I am working on a case skid steer that the park brake pulled out of the boss it rides in .The assembly is a piston a spring and a washer the are atached to a cable. The other side looks like it s held in a snap ring. i looked it up in online parts but could not find that type .I think the snap ring sheared off in the grove and left it pull out any ideas how to get the pieces out or alternate fix. thanks thebig hammer
Not sure what you're asking bighammer? Assuming you what to take pieces out, I am guessing the eyes on the circlip are broken & you are having trouble removing it??? Normally the problem on those early designs was that the circlip would never stay in the groove & the spring would have nothing to push against & so no brake operation. More info required.....
what happen was i was replaceing a hose to the left side drive drive motor and push on the lever to get up and it pulled the guts out and riped the boot. if you put your finger in the boss you can feel there is remains of a snap ring in the grove. i tried to pick it out with no luck
It might be easier to update the brake tube to the new style retainer item # 41. All you would have to do is drill a couple 1/8 holes through the pin boss and the staple # 41 goes through the holes and replaces the snapring and then you wont have to mess with the snapring. Plus you drill the holes in the same area the snap goes and it usually will get drilled out in the process or at least broken up to make removal easier. Just get the staple from your Case dealer so you know the drill size and spacing beforehand.
If a dealer is not handy for the staple, I have fitted a single 3/16" roll pin to quite a few. It works well - just remember to drill slightly off centre to allow for the cable.
thanks for the info thehammer
If I may join your thread here....I have an 1845c with both of the large park pin housings broken off from the large drive case. One of the park pin housings is entirely missing and I have oil spilling out, the other side park pin is broken off and lying in the belly. What are my options?
That sounds like a real mess Tom..... If one of those tubes is missing, you will have to fabricate a new one using the one you still have as a sample. To break those off, a lot of force has been applied to them. Make sure the one you have is still straight. I have repaired those in the past. I had new tubes made with a thicker wall thickness & when I welded them in to the chain case - stiffener plates were used on the inside of the chain case. The front axle housings will need to be removed to gain access to weld on the inside of the chain case. Big job...... hope your good with a welder. Goes without saying the chain cases will need a thorough clean after the welding job is done.
You can get the parkbrake tube repair kit from Case part# H675012. It come with a new style tube and staple, strap and instructions.
Thanks for the replies guys. I will be calling my Case dealer this morning to ask about the kit that you have posted.
I just ordered a pair of these, they were only around $45 each. I still may need to order at least one park pin, etc...but this was a great place to start. I love the internet!
Spring will not come out Hi Goose, great info about the parking brake. I had to open it on my 1994 case 1840 since the pin would not engage at all. The staple 41, spacer 37 and washer 46 were fairly easy to remove but the spring 40 would not come out. I was pulling, twisting it every which way but it was firmly stuck while the actual pin was easy to move by pulling or pushing on the cable 33. It became obvious the pin end of the spring became stuck in a disengaged position. It would not push the pin at all towards the sprocket and it would not come out either. It took almost an hour to get it out by unwinding the spring turn after turn and pulling outward. Finally, after stripping my knuckles and wrist etc the spring came out along with spacer 38 still inside the spring but the spring is ruined. My question is: are the several last turns of the spring pin end supposed to be wrapped around the spacer 38 and if yes then in what manner is the spring crossing the spacer's widened end to continue towards the opposite spacer 37 by staple 41? And when reassembling with new spring, how do you compress the spring far enough to be able to insert the staple back to hold the compressed spring? Thanks for any help and hints!
for starters the spacer tube should not have the flaired ens on it. It should be straight and slide freely inside the spring. Looks like you need a new spacer also. As far as reassembling I normally install the boot on the cable and thread it through the tube and install the washer, spring,spacer, nut and pin from the chain box side. Insert the snap or staple and pull everything back to the retainer and slide on the boot. Have the hole in the sprocket lined up with the tube and it works fine.