I bought my first piece of equipment a few weeks ago, a 2000 CASE 1845c w/2800 hours. I researched plenty and found this model is well liked, reliable and are easy to work on. So far I have rebuilt all control linkages with oilite bronze bushings I modified on my lathe. The controls are precise and smooth as butter now. The belly is pretty clean but I want to steam clean the belly/pump/engine so I can inspect the hydraulic lines for wear and potential failures. Is the cab removal something that one person can handle? Does it roll out similar to a drawer in a cabinet would? Is it possible to roll it out for access without actually removing the cab from the lower structure? Thanks in advance,
I don't know about Case, but the cabs on most skid steers tilt back. Just pull a couple bolts in the front.
If your 1845C is like the one we had at work it should slid forwards once a few thing are disconnected. Main things I recall were the linkages for the hydraulic valve and the steering levers Seems like there were a couple bolts up high at the rear of ROPS and a couple down low by your toes when sitting in the seat. I would strongly suggest getting hold of an operators manual for this machine as it should have the step by step instructions one doing this. Also will explain how to service the machine and adjust chains. Just doing a quick search online shows one for under $20 with free shipping, best $20 dollars you will spend on this machine! https://www.ebay.com/i/161194458725?chn=ps&dispItem=1 If it has not been moved recently it might move a bit hard a small chain jack should work to pull in forwards and back again.
I just did my 1845C a while back...not hard. 4 - 1/2" bolts and disconnect electrical, throttle, control linkages, aux linkage if equipped. may need to pry it forward a bit, or use a come along...then 1 man can easily roll it forward. The Lift arms have to be all the way in the air to perform the procedure.
Thanks for the info. I wanted to make sure what to expect once the cab moved. As for the manual, i am debating on the eBay CD for $20 vs the paper back manual. I have 4 issues that need addressing. Rear hub/axle housing has a pinched Oring that is leaking chainbox oil. Outer cluster shaft flange has a trashed gasket that's leaking. Fuel sender gasket leaking. Small hydraulic leak at loader cylinder. Thanks again.
Before starting any of that work I would put it up on blocks so all wheels could be removed. That is easy as you can use the machine to do all the heavy work. Find a pair of wood blocks about 2 or 3 inches thicker than the clearance under the chain boxes. Put bucket into the full dump position and put down pressure on it to raise the front end up nice and high. Position the blocks under both sides chain boxes a little bit back from the center of machine. Then raise the boom and if you get the balance point right all four wheels should be off the ground. Be sure to install the safety support to hold the boom up before exiting machine, helps to have a second person for that. Might be a good idea to add an extra block at front and back just to be extra safe.
Another way to get all the wheels off the ground so you don't have a teeter totter is to put blocks under the rear corners of the machine and then use the bucket in dump to lift the front of the machine and block it. That's how I check the chain tension on my machine or remove all 4 wheels.