I am replacing the brakes on this backhoe, I am replacing a seal and an o-ring, I am trying to pull the carrier assembly, number 18 in the pic. The seal is still in there, I have removed all the bolts of course but the stud that is used by one of the brake nuts is still in place, I tried to remove it but it would not budge, I removed the one large phillips screw that seemed to hold this carrier in place, this part is also one of the brake surfaces. I am removing it in order to more easily service the seal ? as it is very tight working area to try to get the seal out with the carrier in place. I have chased around the cast iron carrier with two large screw drivers and a hammer, it has worked out about 1/4 inch. I'm posting to make sure I am not removing something that I should not be removing (ie if you remove that you have to split the tractor to get it back on , or, that piece is not intended to be removed that way, or you wont be able to get it back on due to that bearing etc etc.
actually, the pic shows the wrong part, I am pulling the other carrier, number 16, but I also intend to pull 18 in order to service that seal and o ring as well
ok,,,, so i read these HeavyEquipmentForums HeavyEquipmentForums HeavyEquipmentForums HeavyEquipmentForums and here is what i came away with. 1- I should keep working my way around that carrier and remove it. 2- i have removed both brakes, i should reinstall the opposite brake and engage it fully so as to keep the driveline centered (and i should do this before i complete one above) 3- after removing the carrier and the seal, i should reinstall the carrier with no seal. 4- reinstall the brake and engage it 5- go to the opposite side, disengage the brake and remove it, remove the carrier, the seal, install the carrier with no seal, then install the seal, and final install on brake, and engage it. 6- return to the side i actually removed first, disengage the brake and remove it, install a new seal, and do a final reinstall of the new brake. now, as far as any lash is concerned and fiber vs steel shims, i am lost, is that part of this service, does it have to be done prior to brakes being installed and closed up or is that part of removing the axles ?
I'll be watching this post. I have the same issue, noticing oil on rear right wheel and the brakes just don't work in general.
i got the right side brake off previously, i reinstalled the left side brake and activated it first. to remove part 16 that houses the seal and large o ring on the right brake i had to climb on top of the tractor and use a screw driver and mallet and tap to get it started out, then climb under and do the same, by the time i did this about 20 times i was using large pickle forks for taking tie rods off cars. i had to tap it off all the way out. patients and light tapping and keep the pressure even top and bottom. i have two parts i forgot i ordered, item 10 above, which is most likely where all the real oil is coming from and not seal 20. i am right now figuring out what i have to disassemble to get to seals 10, there are two of them and only on the right side. inspection of ring gears and other gears shows some wear but no damage, bearing race 17 is showing slight some pitting but this trans was full of water and the wrong thin fluid when i got it still lost on all that checking of space and thrust washer etc as far as what needs to be checked and done
as for parts, i got my brakes at juniorsparts.com as they were 100 dollars a side cheaper than everyone else, also the seals and o rings were cheaper / competitive to all i shopped at. i spent two days checking parts and ended up also using epsstore.com colemanequip.com crosscreektractor.com tractorpartsasap.com it took 2 days to order because i put all the parts in excel, then found which parts were unavailable available only at one place available at more than one place and noted prices then built orders and added shipping to compare when i was done i saved over $3,000 by putting some effort into the order research (mostly due to some ridiculous pricing, not necessarily from the above vendors , eg exhaust manifold 1200 versus 400)
so after reading the very few posts on those seals in the diff lock, it appears the only way to replace them is to pull the right axle and final drive gear, so as to allow the removal of the shaft those 2 seals install on, i noted previously, 10 above.
i found this... I sacrifice a cheap 90 degree o ring pick and shorten the tip and slightly flatten it and insert it between the two shafts and under the seal lip and turn it 1/4 turn and use side cutters to grab the shaft of the pick and use the end of the shaft as a fulcrum point to lever it out. You should measure how deep the seal is in and make a driver out of exhaust tubing with a stainless steer hose clamp located as a stop to keep from driving it to deep. We dealers have a special tool to drive them but some applications will not allow it's use. I can see removing the main brake shaft seal with a sheet metal screw but never considered doing it with the diff lock shaft seal.
so i looked inside the shafts with a camera, i can see oil i see the seals, probably all the oil on the brake was coming from here and no other seals. i have this rolled plastic very thin and strong from a honda insight traction battery, it fits around the spline shaft and will protect the seal on install then you just pull the plastic out i pushed the plastic into the shaft and marked it, the first seal is 1/2 inch into the shafts. i found a smaller flat screwdriver, i am going to grind the end into an L shaped hook and insert it into the shaft and under the rubber lip of the seal and see if i can pull it out.
This video isnt up yet (its uploading an hour to go), but i have to get back to work on the hoe, i am going to work on pulling and installing the new diff lock seals, i am thinking i am going to go ahead and re assemble the rear end, and then later i may pull it apart and do a major overhaul and set lashes etc. for my use i am not planning on putting lots of miles on it in movement. my special tool didnt work but pulling the two huge bull gears to give me room to get the shift lock out wasnt that big a deal took 10 minutes, do NOT reuse the cotter pins on the bull gears, thats probably why those russia youtube videos show backhoes losing rear wheels and axles on the highways
i seriously doubt you can pull those seals out with a tool, i had to use a socket and a hammer to get them out.
That’s a lot of info. Thank you. Good video too
my plan now is to reassemble and run it, im mostly digging not driving, this winter ill pull the rear replace bearings seals and ring pinion, whch means ill pull the 4 speed cause thats where the pinion slop is, and probably pull the power shift and replace the clutches bearings etc.
the brakes i got from junior that were 100 less than everywhere would not fit the shaft, the splines appeared to be cut more triangular and not more rectangular, they would go on 1/4 inch and get so tight i knew i would never get them off without breaking the tractor in half to make room for a puller, instead of returning them i disassembled them and used my old inner cogs and one brake side, so i will have one new disc pad and two new drum pads with new pinballs in old grooves..
as for that play in the pinion, thats a shaft in the four speed, i think it has a nut on the other end ? im wondering if that can be gotten to in order to tighten it without pulling the trans ? like from the power shuttle side ?
Way beyond me lol. The 580b is my first tractor and literally the first one I’ve ever operated. I’m an electrician by trade and fairly handy but have never worked on heavy equipment. I’m just learning as I go with the tractor, if something breaks I fix it. My lower throttle linkage shaft sheared in half, had to pull the fuel tank, air cleaner, valve cover etc to get at it. Other than that it’s been hoses, repacking cylinders, fluid changes etc.
well this is the first tractor iv torn into, i have 3 but havent worked on them. i figured i would go big or go home i have lots of small house repairs and creek to relocate all require digging, i figured i would rather own than rent and do it at my leisure. i considered a 3 point hoe for the tractors but was told they can split your tractor in half, so i went for a 580b thats was cheap. it had to start, move and dig, i didnt specify it had to stop
on the brakes from juniors, the other one worked fine, so it must have been a machinery defect in the splines that were cut in the other one, i should have tried the other found it worked and sent the other back for an exchange. still a good buy, saved 200 bucks over other outlets.
fyi juniors told me i could have sent that defective drum back and thanked me for letting them know,
Tracing, just checking up to see how you made out with the project?
WELL IT WAS A MULTI PROJECT LOL... but it turned out great and is working like new, still have some issues to resolve but none that prevent me from using the machine, juniors brakes worked out great, its great to have brake lol