Hi All, I hope everyone is doing well. I haven't been on in a while just so busy. I am playing with sweetheart (1155D) again, and I would like to replace the trans pressure gauge, but I prefer not to replace it with the one from Case/CNH whatever, for about $200. Could you tell me what the max pressure would be so I can choose a gauge that would handle that much pressure? Thanks Again! B-Crazy
The pressure on these machines is about 250-350psi. You'll need one that reads about 500psi or so, you be able to find a gauge at a farm store or a good parts store.
Thanks Coy, That tells me what I needed to know. I was looking at a "new old stock" Stewart Warner online but the max on it is 300psi. There are very few of these offered online in the places I have been looking so I will begin checking farm stores and (good) parts stores. Finding a good parts store is almost impossible around here now. The chain stores have put the really good ones out of business. Back in the day we had several good ones in our area where you could go in with the broken part in your hand and parts guy would know what it was, what if came off of, and what you needed by the time you got to the parts counter. Now if the computer doesn't tell them exactly what you need, where to find it in their store, and kick them in the tail to get started to walk back there and find it they can't you or they don't it, of they just sold the last one and we can have you one by the day after tomorrow at 2:00pm. Oh and that is if the truck in not late delivering. Does any of this sound familiar to you Guys? B-Crazy
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1927297763...Dx+ulhk5NFLFcp0pWVjT+IX03e0=|tkp:BFBM1PrLzqdh
Hi Tink, I guess what you are telling me is this a gauge like this will work for what I need and it doesn't actually have to say it is for transmission pressure. Correct?
Yes Pressure is pressure. Doesn't matter where it comes from.The only defining thing is if it is water, oil or gas. Those eBay gauges are rated wog and they are back-mounted.
Sounds good I will order now THANKS!
Make sure it will handle cold weather. Most liquid filled gauges have glycerine in them but there's a new fluid they use that's better and works in even colder weather. I would think there'd be a chart that shows temp. ratings for oil filled gauges online.
Thanks WD for the tip I would have never thought of that. It has this stuff in it NEW LIQUID/GLYCERIN FILLED so I would think it will be fine for the North Carolina temps. B-C
Just thought it was worth checking beforehand.
Hi Guys, I hope you are all doing well! The gauges that Tinkerer sent me the link to work great. But due to my failure to check the diameter size I needed before ordering means that I had to order twice to get the correct size. But they are cheap enough that now I have a couple of extras for some other project in the future. These are nice gauges however I am still trying the decide the best way to fasten them in the dash as there are not any studs on the back of these like the normal dash gauges have. But I will figure that out when I have time to think on it a little. The best thing is, the trans pressure is good, that was a big load off of my mind when I cranked it after hooking up the new gauge!!!
Also I have rebuilt all of the hydraulic cylinders except one over the last couple of weeks. The last tilt cylinder I have not been able to get apart. It is going to come apart but just haven't out how yet or how damaged it will be. It has to come apart now because I have melted the wiper seal and the O-ring on the gland, so it is in worse shape now than it was before I started on it. I feel sure that someone ask me if I have checked for a setscrew or the nylon thread locking plug which the book shows (if used). Yes I have looked for both but I have not found either of those. The other 5 cylinders which I have already built did not have those either although I know the other 5 not having one means nothing when playing a machine this old. I am sure that some of you Guys have a method for getting these broken loose so any ideas that I haven't would be great. I have already thought about the tool I want to build along with tapping 3 of the 4 pin holes in the end of the gland to hold it secure while putting a massive amount of turning pressure on it. But that is going to take a little time to build, drill, and tap. But I don't have any other ideas on it now but that idea. I thought for sure when I heated it (the end of the cylinder, not the gland) that it would break loose but it didn't. I was beginning to think that it may have been tack welded but I don't see any evidence of it. And there certainly not any paint hiding a weld of any kind around the outside end of the cylinder now.
You need to peen! - have a read of this thread before you get too far into things.
Hey thanks for sharing. This is interesting reading I wish I had known this sooner. I guess I should have asked sooner, oh well, you know how people like me are that think they know it all. Even though I have proven over and over how little I really know! I have another question, what is the difference in using the flat side of a ball peen hammer and a regular flat hammer? Am I missing something on this too?
When you smash your thumb it almost sounds like you were supposed to with a ball peen hammer. I think the steel could be different. Ball peen's are made for pounding on heavier steel. However there are special railroad sledge hammers that are softer so they won't chip and splinter.
You Guys know so much that I would never think of, thanks! B-C
I always thought that the ball of a ballpeen hammer causes a small amount of metal expansion where it hits. The amount of expansion will depend on how hard the hammer hits the metal. Atco's method of peening a cylinder barrel will never fail to work as long as it is peened correctly.
Good morning Tinkerer! I am a little confused (which does not take much ), in the post in the other thread that Alrman gave the link above, someone was saying use the flat end of the ballpeen hammer (unless I am misunderstanding something). (See below, I have copied and pasted below). You are saying use the ball end, which I think would be the reason to use a ballpeen hammer. Can you confirm that I am supposed to use the ball end of the ballpeen hammer for this? Thanks! B-C OCR, that is some cool artwork! :notworthy That's pretty much the idea. Like I said, I only heat as a last option. I don't like to do that to the steel, and it turns the o-rings/seals inside into a gummy mess. The steel of the cylinder is fairly thin out on the end and is very malleable. Peening with the flat head of the hammer expands the steel giving the clearance need to release gland threads. Start with widly spaced lines as you've drawn. If it doesn't release, repeat process with closer spaced lines. Like I said, I've had to peen the entire end before on really stuck glands, but I usually win.
It is slightly confusing when peening a cylinder a barrel and the name of the hammer to be used is a ball-peen. Either the ball or the flat side can be used to be used to do peening on anything metal. In my previous post I should have been a little more clear about your situation. Yes, the flat side of the hammer should be used.
Thanks Tinkerer for clarifying. If I haven't killed the cylinder already with all of the heat I would like to beat it into submission the correct way.
Hey Guys, I hope you are all doing well tonight! With all of the advice and a ballpeen hammer I finally got that last cylinder rebuilt today! It is crazy to think that after all of the heating, beating, a broken 36 inch barrowed pipe wrench, and anything I could think of doing, that a few minutes beating the correct way with a ballpeen hammer solved this problem. Needless to say that I should have reached out to you Guys sooner!!!!!!! Thanks Guys for all of the help AGAIN! B-Crazy