a mix of everything from total greenhorns, to world-class experts. I have made my living w/ equip. for 26 yrs, and been around it over 40, and I'm still in the lower 3rd. Just as an example, Randy Kreig does teach classes, and has written at least one book on graders. He works on the ice roads in alaska, and everything he has said here that I have checked has been right. You sound like you have knowledge and experience, and might fit in well here, IF you tone down the attitude. Otherwise, you'll find yourself being ignored. Good luck, Mitch

  14. #14myeffy2011-05-30 11:00

    well i bet you by 10 years old mate yes i understand sorry if i offended dont take it hard this is a tough old business dont forget well here in AUSSIE it is anyway