Have a 941b with 3304 engine. Started it up and injector,line,and sleeve came out of engine. Picture attatched. Looking for an exploded diagram and information for reinstall or replacement. Thanks in advance!
Looks like the threaded end of your precup broke. It happens.....dont replace it with a classic....get genuine. Find yhe spacer that was there, you will need it. I cant see the part in the pic very well but it looks similar to a precup. You will lose antifreeze if it is
Gonna need a head for that.
I'll vouch for avoiding Classic parts. Bought a spacer plate one time and I could have built a more precise one out of flat bar and a torch lmfao.
In the meantime I would make sure that cylinder is cleared Of all the coolant. Don’t wanna let it sit in that cylinder also don’t want to see it seep into the crank case bad news for the lower
Removed injector from line to get a good view into head. Partof injector cup is still in the head. What is the best method to remove or would I be better off replacing head with complete with precups?
Use an extractor for broken bolts. I've done it many times and it is relatively simple to do.
Just make sure you don’t scratch or damage the surface where the spacer/sealing ring seats
Also, you really should go ahead and replace all the other precups and seals. The others will be weak at this point and could go at any time. Again.....DONT BUY THE CLASSIC OR AFTERMARKET PRECUPS!! I have several times in the past and a majority of them break off in the head before they reach the torque spec. Those precups are timed between 10 and 2 o'clock using spacers of different thicknesses. .........referencing 12 o'clock straight at the valve cover. You will need the special tool to install the precups to their final torque of 150 ft/lbs (If I remember correctly). The tool is a splined bolt that fits inside the precup. Install new seals on all and make sure the seal surface is cleaned on each in the head. Keep each spacer from under each precup with the right hole it came from...........sometimes you get lucky using the same spacer and the cup is clocked right when you get to that final torque.
The glow plug hole is your clock reference. My post wouldn’t let me edit that in.
If you replace the glow plugs go genuine also. The aftermarket ones come apart. Also I like to use non-Petrolium lube for the o-rings And bleed the air out of the head when refilling water. I usually run water in it for a little bit after repairs to make sure everything‘s gonna hold and then put the coolant in later after you know it’s good.Unless it’s freezing outside
tool # 5f8353 is used to pull and install pre chambers, if the threads broke off you could try a large easy out, its gonna have too be at least about 5" long and very robust, hopefully you can extract broken end without pulling head, threads snapping off is pretty rare but i guess it does happen,go back with anti seize on threads ,good luck. fest
A blower drive shaft from a Detroit 8V-92 is the same spline as the pre-cups. I discovered, on a wet, cold, lonely evening, upon the rocky shores of Long Island in the Alexander Archipelago. Once welded to an impact socket, it got the job done. After surviving that adventure, a 5F8353 became a constant travel companion.
Thanks for all the info. Going to try and extract the broken piece without pulling head. I just feel it might be best to replace head and all precup chanbers for long term. Cat website list bare head for $2700 and chambers for $210 each hate to put that much into a 40 year old machine that is only used on farm
the rest of the precups are going to look like that one . You a going to have a tough time getting them out. If you go for a head go for a loaded recon head,it will be ready to put on. Bad Bob
are my eyes deceiving me that injector/valve don't look like a pc type it looks like a pencil injector ?.somethin ain't right about that top picture in post #14 i may be crazy it looks like a direct injector in a pc housing . someone tell me if iam wrong please .a pc valve should seat near the threaded end of pc chamber if iam correct that injector is way above that area, and yes you can't beat original cat parts,that bad chamber looks like it was defective from the get go, maybe over torqued or most likely (water corrosion) also it looks like it broke where one of the o rings mounts it may have been machined too much it looks very thin there , put in what you can afford $35.00 as. too $210.00 is quite a difference, a $40.00 head gasket and 4 new chambers and be done with it,also try too use cat o rings if you can , the head should be o.k. there built very robust, fest
No pencil nozzle, that’s the glow plug hole.
Went through local cat dealer and ordered loaded head, new injectors, glow plugs, and all gaskets. Decided it would be best for the long haul. Price was reasonable being from the dealer. $2600. Thanks for all the info. Now to flush the crankcase as the oil is milky due to the water that got in from the injector cup being broken and get it all put back together moving dirt!
It's called electrolysis. Its common and Cat has a coolant additive that can be added into cooling systems as a preventative.
If your pre-cups are bad, your cyl liners may not be far behind
yes there is the term called electrolysis, 2 dissimilar metals will cause that, i.e. aluminum and steel "ferrous and nonferrous" also there is a term called "cavitation" erosion witch will causes small bubbles to form on the outside of liners then implode and eat away at the liner. there is a treatment called nalcool , napacool and wixcool #24058 and one from caterpillar also that would be highly recommended too stop any further damage from pitting just "do not over do it with this stuff" follow directions ,the use of straight tap water is about the worst that one can use but if in a pinch use distilled or filtered water ,the reason i did not mention electrolysis is my spelling in terrible so i just mentioned corrosion , fest
Something to consider. What sort of coolant (if any) are you using in it.?
The OP would be better off just switching to pre-mix Cat ELC, vs the HEF trying to explain nitrates and molybdate based additive technology. Which, we hash out in excruciating detail, bi-annually.
I agree. I was trying to establish if he was using anything at all and idly wondering (if that was the case) if in the long-term it could have had anything to do with the problem........
We were typing at the same time, Nige. Lol
If the cooling system had been maintained, we wouldn’t be having this conversation. This unfortunate circumstance provided us the opportunity to hang out, meet Mr. Pipelayr and learn about his broken 941B. It’s a win-win. The local Cat dealer made a few bucks, we had a few laughs, shed a few tears.