Hi all new here I appreciate some information on my diesel engine I believe it’s called a Perkins 4cyl. I recently purchased it and it has torque issues from what I gather. It doesn’t like to go up hilly terrain. Doesn’t slip it just runs out of guts from what I am figuring. I had to use the front bucket and push it up the hill. (It’s not that steep at all) I saw a round cover inside of the cab it turns out to be the air filter cover. So I wonder if that’s why it was off cause I put it on. I just peaked at the filter quick seemed reasonable clean. When I first got it I RPM was around 700. I put a new fuel filter and now RPM is around 1,000. Still a dog. It runs smooth cranks smooth so I don’t think it is internal. I know that the injection pump was changed. Is there timing done on these? I have mechanical background but not much diesel stuff. Also the drain for the water separator is hard to turn can use some oil on it. It’s plastic, also do I need to pull the bottom off the water separator as well? Thx I Attach files Allow anyone in the conversation to invite others Lock conversation (no responses will be allowed)
hello and welcome to the HEF. Congratulations on your purchase. My advice is always start with the basics before diving into timing ect. Give it a full service. Cut open filters and look for shiny bits. Does it blow smoke? What colour? Sounds to me like you have a blocked fuel line or fuel filters.
What he said above........... And if you have never cut a filter open to inspect it before it might pay you to watch this VIDEO . You don't need all the tools he uses, tin snips will work just as well to cut the filter open but the inspection principles are just the same.
The filter was pretty dirty that is for sure in the bottom was some clumps of something. The only smoke I have noticed is sometimes it puffs like when I use the hoe, while moving a heavier load. Just a quick puff. It was so small I figured it to be normal
TBH I wouldn’t even consider trying to use the machine until you have done a full service on it. At the same time it might pay you to blow out all the fuel lines to/from the tank, drain the water & sediment from the tank, and maybe even pull the fuel filter head off and clean out all the internal passages. IMHO you should do all the basics first before even contemplating delving into the fuel injection system If you are planning on doing your own maintenance you should seriously consider getting hold of an Operation & Maintenance Manual. I’ll see if I can find one and post a link.
i don’t have the filter anymore unfortunately but I will clean out all the lines as you both recommended. I assume you are also talking about the lines at the injectors as well? And how about the injectors?
Thank you guys I appreciate the help.
I did buy a on line version. I need to pick up a laptop so I can read it and find things easier.
As a starting point I would suggest checking the fuel tank for the presence of water/sediment. Also clean or replace the breather #5 on top of the tank. Then I suggest to clean only the fuel lines between the tank and the injection pump, including any internal passages inside the heads of both the water separator and fuel filter on the way. When you disconnect the line at the injection pump inlet, remove #19 & 20 marked in the illustration below and you will find that #21 that is below them will slide off the pump. That is a metallic screen and I am betting money that you will find it packed up almost solid with debris.
If you want a paper one then for your Serial Number it is Caterpillar Publication reference SEBU6232 which covers all 5PC machines up to S/N 10761. I don't see any used ones but you can buy one from the Caterpillar Publications web site HERE (put SEBU6232 in the box and click Search) or the same thing a few $$ cheaper from HERE . Both are genuine factory manuals.
i don’t have the filter anymore unfortunately. These were inside the cab. Not quite sure where they go.
Thank you so much for the information. Knowing this information is very valuable and helpful Ty so much. I have bad week of pay this week but I would love to send you something for your time. Ty
Sorry I didn’t realize that responses were individual and not as a group. I wanted to thank you for your help and your greeting. Thx I hope you are having a great weekend.
Thank you for the kind thoughts but that's not necessary. It's what all the good people on this forum do day-in, day-out.
Well I guess I will fit right in. I am the same but on the automotive side. I have rebuilt a few cylinders in my time. I am presently a quality acceptance on submarines. So I see plenty of hydraulics.
Not really sure why I posted twice as you see that little filter was not plugged up but as you also see the line coming out of the tank for fuel is not attached so I guess that would probably Not really sure why I posted twice as you see that little filter was not plugged up but as you also see the line coming out of the tank for fuel is not attached so I guess that would probably suck air constantly right.
Wouldn't a 5PC have a screen in the lift pump? And those stupid rubber Perkins fuel line ferrules? Under here, isn't that a screen?
I was figuring i would be taking that off as well I was going to go to my parts book and see what is in there. Once I post my photos of what it looks like in the water separater b. you will see about a 1/2 of crud no exaggeration. Also the tank feed line is not a sealed fitting. Must have broken off or stripped the piece. I have a welder mug and tig so I can do up a fitting. Along with theses photos there is going to be one that has two metal covers I guess. They were in the cab.
Probably not sucking air as such but letting water and other contaminants into your tank. But the look of your water separator, it has already got a gut full of water. Hopefully your pump and injectors are ok but its not looking good.
I would be pulling the tank, washing it out and welding the suction pipe. Blow all lines, replace rubber olives and rubber sections of pipe. Replace the lift pump (cheap insurance as they can leak past seal and put fuel in sump) Then with new fuel, bleed her up and pray.
I was figuring i would be taking that off as well it did look like the fuel filter did its job but I guess I will find out. (When I took it off it had just a small amount in the housing. Yes I will replace the lift pump. Qq the filter inside the injector pump was clean so I think I am going to luck out. It poured all day so I was able to work on it. I work nights so I will work on it tomorrow again. I’m putting it back together I need to still pop off the priming pump.
Hi guys I believe I am on the track but double checking. Tractor now won’t start I have fuel going to the injectors. I notice that if you take the power and ground wire off of the fuel shut off switch, you hooked the power up accident powers the other terminal as well as the one it’s done to me that means this which is Short right? If you put the other wire on it, it takes the power away.
Would an electrical schematic help you at all.?
I have it according to the schematic that solenoid is shorted. It’s got power and the other side gets the ground. I just wanted to verify it.
You are correct. 308-YL is live all the time the key switch is in the ON position which energizes the solenoid, the circuit to ground being completed by 200-BK which is routed to the ground connection below the alternator. All the time the circuit is powered the solenoid should be pulled in, turn the key switch to OFF, the solenoid de-energizes and shuts down the engine. I can't find any specification for the resistance of the coil for the 7W-6249 solenoid. I have a better quality electrical schematic if you are interested.
If you have fuel at the injector, the electrical side should be ok. When bleeding these old girls, try only cracking one injector line at the injector at a time.
once again, I appreciate your your help so I don’t think that there’s anything actually wrong with that circuit or the valve. Turn the key and plug the solenoid in and you feel it energize. So I think I am fine there. I went another direction and spray the either and it fires right up. I only spray a little. It will not start if you spray diesel in there. I guess that is because it is more flammable? I can say that I have noticed that the primer pump worked well at first but after filling the water separater it would like not pump anymore until I cranked the engine over again then I could pump some more. Fuel is flowing to the injectors. So I am not sure if the priming pump is bad or if I could have put the parts in the wrong order in the screen that is part of the injection pump. I used a magnet to pull the parts out and then they fell off before I could grab them. I couldn’t find any thing yet on the order but it did self explanatory. It’s a Delphi brand.
gotcha ok I will try that out tmrw when I’m back from work. I assume that is why priming pump losses it prime? I was doing them all. I won’t be anymore.