trying to adjust neutral settings on a 1845c skid steer cant get one side to stop turning in neutral anybody ever had this problem ???
I put the machine on rail road ties to get the wheels off the ground, you have to determine if it is the pumps fault or linkage issue. Remove the linkage rod to the pump, at the pump on the side that is creeping. I cannot stress the safety and danger while doing this, wheels turning and live hyd, bucket in air with safety bar in place, good safe cribbing and kids/pets/friends out of the way. Start the machine and run with that linkage unhooked, if the machine stops creeping, readjust your linkage from the control lever, rod length, binding control bushings, sticking shock absorbers, need to be checked that they return to the center adjustment on the pump. Now if the machine still moved with the lever unhooked from the pump, we will first check the lock bolt on the servo control adjustment bracket that it is tight and has not moved. More to follow, there is a system used to check and make adjustments.
hey thanks man I actually had cab clear off machine so it was easy once I figured out what I was doing. but before I adjusted the servo bracket I adjusted the bolts in side of tandem pump with locknuts on them then seen slotted holes in servo bracket. do you know what those adjusting screws are in side of pump I think I got them back where they were but cant be certain maybe a relief valve if so do you know what pressure is and where to hook gauge thanks again
Centering the servo piston There are two ways to deactivate the hyd servo control spool, one is to run a hose between the two test ports, this allows equalization of pressure on both ends of the piston even if the control spool is slightly out of adjustment. Caution must be used because excessive misadjustment of the control spool will cause pressure to build up on one end of the piston and create adjustment problems. This is the plug that is on each side in the cover to run the loop. The other way is to remove the restriction orifice and replace it with a plug to totally block the flow of charge oil from getting to the hyd control spool. This prevents any oil from forcing the servo spool off the center position. The thread is special on the orifice, early pumps used 1/16"-36 NPT thread and the later used 1/16"-27 NPT thread. These sizes are not readily available, you may have to order a orifice and braze the hole closed. Once ready to check with the wheels off the ground, start and run at full rpm, using the adjustment you were talking about, rotate to the rt and note the wheels just turning, then to the lt with the wheels just turning, bring the adjustment back to the center of both and lock it down after checking several times. If it takes more than one full turn on the adjusting screw to attain tire rotation in each direction, the internal locking nut at the servo piston centering spring is more than likely misadjusted and then we will get into the servo centering spring spring adjustment again. The norm is to not make adjustments unless you have some back ground on these things, remove the cap and sealing nut, remove the bolts retaining the servo cover in place, rotate the piston end cover off of the servo adjusting screw, tighten or loosen the centering spring lock nut until all looseness is removed from the center spring, if it is to tight or loose, the centering spring will not function correctly, it must be exactly positioned just tight to the spring, it is a pain to get this adjustment and may need to replace the nut to keep it with adequate holding power, install end cap and go back to centering the servo again. Hope this helps will try to find some picks of the pump.