My 1968 won't go into after it gets warm will go in reverse. Goes in fwd when cold. Tried changing fluid and cleaning screen had no luck i have fwd and reverse clutch plates for it but would like to know for sure before I drop the transmision out of it
Good morning David; can you post a serial number and photo of tranny? I'm assuming that when you said that your machine won't go into forward you meant it won't move when shifted into forward. I believe the 680E had a Clark shuttle in it. There should be test ports on top of control valve so you can test pressures, I would do that first.
Sure sn# 9114752 and are you referring to cooler bypass valve
Welcome to HEF, David ! Do you have the service manual ? This is just one page of what you need. Coy will guide you through the test procedure .
I do have the full manual. I need to buy a pressure gage first thanks for responding i greatly appreciate r h us help couldn't find very many places that work on older backhoes ill read the manual section on the test and I think there's a Data sheet if so ill make a copy and post any questions maybe I can post some pictures sobid someone else runs into this in the future
Pressure gage came in the mail I started with the stall checks specified in the manual. I believe that the converter stall failed. I had the clutch cut out switch in drive, transmission in 4th and the loader and stabilizers down just enough to not let it move then put it in fwd and held the gas with a timer set the engine never stalled and trans fluid started to over heat and blow out of the dip stick spout. Thus leading me to belive the stall may be higher then the tolerance set in the manual at 2000 rpm witch appears to be the red line for the motor
What is your no load RPM
My no load rpm was around 2100 but
Ran test one came back with low numbers is it worth it to continue to test 2
Converter works the same in reverse as forward, same pressure regulator used in both. I suspect bad clutches and seals on clutch pistons in the forward clutch.
Always do all of the test. Your no load engine speed should be around 2350 rpm. Was the machine at operating temp?
I'll go back and try again tommorow I need a 1/4" reducer to administer test#2. I have reason to believe my tempature gage is busted it was reading 140 and didn't change at all during The test or stall check
I could be wrong , it has been many years since I was involved with that transmission but if flow to the clutches is cut off by the F&R shifter being in neutral that should let you know what the system pressure is without clutch leakage if I am correct. That does not hold true for more recent units that use a modulating piston to give a softer engagement. As Coy has stated, do all the tests and maybe do a cold test and then with hot oil. A hot test will show leakages much better which will equate to lower pressures at hot oil conditions.
Started over so far only did the first two tests waiting for my friend to show up to lend a hand where it says clutch cut out i imagine it wanted me to test both fwd and rev with the clutch cut out in neutral
Pretty much looks like a shuttle rebuild and a new pump along with a torque converter
Thats what it seems to me too if I rebuild the clutch ill have it down I can clean the spools witch if there gummed wouldnt hurt. any idea as where to buy the pump and tourqe convertor I have clutch plates already and I think I found the seals already can I just buy a new pump dose it have to be model specific
If you can get mfg, s/n and model that will give you other places to search other than Case. Get the Case part numbers if you have parts book or through dealer. Then do internet search and see what you can find.
The most knowledgeable Case Parts man I know is Dale Wiess. He closed his Case dealership, but is still selling NOS, used and aftermarket parts. http://www.e-backhoeparts.com/
Wanted to post a few pics of the parts on here any of you guys have any advice about removing the pressure plates after I removed snap ring retainer and snap ring I thought the springs inside would push out the plate but even after careful hammering I can't seem to get them to push out