Does anyone have a trick to removing the cylinder sleeves, I tried to drive one out from the bottom with no luck. The engine is in the tractor, is there a tool I can build ? I had a valve head break off at the stem and beat up the piston and now I need the get the sleeve out and replace it and also the piston. I hope I can get the head rebuild, the seat is beat up too. I'll post some pictures once I download them from the camera.
Yes, a sleeve puller. Made by OTC
Google is your friend "Sleeve Puller" https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=sleeve+puller Look at some of those pictures and you might get an idea on how to make one if you don't have some place that rents tools. I believe the 188D is a wet sleeve engine, been too many years since I did one, so you should only have to pull it an inch or so before it will come out easy.
You could try a bottle jack and a piece of pipe to get it started. You may still have to use a hammer in combination with it. Or you could take the new sleeve to a machine shop and have a plate made to fit it. A long piece of 3/4 inch all thread and some blocking with that plate will work also work.
I made a sleeve puller when I changed the liner rings in a 207 (cousin to the 188-- same block) I made a "bridge" that spanned across the bore and rested on the block. The legs were maybe a couple inches tall. Like Kshansen says, you only have to pull em up an inch or so. All thread and some big truck lug nuts for pulling. I found a piece of metal the right size for the bottom but a big chunk of flat would likely work-- at least mine were not that stuck. Put some copper on the edges if your worried about it. I used B7 grade all thread. roughly equal to grade 8 bolt hardness.
Thanks for the help, I am going to make a puller. Here are some pictures of the head with the valve gone and the sleeve with a groove in it and also the piston, which needs to be replaced. I took the head over to a shop and they are going to call and let me know what it's going to cost to replace the seat and a new valve. I also need a new push rod. where's the best place to get a push rod. valve and gaskets ?
I found this online.
That's very similar to mine except I only had two legs. Looks like it would work great. Push rod is probably easiest at the dealer. Head gasket set is Fel Pro HS8269PT. Anyone that sells fel pro should be able to get you that set. Comes with Head, intake, exhaust, Water pump and a couple other things. I bought a head gasket at the dealer once but it said fel pro right on it so I don't feel the need in this case for dealer parts. Careful with the head bolts. They are different lengths as I'm sure you found out. One of the bolts to the rocker stands has a hole in it for oiling the rockers so it needs to go back where it came from. Lastly, put loctite on the allen bolt behind the water pump so it doesn't back off into the pump impeller. HTH
Thousands of those machines are running without the hollow stud behind the water pump with no ill results. Early we had a rash of head gasket issues till Case got their gaskets nailed down and without the hollow stud and not having to remove the fan and radiator changing gasket time was cut to a minimum. The bolts securing the timing cover to the head are more than adequate to keep it pulled back into place. To install the front gasket take a large screwdriver and drive it between the head flange and the timing cover till the gasket will slide in, start the 3/8" bolts and remove the screwdriver.
Well I Got the sleeve out by building a puller just like the one in the picture above. melben thanks for the trick to getting the gasket between the timing cover and the head, I has wondering what to do about that. I marked all the head bolts so they will go right back in the holes they came out of. Right now I am waiting to hear from the machine shop about the head. I''ll check on gaskets, I don't have a parts book to get p/n numbers, but I'll look around on the internet to see what I can come up with.
www.casece.com/ All Case parts books are online. Have diagrams and everything... I look at em before and during my calls to the dealer to check their stock. Equipment parts source likely also has what you need.
It would be foolish to only replace the valve that dropped... You could end up doing this job again in a short period of time... I would get the head completely rebuilt and do a complete inframe rebuild, you'll be kicking yourself later for not doing it!
I am going to install the cylinder liners, after pulling all of them and inspecting. What do you use for a lub on the o-ring for installation ? I keep hearing don't use an oil base type and use soap or something like that.
I've mostly used vegetable oil unless the manual specifies motor oil, I know some Cummins did that on some orings.
Yair . . . Just a comment to go in a file of useless information. Allis Chalmers had a very specific procedure for installing liners involving the use of engine oil. There was a time allowed to oil the "O"rings and have the liner in and clamped. The theory was that the engine oil caused the "O" ring material to swell which was necessary for a proper seal . . . take too long to get it in there and the "O"rings would swell and be damaged by the installation. Cheers.
Liquid dish soap with a few drops of water in it for extra slickness. Smartest engine guy I know told me what to use. I coated the rings by hand, installed them on the liner, and coated them again on the liner to make sure. No issues yet and that was 3? years ago. Where does the time go.....
If the bores are properly cleaned and the approach at the top smooth it's not problem to install sleeves, I have used everything from hose lube, vaseline to GoJo hand cleaner and they can be pushed in by hand. I get nervous when I see sleeves being hammered in.
I believe Cummins has or did have the same procedure.
I used dish soap and it worked good. The sleeve went right in with no problem , Thanks for all the help so far and I will post as the work continues .
Yair . . . Gotcha kshansen . That's interesting, I thought it was an outdated Allis Chalmers aberration. It did work as one of the fitters apparently pooh pooed the idea and did it his way and we had to drain a couple of gallons of water out of the sump each morning for a few days to finish a job. When we pulled the sump four were dripping . . . not happy. Any old slippery stuff will slip them in there but if the design calls for a chemical reaction then so be it . . . afterwards the boss sacrificed an "O" ring and from memory it doubled in diameter in an hour or so and went quite "tacky" after the application of oil. Cheers.
I Haven't been back on to show my progress, So I finished putting the Head back on after the machine shop rebuild it, I replaced one cylinder and piston, honed and replaced the rings on the others, I pulled all the sleeves and replaced the O-rings, put it all back together and it runs like new. I replaced a lot of other components like water pump etc. The generator isn't putting out, I may think about an alternator. has anyone put one on a 188D and what's the best model to go with ?
Delco 12SI is the common alternator. The only question is do you go with a one wire, or figure out how to wire it up.
Wilson # 90-01-3125. Any parts house ought to be able to do something with that number. A tiny bit more wiring and a 10si from a 70's/80's gm truck will work. That is what came on my 580d factory.
Thanks for the help on the Alt. do I have to build an adapter to mount it to the power steering pump , which has 5/16 bolts and distance between them is different than most alternators.
If you do install the Gm one wire alternator set-up you need to change the voltage regulator in it with a self-exciting one. If you don't do that, you will have to speed the engine up to get the alternator to start charging. Then when the engine idles back down it will not charge at idle speed. Those regulators are readily available to purchase. The conversion is so popular this vendor has sold over 200 regulators. Here is a link to one ----- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delco-10SI-...olt-/190602668418?hash=item2c60cde982&vxp=mtr
Don't know exactly what I put on my old Farmall maybe 20 years ago but it is a Delco with built in regulator and other than the main feed wire to the battery it has another wire that gets powered by an oil pressure switch when oil pressure comes up. And this is a fairly low speed engine and it has worked for all these years, granted it does not need to start a 188D diesel but it does the job. That all said for $10.05 and free shipping for that regulator I'd go for it in a flash if I did not have this one working.
This site has been great help, I am going to get a Delco from Napa and the reg. off of ebay . Is there any way to get a tach to work without a cable ?
I'd bet that Napa has the one wire alternator in stock, no need to build it yourself. There are "compromises" with a one wire alternator, but for an old diesel they work pretty good.
make sure its dinosaur oil, i run mobil 1 in everything and every few years i have to put some old cheap dinosaur oil in my old geo metro to swell seal back up, mobil 1 and other synthetics may not swell them up