Considering whether to repack or replace the original steering cylinders. Replacement cylinders that I've found online have one external hard line from the hose connections thar extends to the front of the cylinder. The cylinders on my tractor don't have external lines on the cylinder. Both hoses connect to the rear end of the cylinder in both cases, but new ones also have an external hard line. I suspect some of the new replacements might be inferior quality so I'm leaning towards repacking the originals. I realize you get new ball joints with a new one. I also notice my original cylinders have a steel cover plate screwed to the end of the cylinder. Does that indicate a certain model for the repack kit? Any advice from someone that has tried both?
Heads up, perfect thread to show which cylinders and installation instructions with awesome pics. thread from 1968 Case 580CK June 12, 2020, How to replace power steering cylinders 1968 580 CK. It was at the top of this section this morning, may add some insight. Did I mention it's got pictures? If you PM the original poster he may even have a source and part #'s.
I did see that post and the last two replies are where I am. Dale was an incredible resource but his web site is down. Has anyone rebuilt these cylinders?
On my 680 yes. I have bought packing from Case and you have what you need when you take it apart most of the time. Also have taken them apart and ordered packing from Hercules Sealing Products. Have to measure, look on line and order. I always call in orders but you do not have to. Save money but the measuring and matching up the correct seals is on you. Causes a few days down time. You may have a local supplier that could match some up for you. I never removed the tubes. just slide the shafts out and packed them on the machine.
If they are small diameter cylinders like on my 480c, I can tell you they can be a little more difficult to rebuild in my experience. Rebuilt all the cylinders on the hoe in the rear, but when I did these I had to do the first one twice and order another kit. These small seals are hard to get in there. Found a trick, especially in the winter, is to put a cup of water in the microwave and heat it till it boils. Then carry it out to the shop and put the seals in the water to soften them up before you try to install them.
These are small ones. The gland has a cover plate screwed on with three screws. Once I removed that there was one snap ring on the inside diameter of the gland and a round wire gland retainer spring (16) between the outside diameter of the gland and the inside diameter of the cylinder. There's a small hole through the cylinder right where the gland retainer seats. I don't know how to compress that retainer ring so the gland will slide out. I'm tempted to buy the Hong Kong replacements complete with new ball joints for $250/pair.
I don't remember clearly what I did, but assume I just took a small screwdriver or pick and kept digging at the retainer till I got it out. Some of them are undersized right at where they split and you can get a sharp tool in there to pry it out. I seem to remember the problem I had was with the ID seal on part #7. You have to pretty much crush the seal to get it in there. Looking at it during round 2, I figured the factory put the seal in first, and then pressed the brass bushing in afterward.
It doesn't look like there's enough clearance to pull the retainer ring out with the gland still in the cylinder. I was thinking it needs to be compressed like a piston ring and pulled out with the gland. It's not the type of split retainer that you work it out moving around the gland.