Good Day, The old iron project has been coming along. I am to the point where I need some brakes. From the looks of the brake housing I have a large amount of gear oil leaking into the brake housing and running out of the control rod opening in the housing. I went to the case site and looked for figured listings surrounding the brake area, The only place I found a seal remotely close to the leaking area was on the figure 113A Differtial without lock page. In the parts breakdown a seal #A39273 Seal - oil, bearing carrier, was the only place that looked like it might be the one I need to fix the problem. If anybody has a correct number or can verify please do. It appears to have new housings and internal parts that are oil soaked. Seals might fix her up. Thanks DBar
You have probably got the machine fixed by now, but In case you have not, I will put in my two cents. I put brakes on my 580 CK a coulpe of summers ago. There is only one seal that will leak gear oil into the brakes. I replaced both of mine and bought them from the Case dealer. The seal on the left side of the machine is a bear to put on. I destroyed two of them until I wraped .001 thousands shim stock around the splined shaft and overlapped onto the smooth shaft where the seal sits. I used scotch tape to hold the shim stock in place. No more oil leaking, I should have done it a couple of years earlier.
Sorry to resurrect this thread guys, but I am doing this right now. What is the best way to get these seals out of the carriers? Can they be removed without removing the diff carriers?? Is there a tool that works best for this? I had already thought of using shim stock to cover the splines, that is a good point. Thanks in advance, Dave
Drill holes in the seals & install long self tapping screws & use pliers. or fabricate a small slide hammer with a self tapping screw welded on the end. If the side gears have any end float you will have to remove some shims ..... RHS only - & try to check crownwheel backlash .006" - .011"
Alrman, thank you for the information!! I took the top plate off of the differential to have a look yesterday just for those reasons. I have heard of the rivets getting loose on the ring (some call crown) gear due to bad brakes and using the shuttle to stop he tractor. The ring rivets are good and tight, I could not move the carrier side to side by hand so I used a pry bar to put a little more pressure on it. It does have minimal side movement if pushed. One concern is the pinion bearing seems to have some play, I know from building differentials for mu Jeeps that dosen't seem correct. The tooth patterns on the ring and pinion look really good, I would think if there was an issue there I would see problems in the pattern?? I would assume I have to use pliers, I don't think I can get a side hammer in there with the loader frames, etc.... I have a seal puller, but don't have enough room for that either, plus it will not reach that far back in the carrier plate. Thanks again! Dave
One more correction, I have a 580B not the 580... I just noticed that. Dave
To tighten the pinion shaft, remove the front cover & tighten the nut on the pinion shaft. Hopefully, bearings are OK. If the gasket gets damaged during removal, you will need to make another from same thickness paper or if you use sealant only you will need to adjust shim pack for the top shaft, as the gasket is part of the spacing for the assembly.
Alrman, 'Front Cover' as in the torque tube cover?? The cover with the shuttle control valve mounted to it?? Thanks again, Dave
Sorry dwloop ..........it's a 580B ! (B looks like D when you can't see) It was early in the morn here when I replied ........... you will have trouble trying to tighten that nut without splitting the tractor......
Thats what I thought... It may have to run that way for a while.... Thanks again! Dave
Alrman, I need to remove the carrier plates... About 0.020" float when I checked correctly. I wonder who had the great idea to use a tapered phillips head bolt that rusts and get wollered out to hold said plate! How have you done this before, as I am sure these all turn out the same way. Try to use a punch and drive the bolt head around? Then drill it out and helicoil?? Thanks again, Dave
Generally, they will come out if you give them a couple of good hits with a hammer & a punch a little smaller than the head of the screw. If slots are gone, use a chisel to try & get it moving. A touch of heat may even help.
Alrman, You think it would hurt to use one of tricks I use on the rusted, rounded off bolts I find on my old Jeeps... Weld a nut to the top?? That applies heat and then gives more area to turn... I plan on replacing the phillips head with grade 8 allen head, tapered bolts. Thanks Dave
That could work Dave, sounds like a plan.
The way I removed my tapered philli's head screws was with a impact screw remover. That's not the correct name but I could not think of anything else to call it. I put in a phillips bit that fit the screw, the driver was the perfect length so I could put a piece of steel between the the tool and the tractor frame and push the tool into the screw. I then put a cresent wrench on the tool and turned out the screw, or at least got it started so it could be turned by hand. It worked for me, might work for you. Good luck
Have done many of those and never try taking screws out without heating them bright red with acetylene torch. They screw out practically by hand if heated. Mel
guys im in the leaking seal boat to buu when i got there breake drum was missing balls and spings to on left side think its gonna cost to muck to resrect the breakes how much trouble is it to remove the carrier
hellooooooooo please need some help any body
Start reading on page one, there is a lot of help. If you have got it disassembled so you can see the two balls you must have it apart. Getting the screws out so you can get to the seal was even discussed. Once you put a new seal in the piece that I think is referred to as the carrier you install the carrier as was discussed. what else do you need? I have only done this once so my memory is not too good.
Ok, I need to report on how this came out for me. It has been a little while (Deer season, Thanksgiving, etc), but I finally got her back together yesterday a drove her in the rain... I have brakes!!! Long story short, it had .020" float in the carrier, so I removed the carrier plates. When I did that the shims were rusted so bad they fell apart, so I ended up buying new shims at @$14 each!! ... Reset the backlash and carrier preload with new shims. Just as well, because the carrier plates and shafts needed to be cleaned thoroughly, they would not have held a seal. I used emery on the shafts to clean the rust off. While the top was off, cleaned the differential case and checked everything. Found I have some (0.010") float in the pinion shaft, so that means a tractor break sometime in the future. Probably will just rebuild the shuttle when that happens. The differential is much quieter at road speed than it was before, so it must have helped. I ended up carefully mig welding a 3/8" X 1" bolt to the face of the phillips screws that held the carrier plates, both of them were rusted in hard. Some things I learned while doing this: - There are drains, both in the brake housing AND the carrier plates. - Both the housing and carrier plates had a thick coating of rust that needed to be taken off, I used a 4" grinder with 120 grit flap wheels to knock it down so the new brakes could seat. - If you have to re-shim, remember that the side gears in the differential have to be shimed for proper clearance as well!! Mine were good, but it needs to be checked. - Heli coils are our freinds!! Busted several bolts along the way. I hope this helps someone else that tackles this job. Dave