Hello All, I just recently purchased a '68 530 Construction King backhoe. It starts and runs great as well as the hydraulics. The problem, It wont move.. I put out my stabilizers to lift the rear end up to check to see if maybe it was an axel. When I put it in gear and let off the clutch it takes time but eventually the wheels start to spin fairly fast. I can grab the tires with my hand and stop the wheels from turning while its in gear. I have took off the inspection plate for my dry clutch to look inside to see if I can see anything out of the ordinary but it all looks good besides it had old oil think clunked up oil in it. I sprayed brake cleaner in it to clean it out of all the old oil that had got in there. My question is, What could this be? What should I check next?
If there is oil in the bell housing area and it supposed to be a dry clutch then you have a problem. Is there a valve setup under the fuel tank and the clutch pedal attaches to a valve there.
I will go check that today. I have a lever on the left for reverse and forward. Than I have one on the right for low and high Than I have the gears 1-4 I have to push the clutch in to change gears and let out to drive. When I spin the rear wheels the other one spins the opposite way. It acts like it wants to go but wont. When its off the ground the wheels take a couple seconds but than spin fast but I can stop them with my hand. I am going by what the old owner told me, How would I know if its not a dry clutch? Thank you a ton!!!!
Ok just wanted to clear that up. The only thing you can do is split the backhoe right behind the engine and replace the clutch and replace the shaft seal and shaft hub gasket while you are in there.
Very common problem with old Case backhoes. Heavy machine, small diameter flywheel. Clutch/shuttle was the weakest point on those otherwise excellent machines. When you get it fixed, baby the clutch.
Thank you guy! I much appreciate it
When splitting it, Do I have to take off the front loader and the backhoe attachment?
No you do not, just raise it up and block it with a piece of 1/4"x2" angle iron. Then block the frame with jack stands and transmission housing behind bell housing, disconnect hydraulic lines in front of radiator, unbolt loader frame radiator support, block front bolster with 2x4s so engine won't swivel. Of course remove hood, air cleaner, fuel lines, throttle rod and steering lines. Remove starter and bolts around bell housing be sure and put floor jack under oil pan to support engine. You can roll engine assembly out then. Be safe and don't forget stupid stuff happens.
Thanks Coy! That's great advice.
Seven hour job. That's what it took me last time I did one....in 1982. Now it would take me a week.
I used to do the dry clutch in 4hrs, but I was a lot younger then lol