Hey guys, hope you are all doing fine. I've been doing some research here as my excavator will crank, start once and shutdown in 2 sec.. then it take an hour before it even start again (and die) ,meanwhile it just crank. When I say shutdown it really as if I had turn off the key. It first happen out of nowhere when I was working it, Running 1/2 throttle. I saw some of you talking about the Fuel shutdown solenoid and ide like to try that however, call me noobs, I can't find it. Ps: I've pump the fuel near the engine and fuel will comme up to the filter. So my question is, where is the Fuel solenoid? And anything else I could try ? Best regards guys.
Welcome to HEF JPD ! Mounted to, or next to the injection pump. Post a picture of your injection pump.
Thanks mg2361, you guys on this forum are a great source of information. I wasn't sure where was the injection pump but there is not a lot of panel so I took 3 picture, better safe than sorry. Best regards, JP
Oh I found the repair manual, and I think all my pictures are wrong. It look like it might be behind the motor and I might have to remove a bunch of covers right ?
You can clearly see that part H is the solenoid, which is usually a 3 wire arrangement with two coils inside. One is the "pull" coil, which will have much lower resistance and many times connects right to the starter solenoid and receives power only when cranking. The other is the "hold" coil, and should be active either with key on, or as soon as you bump the starter, and should maintain power while running. many people make the mistake of replacing parts before actually investigating the problem. From the sound of your issues, it would seem the 'pull' side might be working, but the 'hold' may not be getting proper power. As well, the ground for that device should be checked. I would recommend you disconnect the plug for the solenoid and check for resistance for the two coils. I don't know what colors will be so you have to do a little educating here. You can also confirm this is the problem either by simply by watching the solenoid when cranking, or disconnect and manually move the lever to the hold position.
Thanks Fastline, It look like the part my be on the otherside of the engine. According to the picture to you know if the only way to access it is to remove the counterweight? How heavy is that ?(edit: 2800kg) Thanks all JP
Have no idea. I never worked on one of those, but I know how those solenoids work, which is why I recommend to try to disconnect the solenoid wires only for testing. No sense in removing it if that is not even the problem! If you don't understand electrics, you need to get someone competent there to look at it.
Yep perfect, I do understand the electronic I'm just not sure I can reach it event to disconnect it Thanks for the tips fastline. If someone knows a bit the 160lc engine compartment let me know. Meanwhile i'll try to squeeze my arm later tonight
Here is some additional images from the backside, do you guys see the shutdown solenoids , engine doesn't match the manual description ?
With the new photo I did some google search and I figured the pump was a RE568070 which has an internal Solenoid (B). I've charged the batterie and checked the fused, tomorrow I'll try to see if the connector received power. I'll keep you posted, if nothing else just so I don't go crazy
Look close at your pics. One almost looks like a bear wire going to the solenoid. I would highly suspect wiring or connector before the solenoid, especially if problem is intermittent. The mistake people make is not associating voltage and current. If you test with a DMM and unplugged, you might see 12V, but if the wire is pathetic, the current draw from the solenoid can cause voltage to drop dramatically. These are cases where a test light or NOID light are helpful. If you take that plug off and see the green powder of death, you have probably located your issue.
I don't see a throttle connection on that pump, and a "fuel control solenoid" is more than a shut off solenoid. That is an electronically controlled injection pump of some sort, and over my head.
That is a good catch! I really didn't study the thing that close but I believe what we are looking at is mechanical injection but with the modern PMD (pump mounted driver) and electronic fuel solenoid. I now see that black box in the book pictures, but does not appear connected. Usually there is a driver box for the solenoid that modulates duty cycle on the solenoid, which thus changes the fuel pressure and length of injection event, thus fuel amount. OP, if you can confirm this is indeed the case, it will probably change the direction of the diagnostic but wiring should still be combed. What was very common in some systems like this was the PMD or electronic controller for the solenoid.
I did confirm that is likely a Stanadyne DE10 pump and appears to have the stand alone FSD or PMD. One of the first things to look closely at is that the FSD is receiving good power and has a good ground. Then check all wiring extremely good between FS and FSD. Outside of that, you are likely *** and will need to remove the counterweight because you are going to need access. You might chat some people up whether the pump or FSD are more likely to fail. As for my experience with them on a GM, the FSD is what loved to fail but they were mounted in an extremely heat soaked area. Personally, if the machine will sometimes fire and run 'good', I would nearly eliminate the pump. Electronics are notorious for acting up when hot so that might aid diagnosis. But if it runs good when it runs, I would double down on wiring. The way these work is there is a 'drive by wire' deal where there is a variable resistor (throttle) that communicates to the FSD and tells it 'go'. The FSD will then regulate the solenoid. They are notorious for all or nothing behavior. Usually if the pump is truly bad, it will run rough, smoke, etc. These are mechanical indirect injection types so if machine runs clean, that eliminates a LOT of stuff in a hurry.
It's a DE10 Stanadyne electronically controlled pump. You cannot check the solenoid for voltage. It's a Pulse Width Modulated circuit. If you have a DE10, then there is a controller and checking for codes would be the next step. The controller and the diagnostic connector should be behind the left rear door if it is in fact a "CLC". Did you always own this machine? Has the engine been replaced? Painted and incorrect decals installed? The 160"LC" should have an In-Line Bosch style pump. The 160"CLC" went to the pump you are showing. Post a serial number.
Hey Guys, Thanks for helping out. Fastline, Yes the wiring is mest-up, I wend this morning to check the voltage on the pump/solenoid connector (5v when key at on) and the wire is bare naked at some place. That might be a good place to clean After recharging yesterday, making sure the fuel filter and separator didn't had air I tried removing 1 injector to see if fuel was running, It was, and while trying the engine roughly started with a lot of white smoke, I replugged the injector , crank for 15 sec, it started for 30 sec running rough with lot of white smoke coming out it seem from everywhere. Fuel pump: https://youtube.com/shorts/MsPEgXbGFJE?feature=share MG , I recently bought the machine used, it was repainted, the license says 160C and the serial number is It is not stuck at a very good place and winter's coming I'm recharging the battery again, I'll try next time to catch a video if it starts and smoke. Thanks
Can you find the machine serial number plate? that engine serial number might be all MG or somebody needs, I don't know. Good video. Interesting that it ran for 30 seconds now. A video of it running and dying might help? How long have you had this machine? and how many hours have you run it before this problem? did it have any other problems before this?
I need the machine serial number, not the engine. Like Delmer said, post a video of it running and dying.
MG Serial number FF160CX045818 (hope it's the one you looking for, it's on the license) Delmer, Yes my next plan was to get a video of it running I hope to have it in the next 3hours (if it starts). As for how long, I'd say about 1.5 months, 20 to 30 hours. As for the stuff that don't work, it's plenty : loosing coolant, loosing a bit of hydraulic, loosing oil (probably the head gasket according to this forum), blower fan heat / ac not working but it always started flawlessly and ran fine.
note : I wasn't able make it start tonight it just crank for 15 sec, https://youtube.com/shorts/_rsc7iGmRjA?feature=share Meanwhile I'm getting the right 160c test manual to check into your Code suggestion MG
Lack of smoke during cranking is VERY telling.
No smoke = no fuel. So, either the fuel supply to the injection pump is lacking, electrical signal not getting to the injection pump (defective wiring or ECU), or the injection pump itself. Unfortunately, the manual will not do you much good without diagnostic software. On that vintage machine, you can check codes in the monitor for the Pump and Valve Controller, but not the ECU. You have to have either Service Advisor or a J1939 scan tool. The engine codes diagnostic procedures are in the Engine Manual CTM331, not the machine Operation and Test manual TM1932.
Good Evening everyone, hope you are having a good time. I was able to use the 160clc Operation and Test TM1932 to get the diagnostic trouble code as it told me about the x49 enable code jumper and it's location which the CTM331 did not. (but code diagnostic are the same) What I can pull out of this: 3..2....1..8....3..7....3...3....2..5....7..3...and repeat this gives me: active code 18 Engine coolant Temperature Input Voltage High. Sensor circuit open or sensor failed 37 Fuel Temperature Voltage 0 or High Stored code 25 Manifold air temperature Voltage high. Open Harness or Sensor failure check engine light flash 73 Injection Pump Detected Defect. Check engine Light Flashes I believe the code 73 happens and stored then I disconnected the Injection pump power to check the voltage in, as it is a stored code. (am I right? , how can I clear the codes ?) The pump is stiff shooting rope of gaz when I disconnect the pipe, I tried 2 of them. Do you believe one of the Active code would do a electric shutdown and stop the machine to start ? I went ahead and looked at the console diagnostic while at it, but it doesn't give me any error code or information I find relevant. https://youtube.com/shorts/v78ZYPT5fKw?feature=share Meanwhile I'll keep digging into the manual for those errors. Edit : The fuel temperature sensor is part of the protection Shutdown. I guess it means that might most likely be the culprit right ? Regards JP
Weird that both defective sensors are in the same place. But like you guys pointed out, the wired are fuckedup there, that's my next mission.
After all these years, I did not know you could get engine blinking codes jumping the connector. I knew about the hydraulic blinking codes. For engine codes, I have only ever used Service Advisor. That's what I love about this site, no matter how long you have worked on a brand, there is still so much too learn. Thank you for that! Code 73 translates to 1076.05 injection pump open, so yes, you disconnecting that solenoid is the most likely reason. If you have active codes, they cannot be cleared until repaired. I would say you can only clear codes with Service Advisor, but then again, I had said you can't check engine codes without it and I was wrong. So......
With the long list of sensor voltage codes, I would NOT be approaching that machine with a "bunch of bad sensors" mindset. That is likely to be either wiring problems, or supply voltage problems. I will say this, I dealt with a Ford vehicle yrs ago. Long list of sensor codes, voltage low, etc. Most sensors are 5V, and I realized I had like 2V. Not good! I traced that all the way down to a linear regulator chip in the ECM, and I did the impossible and replaced that chip. I only mention because the ECM was not aware it was not outputting bad voltage, it was looking at returns that were well outside of nominal. With all your sensor issues, you bet several of them can either keep machine from running, or even change the injection events! Fuel temp (viscosity) is important when trying to meter fuel.
a little update : That's the coolant sensor connector That's the fuel on : I guess I'm going connector / wire shopping now.. I'll keep you updated
I changed the connector and removed the damages cable, the active engine error code are no more and there is a little smoke going out of the exhaust, I'll called that progress. however I need to boost the battery. Stay tune for the next episode. Jp
I tried with a battery that should have been charged enough but got nothing more that a tiny bit of smoke out of the exhaust. I will try to bleed the Fuel system as I disconnected the pump but meanwhile ide like to know from your experience how likely air in the Fuel lines would make the engine not start? Am I on a wrong direction ? JP
Being an indirect diesel, do you have glow plugs? Are they confirmed working? With all those previous codes you had, I would be looking at everything pretty close. You may not have a certain code present but sensor return values can still be wrong. For instance does display give numeric coolant temp? does it look reasonable? As for air, unless you have cracked the system or it ran out of fuel, that does not seem that likely but I don't know what all has happened. Is cranking smoke white or black?
Thanks for sticking with me guys, I bled the filter, pump and injector, there was a little bit of air but you can see in the video a nice jet at the injectors. https://youtube.com/shorts/2wxuYou4Ck8?feature=share https://youtube.com/shorts/2wxuYou4Ck8?feature=share I went through the manuel I see no mention of a glow plug. There is no numeric coolant temperature, as I crank the analog engine temp gauge moved, but I can say if it's "correct". I could check if the ohm from the sensor where it connect to the ecu make sense. (Writing this I'm asking myself, how the hell do I know that, been watching too much excavator repair video). Looking in to manual it doesn't seem to have any glow plug. The smoke is white, it start after 5 second of cranking and there is not a lot. I removed the air filter to make sure it wasn't the air flow. And double checked the fuses. I loved when i had error code, its straightforward but now I'm running out of idea, next step is to get the wifey to crank when I prime the Fuel, but I don't have a lot of hope it that. Any other idea are welcomed.
You can look at the engine or in the cab to determine if you have glows. If no glows, I recommend a tiny sniff of Ether. White smoke typically means it is getting fuel but not hot enough to light it. All diesels usually have some form of preheat though. Intake heater or glows. You NEVER want to combine Ether with a preheat cycle. Check into it.
If that engine had a cold start, it would be an ether injection into the manifold, so a LITTLE shot of ether won't hurt anything. JD never used glow plugs or manifold heaters, that I've seen. (yanmars don't count) You can try bleeding an injector line at the injector. Loosen the nut just like you did at the injection pump, only at the other end. use two wrenches so you don't bend the pencil injector. I don't see why it's not starting with white smoke, that's fuel and it should start?
Delmer, thanks for chipping in. I try bleeding from the injectors, I did 3 out of 4. https://youtube.com/shorts/2wxuYou4Ck8?feature=share I wanted to use 2 wrench, but for some reason this engine doesn't allow it (i mean thwre is no nut to grab on, might be the previous owner doing) . I flood it with wd40 first and went slowly. It worked. I'll try the ether next. Thanks. JP
It worked? you mean it started? It shouldn't need ether to start if it ran until you shut it off. I have no idea what's wrong with that cranking speed and fuel volume. Have you checked the obvious, like coolant level, oil level, pull that hose off the intake manifold so you know it's getting air.
When i said It worked, I meant I was able to loose the injectors without damaging them. It didn't start I'll have to try ether. I checked the oil, and the coolant is low but there is still a good amount, I'll add some. Can you tell me more about "pull that hose off the intake manifold so you know it's getting air.? " I'm not sure I understand. I'll check the manual but if you have more information that'll be great. JP
You already pulled the air filter. He just wants to confirm it is getting air.
Sounds like there's little load on the engine, or a very good starter and battery. Low load could be from low compression from blocked intake, no air, no fire, and white smoke. Long shot, but it's all I got.
This might be able to help, it is how it sounds when I try ether.
I'm lost. It's getting fuel, you can see it coming out the exhaust. It's getting air because it fires on ether. Sounds like it's turning fast enough, and even if it wasn't, it should have caught with the ether. Only thing I can fall back on is timing. I have no idea how the electronics control timing, or if this could be a slipped timing gear or something oddball like that.
Has this thing EVER actually ran for you? Did you buy it in-op? There are a LOT of things to rule out but if it can ran, and decent, that can really help. On the list currently is injectors and injection timing. Is there evidence someone has been into it? I don't know how to time that engine, but in general, I have seen where people have missed true TDC for timing. A piston will come up to TDC twice per cycle. One on compression, and one on the exhaust stroke. However, a diesel pump like that should be timed off the cam which is 1/2 the RPM of the engine. I mention this because usually a timing mark off the cam drive would be right, but IF someone thought they would be smart and just rotate the engine to say #1 TDC, they could be 180* off. After a little cranking, smell the exhaust to see if it smells like raw diesel. As well, if injectors are not popping at the right pressure, they will inject at the wrong time and usually not 'spray', they will squirt. Not saying any of this is happening, just combing my mental list. If that injection pump looks freshly removed, it would be on my list.
Hey fastline thanks for the mental list. The machine was working fine for 2-3 weeks (the time i had it) and i used it for give or take 20h, no rough idle, always started within 2 sec. It suddenly stopped after 2h of digging, on a 15c autumn day, doesn't seem to be overheating, fuel was about 1/4 full. I'll smell the exhaust next time, but I think it's time I get someone over here before the track freeze in the mud.
Fill the tank to at least 1/2, check if there's a screen in the tank that could be plugged up (jdparts.com), warm up the engine. Long shot, but I'd try it before getting somebody out to do it for you.
Had you ever run the fuel level lower? Are you just banking on an in cab meter? If you pull a fuel filter, inspect that filter for contamination. Do you have a water separator or drain? Something may have happened to the injection pump. I would probably not suspect injectors with new info. Agree with Delmer. Something simple there. What about transfer pump? They will usually deliver pressure to that pump at about 5psi. As well, I do recall those (stanadyne) pumps having a bleeder for air. Might check on that. otherwise you can crank for years.
Hey, I had ran the machine on lower gaz but I'll add more to be sure. I'm filling using 5g tank so it's quit a lot of visite to the station. I was reliably looking at the cab screen for fuel, and I added 40l not so long before, I wasn't on a hill and I'm pretty confident it should be enough but It's worth trying nonetheless, maybe it's siphoning air. The manual suggests bleeding using the return line, which I did. There is 2 fuel filter I had drain the water on both and checked them, but that was at the start of my journey, I'll check again. How do you suggest warming up the motor ? Anything DIY maybe ?
You really should physically verify the tank has about the amount of fuel shown in cab. Not the first time I have seen a lie-o-meter. You should always prime to the pump, then prime the injector lines. Hopefully it's just an out of fuel case.
Fastline, yes I will check the tank. Also priming the pump is a good idea, I did the overflow line but not the line going in. How would you prime the injector line?, the only way I saw was disconnecting the injector and cranking the motor. I'll try another bleeding maybe I've done I wrong.
It seem on that one you prime the pump via the return line. If you have an electric lift pump, this becomes easy. Otherwise, you may not have too many options other than cranking. As for injector lines, exactly what you are already doing other than you only need to crack them, not several turns. I noticed yours were spewing all over so probably don't unscrew as much IMO.
I went back and added 40l of diesel and checked the water separator / fuel filter and bleed them. This was what came of of the water separator when I removed it and the fuel filter As I don't have any spare I empty them and replaced them , but after a few crank the water separator was as dirty (minus the needle) I'm no smelling expert, but the smoke smelled more like burned than diesel. I guess It is not worth trying anything before changing them ? Fastline when you suggested a transfer pump, you mean something external I plug directly in the injector pump (in) to bypass everything before that ? thanks
Drain the tank until you get rid of the contamination.
Are we looking at a five gallon bucket or a quart yogurt container, or what? That looks bad, but it's not really that much water if it stayed in the filter, and the dirt is not that bad either, depending on how much was shaken loose. I think I would wait till you get the new filters before trying it again, and don't fill the new filter, use the priming pump, or crank it with the injection pump off, or pressureize the tank to fill it. At least get a new secondary filter, rinsing the water separator is fine if you can't get it right away.
I say that is nasty, but I agree, I can't really tell what I am looking at. First golden rule with diesels is ensure you have good clean diesel supply. The pump is lubricated with it, and funk can cause all sorts of hell of pump damage to injector clogs. Premium filtration begins to look like a bargain! As for a lift pump, again I don't know your machine, but fuel is either gravity fed to the pump, or usually a low pressure pump is fitted to ensure the pump has good supply. Investigate. I don't think those pumps had much if any ability to vacuum their fuel like some others, but if it does, you need to investigate the fuels lines well as they can pull air and cause hell. To me, it is almost looking like your pump took a mouth full of nasty, and possibly even water.
Is it possible all 4 Injector get clogged at the same time ? Or enough to make it not start ( not even coughing a little) Delmer, I changed both filters a and fill them using the manual primer pump. I had a car mechanic friend over and we bled the 4 injector lines, 1 had a lot of air, the other not so much. But at the end they were all shooting gaz. We crank for days and was only able to maintain it running with ether, the moment we stopped it stops. Fastline I like your idea about the air I'll dig Into this further with the test proposed on the engine manual. It's a fuel supply pump that draw the fuel from the tank.
You mentioned lots of air when bleeding fuel at the injectors. If your low pressure fuel line investigation proves ok. I would suspect an injector with a tip cracked or blown off and compression pumping air back into the injection pump. I have seen it a couple of times.
You will be chasing your tail for weeks if you don't first confirm your fuel supply TO the pump, then bleed injectors. Yes, it is possible a 4 injectors are clogged, but that could only mean severe contamination that made it by all filtration. Most of those injectors have a "last line" filter screen in them. I can't say I have ever seen them all clogged without other fuel system damage. Because if your events, you really need to comb the whole fuel system, starting with the tank. Check/replace the lift pump, test for air from the return line as shown in your pic, etc. All that needs done before you start bleeding injectors. I will admit, I am surprised it has not tried at all. I hate to start recommending certain procedures because it is easy for the armchair guy. I wrench so I realize it's easier to think than create drama. I could say "remove an injector and evaluate it's spray pattern" but that might not even be the issue. Are you sure you have all other codes and sensors worked out? You had a lot, leading me to think there is probably more unseen drama in that machine. You also have to pay close attention to the smoke off a diesel. It is very telling. For all we know, you just smoked your engine and 200psi of compression would tell me everything! I have personally recently dealt with a small diesel with craptastic compression that you just could not start! I rebuilt it and she fires right up! Let's maybe try this, find the crankcase breather for that engine, crank it, and see if you have noticeable air from that while cranking? If so, you should probably do a comp test.
https://youtube.com/shorts/3_4KrWMuTQI?feature=share Not the best video but this is where I am at the moment in the bubble test. Plenty of them. But I'm not 100% sure it's not from my connection I didn't had the correct threading/size so I padded it with teflon, It didn't leak any diesel but still I have to make sure, so I'll figure what is the Fuel line connector and buy the proper one. I bled from the tank to the second stage filter. I'll redo the injection pump. I'm usually resilient, but with snow starting today im getting very tired of this Cheers mate.
Got into a call with a john deere mechanic , he suspect I have 1 injector stuck open and the cylinder would push air into the overflow that would then get back in the injector pump. He suggest I unplug 1 injector line at a time and try to start without it. It would start on 3 injector if I removed the one pushing air in the line. Its a lengthy process as I have to bleed them all on every time I try a new injector. That would be my tomorrow's plan.
If you want to explore that theory, I have a different way. Disconnect the fuel solenoid so you are not pumping fuel for no reason. disconnect all injector lines and set to the side of the injector a bit. Observe a small amount sitting in each injector body. Ensure every one has a little fuel, then have someone give it a quick crank. It should become obvious which one is not sealing. Anything from bubbling in the injector body to a return jet of fuel. If this is what is going on, you have to realize it is rinsing that cylinder bad, and this is what bent rods and blown head gaskets are made of! Do NOT run it like that and make sure to change engine oil when done. Only time I have ever seen injectors do that was from serious fuel issues or pump failure. Inspect the injector inlets for debris.
Love the idea, I'm gonna try that first, way less time consuming and easier to see. Thanks for the tips, I'll keep you postes. I'll remove the fuse for the solenoid that should do it.
Water in the fuel likes to blow injector tips off.
I went ahead and tried your idea Fastline, injector 1-2-3 (all look good) https://youtube.com/shorts/3ymXQ2aHA-8?feature=share injector 4 (blowback party) Look like it leak from there inj = injector fuite = leak I've been told the seal is probably broken, I have to remove the injector assembly, I'll do that
Do I just pull the sucker out? He look very comfortable.
He finally came out.
I'm a bit confused. did you confirm blowback in the fuel supply pipe? A leaking injector stem seal would not cause air in the injection system. That seal, however, could be indication of very high cylinder pressure from raw fuel in there. Just a guess on that. You also really need to sanitize your work area around injectors. A little debris in an injector or fuel line can really tear things up. Can pin injectors open (nailing), ruin their seats, etc.
Ah damn you are right, No I did not confirmed the blowback, I did your test but none of the diesel on the injector line was spraying back. When I saw the the air out of the injector I went on to remove it thinking this has not right.
Well I don't know your current plan but mine would probably be to just get the seals for that injector and put it right back in and see if you have kick back. Even if you replace the injector, you won't know if the other is/was bad. Testing the return rate of fuel from injectors while cranking is also a quick way to troubleshoot injectors but should probably stick to what you have going on. When playing with injectors, the second you crack a fuel line, you have to start thinking like a surgeon. Clean.... and plug all tubes immediately, and have those plugs/plan before you even start. With all that said, you have an injector out! This is the perfect time to test and document the compression in that cylinder!
Since you will be running for parts anyway ,I would pull all the injectors and at minimum plan to change the lower seal on them all. You will also have a good visual of the condition of the tips. Also like fastline suggested , it’s a great time for a compression test.
Good idea, I'll see if I can rent a compression tester. I had a pretty destroyed seal on the pump inlet, I changed that today and installed clear tube on the return line to test for air. The air seem to be gone, but the injector outside the cylinder doesn't spray at all. I have a new one coming up (couldn't find just the seal yesterday, but I did this morning) I'll try that, if the injector still don't spray, it's probably the pump I guess ? But If it spray I'll have to check the 3 others. That's my plan for the next few days. I would be very surprised if it was all Injectors, but I also don't know much The return test is interesting, I'm all plugged up in the return line to probably be able to test. I'll google it. I'll take your surgeon tips more seriously, I have the habit of rushing stuff. Thanks.
This is why I mention about understanding the fuel delivery system. It has been very common for injection pumps to "draw" fuel from the tank. Part of this decision is a ruptured fuel line is less likely to create a big fireball. However,if it draws in air, that will shut your engine down like a light switch. That seal is sure toast.. If you have a noticeable improvement in entrained air in the return line, I'd be inclined to try it.
Hey guys I just want to close this thread, as winter come to an end I was able to get a john deere mechanic to look at the excavator. Turns out it was a faulty wire and connector. The one from the ecu to the injector pump. Some power was enough to get the fuel to the injector. But never properly to build the pressure. He saw it with an open circuit error as we were moving the cables. Thanks all for all your support..