I just picked up a C7000 this past weekend and it made the 2 hour drive home with no issues. Steady Interstate cruise at between 60 - 70 MPH. Here she is: This is my first medium-duty truck and it has air-brakes, which are also new to me. Per the labels in the glove box, it is configured as follows: It has new tries all around (11R22.5), it does not leak air and both front and rear systems are at 120 PSI. I plan to replace all the fluids, and I have picked up the following so far: 427 big block Engine: Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 10 Quarts Clark CL551 Transmission: NAPA PREM PERF Gear Oil SAE 80W-90 8 pints Eaton E22221 2-speed rear axle: NAPA PREM PERF Gear Oil SAE 80W-90 41 pints!!! Coolant: Prestone "All Vehicles" concentrate 10 year, 300,000 miles 33 quarts So far so good, or? I'm not sure what hydraulic fluid I should get for the telescoping dump cylinder or what the capacity is. Any insight would be appreciated. Steering wheel is rough and I want to replace it and get a working horn button so that I can pass inspection. This is what it looks like: It is 18" diameter and is dished out about 5.5". Aftermarket is fine, but I have only been able to find flat ones without the 5.5" offset. Any ideas? Another item I'm having a hard time locating is a replacement paper filter element for the Bendix TU-FLO 501 compressor. Also looking for a gear knob and that little red button for changing the axle range. The steering is pretty loose and it is mostly in the steering box. Any tips on how to adjust the play out of it? I'm also looking for this boot: I have no idea about how to get the part number for that. Also need door skins, and misc other door component, but am I correct in assuming that this is all just regular Chevy/GMC stuff that I can get from places like LMC Truck by saying I got a 1983 GMC C15 Pickup? I think all the 1973 - 1989 pickups shared the same cab and components. I'll check/adjust the air brakes to make sure everything is ok there. I'm renting a hot water pressure washer over the weekend to give the undercarriage and engine compartment a good cleaning. It doesn't look like it has ever been cleaned since it went into service some 39 years ago. Any areas I should watch out for other than carb/dist/electrical stuff? Any good source the electrical wiring diagrams for this truck? I looked around and all I can find is still like a single page printout for $25. Was hoping to score a pdf version of the service manual with wire color codes or something along those lines. Thanks in advance and I'm very much looking forward to start tearing into this, new to me, truck! Btw, I'll use it mostly to haul dirt around on my property and run to the local quarry about 16 miles away to bring back gravel. Guy I bought it from said he typically hauled 10 tons of gravel at a time, but has gone as high as 14 tons, but it got real unstable with that load at higher speed given the short wheelbase. Oh, one last question, any idea what this truck weigh empty?
How much of the air filter is still existing? Is this the right part? https://www.anythingtruck.com/product/060-278500N.html
Hi Birken, That looks to be the correct part, but I only need the paper element itself. 100 bucks is a little pricey! Here's what I got: I'm thinking I'll pull the element out and take it down to NAPA to see if they can match it with something. Cool website though! Looks like they got a ton of stuff for larger truck. I'll start digging through their site for other stuff that I need.
Actually, it looks like they do have just the filter element: https://www.anythingtruck.com/product/870-42714.html Thanks!
Been a very long time since I worked on one of those, but I am sure NAPA has the element, but I don't know the part number any more.
Knock the front 4 off the wix number 42714... Napa 2714.
Yep, Napa was able to cross that wix number by lopping off those front digits and they had one in stock. Thanks mccall! Also picked up some 24s30 mud flaps since I was missing one and the other one was looking pretty rough. They did not, however, have a air brake vacuum chamber dust cap, or the guy at the counter wasn't sure how to look it up on the computer. They look pretty generic, so a bit go Googling should get me there I would think.
just a little reminder from just across the hill` don`t get caught with 10 tons on that little truck by the weight watchers . that should be worth about 1200.00 clams for them
I was curious about that. $1,200, yikes! I know it has a GVWR of 32,000 lbs. But I plan to title it at 25,950 lbs. to avoid needing a CDL. So I know I loose 3 tons right there. Assuming it weighs around 12,000 lbs. empty, that would give me a hauling capacity of 14,000 lbs. or 7 tons. Does that sound about right?
as far as DOT is concerned they go by the specs on the door jam, they don't care that you registered for less. You may get away with that if you get stopped by local police that don't know the truck laws but if there's an accident your automatically at fault because your operating out of class. There could be exemptions if its registered as classic or antique but that will limit what you do with it. The easiest and best option is to just get your CDL. its not that hard for only for a "B" strait truck
This particular truck doesn't have a plate on the door jam. Not sure if the door was replaced at some point it its life or what. But the labels in the glove box shows front axle 9,000# and rear axle 23,000#, so that is how I came with with the 32,000 lbs. GVWR. Yeah, I have looked into getting a CDL, and I agree that is probably the best way to go to be completely covered. I insured the truck Tuesday and was surprised it was only $142/year for liability only with driving it between 500 and 1000 miles per year, which is probably all I'll do. It will be for private use only (mostly me hauling gravel/mulch/dirt to my own property). I'm assuming a CDL would still let me use it for private use only and would not impact my insurance rate?
safest thing is to fill fuel tank then get a certified empty weight with you in the truck that will tell you exactly what you can haul based on licensed gross
Sometimes you can find some parts from places like Obsolete Chevrolet. Push button horn button on the dash is legal in a bind. I have some manuals for those trucks but am not capable sending the whole book on PDF. Two speed switch is readily available from mid range after market parts distributors.
jim price chev. in charlottesville is about the only reliable source for old gmc parts that i know of
@petepilot Thanks for the tip on getting certified empty weight with full tanks (I have dual 50s). I'm about 20 miles away from the nearest Penske scale station. They have scales at the local sawmill that I have hauled logs to in the past, but I'm not sure how accurate these are. Same for the scales at the quarry. Didn't think to check with Jim Price. I purchased my 2002 Duramax from them and have gotten parts for it over the years there. @Tenwheeler Appreciate the suggestions for parts sourcing as well, and the offer scan select pages from the manuals! I do have the Owners and Driver's Manual. It is a 1985 manual even though my truck is a 1983, but from what I can tell, nothing really changed in those 2 years. I don't suppose you have the 2 pages of wiring diagrams for this truck that GM made for this truck? If not, I was thinking of going here to get it: http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/...iagram-Original-C5000-C6000-C7000-P26345.aspx They also have the original 1983 Chevy/GMC Medium/Heavy Truck Service Information Manual and the 1983 Repair Shop Manuals. Don't know if those are worth getting?
Believe my manuals are a few years newer. They are factory GM. The stack is about 4 inches thick. Some of the books are about 8.5 by 16 or so. Kind of hard to copy.
Why are you running diesel oil in it? What color is the oil for the hoist? Red would be ATF. Brown is probably just hydraulic fluid.
We used to run diesel oil in everything but the chain saw. Distributor said it covered everything gasers need and has more coverage. Read that things have changed with DEF and DPF engines and those oils have changed. What do you know? Recommend? It was nice to only have to keep one oil in inventory. I am using four different ones now.
The previous owner was running 15W 40 oil so I figured I'd stick with it. I have read elsewhere that these old industrial big blocks are happy running 15W 40. I believe the hoist oil is brown, but I'll double check. I went ahead and ordered the wiring diagrams for a '83 gasser. Got the undercarriage all cleaned up. Looks 1000 times better now: I installed all LED lights along the top of the dump bed as well as all the rear lights. Also added mud flaps. Starting to look like a road worthy truck. I did found a crack in the right rear front suspension mount: Can I just weld it up or would I be better off grinding the heads off the rivets and air chisel them out and then install a new bracket using bolts? Welding sure would be a whole lot faster. The plates between the main frame and dump bed frame have also swollen up from rust and caused the upper subframe to turn up which in turn have put cracks in the subframes just ahead and where the swollen plates are. I'm sure this took place when dumping a heavy load that put a lot of down pressure at the hinge point. For this issue, I don't know if I need to go so far as to raise the subframe, straighten out the lower lip, replace the plates, rust proof everything, and lower the sub frame and weld the cracks. Or if I can get by with just welding the cracks?
That is just like the little dump truck I started out with in 1997. Mine only had a 350 engine.(I think). That little truck was handy, and made a lot of money for me. Ate a lot of gas though. Jeff
If you are talking about the engine you must use a Diesel oil if it has flat tappits the cam will not last if you dont.
I questioned the diesel oil because it is typically more expensive. You have some issues with the truck. Rust jacking on the frame is probably the worst of them. Yes, it can bend the steel. To repair it properly requires taking everything apart. Bracket for the springs should probably be replaced. Welding typically is illegal on suspension components. Whether a spring support is part of that I'm not sure. Best to check with a shop that works on heavy trucks or a spring shop.
I use diesel oil in many air cooled engines propane powered because rules don't allow enough zinc in any but diesel engines. Zinc is a needed factor in air cooled engines.
Start searches as model year and cab type, IE: 83 GM 7000 suspension parts, NAPA or Carquest will have nearly everything else. The cracked spring saddle likely only from a yard or some dealers NOS still in inventory, a EBAY search if can find the GM number on it should bring any up available. Will have to cut rivets and use "Flanged Head Frame Bolts and Nuts" of the same diameter to mount the replacement or will crack faster next time. BTW, Brakes need adjusted, tighten adjustment bolt until just snug(With Parking Brake released and wheels blocked) back off 1/2 turn then get lock to reset on adj hex.
You won't like fuel consumption. Mine had 427, Edelbrock, Eaton 5 speed, Eaton 6.50:1 rear 27500 GVWR. It is in my avatar. It mustered 3 to 6 MPG. I live in Vermont where everywhere is uphill or down.
I had a 75 6500 with a 366 and it was capable but getting the carb adjusted right took some tinkering. I now have a 95 Topkick with a 366 (6L) but it has fuel injection so no carb issues to deal with. It had some different issues but replaced fuel pumps and fuel filter a couple times to get it running right. Think the right side fuel pump that pumps to the left side (main) tank was bad and the lines got full of rust. Truck would start and idle fine but die under load. Blew out fuel filter and it was full of rusty orange colored crap. Did this several times and then put another new filter on and seems to be good.
Mine was a 14 year nightmare, to climb a steep hill the fuel tank had to be full. Last year I ran it it got worse. I found a fuel filter under the passenger floor. It was on the vacuum side of the fuel pump & the gasket was cracked. New gasket & filter helped some. Somebody thought the dip tube in the tank had a rust hole. I had to drop the tank to check for that. Electric fuel pump didn't help. Finally mounted electric fuel pump right at the tank, new everything to the carb, problem solved.
Standpipes are notorious in Gasoline tanks for corrosion holes as gas level is usually left low, new fuels are loaded with ethanol so draws moisture does not help that. Carbed engines as the Tetanus Queen going to OK soon are getting harder to find good components as the old mechanical pumps that will draw gas, just had that issue. Added a electric prior to the under cab gas filter to push prime where the mechanical would then keep it running on its own. This one will only be a site or farm truck until expires and does not matter.
I just got a 1989 c700 427 gasser, does anyone know where to get a wiring diagram?
Only way will find anything close is buy a Fleabay OEM Service Manual, GM C series Medium Duty Truck.
Maybe an old GM dealer that also sold medium duty trucks might still have some microfiche or paper manuals.
The hyperlinks here cover most of the wiring in that truck. Complete 73-87 Wiring Diagrams Complete 73-87 Wiring Diagrams forum.73-87chevytrucks.com
I may have that. What section are you looking for.
Didn't know they still made the 427 that late.
It was still an option (427) even in '95 when we got our 366.
I can't remember if my Topkick is a 94 or 95. I think 95 though. It has an EFI 6.0L (366) but the EFI 7.0L (427) was also available. I don't know when Topkick production ended but think it might be the same time the 366 and 427 were discontinued.
I'm not sure either. 1976 was only a C65, no mention of Topkick, or Chevy's version. My Top Kick is titled as 1990, chassis was manufactured 1989. It has unusual hood with four headlights just above the hinges. I've heard the other trucks got the smaller hood, but the bigger displacement diesels got the bigger styled hood, there wasn't room for a diesel in the smaller hood. Funny, the 366 my 1976 was first equipped with was woefully inadequate, the 427 I changed to was barely adequate. It has nearly identical horsepower & torque specs to the 10.4 litre Cat 3208 the Top Kick has. The gas engine used three times the fuel the diesel does.
Similar with the old IHC 404/446, 549 engines, or Ford 429/370, 534s, MASS gas consumption, power was a limited band of RPM on the High end, closest Diesel in comparison was two Strokers. Gutless unless 'On the Pipe' translated to WFO!
And deafening! I use my Topkick as a water truck but I was happy driving it to my property about an hour away. The fuel injection is a huge improvement and not too bad on gas. Only issue I discovered quickly was the 3rd gear syncro didn't work so I had to double clutch going into 3rd. Every other gear was fine. Not a big deal.
I briefly owned a 534 in a fire truck. It seemed overwhelming at the time. I paid $800. for a flawless 30 something year old truck with 6000 miles. I backed away at the time realizing the dump truck I hoped to convert it to was going to cost a fortune to convert. My main reason to do it was getting away from a gas engine, that truck was still a gasser. Made me sick to drive 100 miles round trip to an antique tractor pull, cost $150. for gas. Now that trip is about $50. and the identical 50 gallon tank isn't coasting home on fumes. 1976 C65 is a great truck, it is still a few miles away, waiting for a hand me down dump body that'll leave a legal payload of about 5 tons. Progress is slow. Rust jacking between layers of the two layer frame concerned me 10 years ago. The present owner is unconcerned, maybe I was wrong.
Turn signal circuit
yep, 427 with the 5 speed Eaton trans and 2 speed rear. Has air brakes.