I am great need of help. First of all I am a backhoe owner with very little mechanical experience. Scary huh?? Here's my problem and issues i've found. My hoe just recently started not wanting to move when letting out clutch. If perfectly level ground or down hill no problem other than that it struggles bigtime. It also has a tendancy to pop out of gear once in awhile but not always. Always forward gear tho. Problems I have found is the oil (trans) i take it that the dipstick is underneath the the floor by shifter is very very thick and milky. Creamy off white. problem 2 is below clutch linkage on side of transmission there is a 2 prong connector that a wire has been pulled out of. Not been able to find in my book what that controls. The hoe is fairly new to me and not sure where all the filters are as far as tranny and other screens and so on that could be clogged causing this problem along with milky fluids. Hydro fluid also milky too. just wanting info on that connector and where i should start to solve the issue. This has a mechanical shuttle, would this have a torque converter or direct drive? Popping out of gear it did earlier to me and found that it was a loose set screw inside shuttle fork on control rod. Its tight now but still popping out of fwd quite a bit. Could it be linkage related. I also had no freeplay in clutch pedal and loosened that up some but still doesnt want to go. Please help in anyway you can where to start. Thanks
Any direction would be helpful.
Welcome to HEF PAwrestling#1! 580C's don't have a clutch, they use a torque convertor & shuttle transmission. The left pedal you are pushing would be a brake & your declutch / trans cut-out must still work! First thing to check is oil level for the shuttle - dipstick located rear of engine RHS near starter motor. Must be checked with engine idling & in neutral. Should be filled with a 10 grade trans oil or 68 grade hydraulic oil will do. Do not use ATF. Your milky transaxle oil should be drained. Then put 10lt of diesel in it & run the machine while on the stabilizers for a while to give it a good flush & then drain & refill with 90 grade, near 20lts required. Water is probably getting in via a perished boot around the gearshift lever - make sure it is OK. The popping out of gear - I assume it is FNR lever you are talking about & not 4 speed? - If so the detent mechanism on the 580C were not too good. 1) check that the trans cut-out solenoid is tight. located on the LH side of the shuttle, a cylinder (about the size of a can of beans) 2) if your engine mounts are bad, the engine will move around excessively & shake the lever back to neutral - if this is a problem, new mounts will be needed. 3) If the above check out OK - you could upgrade to a 580D/E detent setup - some mechanical skills maybe req The broken wire you have is the neutral start switch.Your machine is likely starting in fwd or rev due to wires near the switch being joined together. Can be a little dangerous if started by an inexperienced operator.
Hey alrman, they do have engine clutches on the mech shuttles on the 580C, it was not offered on the D series and up. We are going to need some more info, their was a lot of C's here with the mech shuttle at one time.
Live & learn sheepfoot! Never seen one over here......
I've never seen a backhoe (Case, cat, deere) that wasn't a shuttle shift
From what I'm told I do have a mechanical shuttle???
Well I found out this much. Its a mechanical shuttle with dry clutch??
The clutch pedal should have 1 1/2 to 2 " free travel, adjust the clutch rod length as needed, if the unit still slips or if the pedal stays tight ( no free travel with pressure felt at the top just touching with your foot) release bearing could be putting pressure on the pressure plate levers causing it to slip, also a worn clutch disc with no thickness left, heavy wear on the pressure plate surface along with flywheel wear can mean the clutch job is needed. The shuttle holds two quarts of TCH fluid, with one drain at the rear and fill plug on the lh side, both the dual range and mech shuttle have a common reservoir. The synchronizer in the F/R could also be going bad with the jumping out of forward along with the detent. Your lever on the floor is your high/low range, forward is low and back is high.
And yes to the linkage, if when shifted either F or R it needs to be in full detent. Worn gears with taper can also put enough force to make it jump out of gear, is it doing this in the high or low range and what gear mostly
I pretty much only have been running it in 1st gear due to the slipping.. And im prestty sure my pedal still doesnt have enough free travel. I will try adjusting it more. You guys have been alot of help. I love forums like this where ppl share their knowledge or experiences theyve had. I plan on doing lots of work on it this weekend. Couple other questions, would brakes have anything to do with dragging this down? this thing hasnt had brakes since I got it. **** poor breaks anyways and need replaced and Ive been limping along and was hoping to get by til fall then do them but could they be siezing up. Think I read a thread on here with similar issues. And being a new machine to me what all filters and fluids do I need to change or clean as far as tranny and hydraulics. hydraulics I have fluid for but tranny what type of fluid doo I need other than case type. And is there any filters or screens associated with this problem I should clean or replace
are clutch jobs difficult on this setup
O.K. I think I might have found something. I got the hoe completely off the ground with shifter in 1st gear and shuttle in fwd. hoe not running. I grabbed the driveshaft coming out of shuttle and tried turning it. Solid. I then gave it a quick turn in opposite direction and then back in first direction and itll turn maybe1/4 turn slipping over gears. Could my linkage be not fully engaging and if so this is probably just the problem of popping out of gear and not the slow movement when on an incline?? I put freeplay in clutch pedal last night, enough that the clutch pedal sits 2 to 2 1/2 inches lower than my other pedals now and i can lift it up with my foot. Is there a way or what do I do to pinpoint this to clutch? Is there anything I can do to test clutch or how do you determine the clutch is the problem before yanking it out? Taking dust cover off, can you see anything then?
With a mech shuttle it's in gear or out of gear, if with the wheels off the ground and your turn the drive shaft, the engine will turn, and one wheel will turn on the rear axle. If you turn the drive shaft and the rear wheel turns and the engine does not, then the clutch is slipping or being released by pressure of the release bearing tight on the pressure plate levers. When starting with a new clutch, the clutch pedal spring holds the pedal up, free travel is the distance form pedal up until you just feel the release bearing make contact with the pressure plate levers. This is the 1 1/2- 2" travel, while depressing to the floor and placing in gear the grab will be close within 1- 2" from the floor, as the clutch and pressure plate wear, it will in gauge at a higher height until it gets to the point there is no free travel left. Now we are back to the adjust the free travel, to maintain the distance, get the release bearing off the pressure plate levers. and put the correct travel back because a riding release bearing will slip a clutch, cause the release bearing to fail, over time. So if you adjust the clutch, put the range in low gear, trans in first, place in forward, place bucket against a good solid tree and let the clutch out, A) machine digs a hole with rear tires, B) machine sits and does nothing and engine still runs, C) machine lugs down and engine shuts off. If B) happens pull the clutch and replace it.
well i did the solid tree test, forward in 1st gear, low range, 2000 rpm's and left clutch out. Nothing just sat there and idled no spinning of tires or bogging down.