We have a 1996 Case 1840 skidsteer and it has a quirk that we have never been able to figure out. Every 3-6 months the bolts holding the tandem pump on sheer off for no good reason. We have replaced all the splines, all of the bushings, etc and we have no clue what is going on. The mounting plate even had a bit of a wear grove in it, and we had it filled and machined flat, and still broken bolts. Anyone have any suggestions?
if it does it again, take the pump off and put a dial indicator on the mounting plate, sounds like you have something out of true, or the pump is locking up
would this not have been done when we had it machined?
are we talking about the splined coupler with the 4 bolts?
Is the pump support bracket in place at rear of pump?
This seems to be a recurring problem on some machines & others are not affected at all....... When they start breaking those bolts it is difficult to say exactly why, except that the 40xt's had 4 bolts holding the pumps to the adaptor plate instead of the 1840 2 bolt design. Usually the spigot at the front of the pump goes a little 'egg' shaped from running with broken bolts. The best results you can have will be to have the adaptor plate bushed at a machine shop & replace the front cover of the tandem pump assy - make it all a tight fit. Use loctite everywhere, all bolts, even on the spigot.
new to the forum over here and wondering the best solution since my 40xt sheared 3 of the 4 bolts into the crankshaft pulley. I'm assuming pulling the 4 bolts on that pulley while holding it steady will allow me to take this off and drill out the broken studs? Will I damage anything by doing this? Just had to take a **** on me once the snow starts to fly ha!
Welcome to HEF @Bhoe123 If you use an impact gun, those bolts will come out easily, without locking up the engine. I would guess, you will need to buy a new coupling & bolts for this repair, so you could also buy the adaptor as well & just bolt it all back together without dealing with the broken bolts.
It looks like the rubber bushings disintegrated and allowed the bolts to bang around until they snapped off. I had one the same way and managed to "rebuild" it on the cheap with some polyurethane bar stock machined to replace the bushings. But if you need it quick just do as alrman said and replace the coupling, bolts, and adapter at the same time.
Usually bad isolators do it...also check engine mounts..fixed many of them over the years...make sure to use grade 8 bolts....make sure your idle speed is set right...if idle is too low....you will have freq vibrations issues.
Thanks for the info! got it pulled and drilled last night. local case store wants $100.00 for a new one and ebay 50. Guess it's worth it to get it today and done and over with. Will be posting more, this site is awesome!
Does anyone know where to find the torque specs for those 4 bolts on the pulley and connector 4 bolts?
Looking a bit better all cleaned up