Is there a fuel vent on my old 580K ? If so where ? I had to change the inline fuel filter down by the 'tank' and can't get the manual primer to bring up the fuel. Was thinking of pressureizing the tank with a vacuume at the tank fill. The cap doesn't seem to seal tight. Is that the vent ? Thank you.
I don't know, I'll look. I have a Hell of a time priming if the tank isn't full. My belief is that the cam / hand powered primer pump is not good at priming itself. Fluid levels higher than the pump will prime it. Willie
Take the outlet off of the primer pump and use your finger to seal it lightly so you can feel if it's priming by the air coming out. This also helps relieve the air if it's trying to pump air against pressure and suck a vacuum at the same time. Just like bleeding brakes, pump, release the air, hold... If it's not pumping, bump the starter over, it may be on the high spot of the cam and not operating, you can tell by the fell of the priming lever, if you know how it's supposed to feel.
open the cover on the tank that should give you plenty of vent. But I dont think thats the issue. What injection pump does that have ? Lucas cav injection pumps have 2 bleeders on them. Should be 2 5/16 screws
If it wont restart after the filter change, loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS, as many as you can reach.. Loosen the fuel inlet connection AT the inj. pump and spin the engine/work the hprimer till the filters are full & fuel comes out of the loosened line and retighten. Spin the engine with the throttle wide open and watch for fuel at the loosened lines at the injectors.. Once fuel is squirting out, tighten the lines.. If its a CAV/Delphi pump, the bleed screw is by the name plate, double screw, 5/16" wrench. If its a RoosaMaster/Stanadyne pump, its self bleeding. Did you fill the filter w/fuel before installing?
Thanks, Willie B. Glad you know what I mean. Thanks pump guy and Delmer. I changed the inline filter at the very bottom of the system so the intake line is empty and the manual primer pump has just about worn me out. I know what to open at the engine from the operator's manual but the manual pump is just blowing air ( and not much of that…) because little pumps like that just don't have very much suction. I have a line cracked at the head of the filters when trying to pump. Rather than fool with the manual pump forever, I want to use the output from a vacume cleaner to pressureize the tank ( which is the frame) and help the poor thing get fuel back up to the filters and injection pump. But the machine is at a remote location, half buried in snow and I don't know if there is a fuel tank vent that I will need to block. If there is, I need a clue what it looks like so I can take stuff to block it.
if you pressurize the fuel tank you will hear a hiss if there is a separate fuel tank vent...if its not built into the fuel cap...
When I open my fuel tank, it makes a sound like a coffee can used to. I'd guess the only vent is in the cap. Parts Book, And Service Manual are pretty short on illustrations of the top of the tank. Willie
fuel cap vents get clogged over time, soaking the cap in carb cleaner( or any solvent) and blowing out any passages with air should help that..
Thanks. I think this answers my question. I'll take some of that clay like caulking stuff just in case.
I would pick up the J904374 lift pump and carry it with you, they are cheap, one on e bay for 13.00 bucks with the average around 25.00. Like said above, bump the engine and get the lift arm off the lobe and try your pump lever. The last thing you want to do is take out your starter and battery fooling around in cold weather and a remote area.
Glad to find another 1987 case 580k owner here, great machines, the phase one mechanical system is great. By the way I bought a spare starter and lift pump they are both cheap as mentioned and are great items to have around as spares.
Thanks guys. I will get a spare pump. The pressurizer thing worked ok but there Is a vent or overflow inside the top of the fuel fill. Nothing that couldn't be covered by duct tape but it seemed to have some restriction and the lift pump picked up pretty quick. I did find the 'dead' spot where the lever was just floppy once. I used a small tire inner tube, a hunk of 2" pvc pipe with a Fernco cap, a couple of hose clamps and a cordless compressor. I have fuel every where it's supposed to be now but not much volume or pressure so I'll be changing the primary and secondary fuel filters next trip. Yes, Dualsport, great old machines. If I won the lottery I think I'd spend the money to fix this one up rather than get something newer
Mine was frustrating for years with hard starting when the tank was less than full. The solenoid valve failed on the injector pump, I replaced it, problem solved!
the thing that looks a vent or overflow is a return fuel line from the injector pump must stay open when running or cranking to run, it is a return for not needed fuel and helps bleed air must have small trickle when running at all times line could be clogged or fitting at pump GL
That's very interesting, Jimg984. I'll have to examine it closer next time.
Fill the tank up [and the filters] with fuel and be sure to turn the key to "on" when bleeding the injection pump. Mine ran out so I had to crack the injectors, too.
I changed the primary and secondary filters today. Even though we had fuel dribbling out everywhere on the engine, the filters were almost empty. I cut open all three filters. The inline (first) one had a wad of goo in it. Second one had some stuff that was rusty looking other one was discolored but not much goo. Next mission is to drain the tank. I think there is only 10-15 gallons in it… guess we'll see. Should be exciting. For jimg984 the return line goes around behind the filter head and into the injection pump.
Are you using bio-diesel fuel ? If you are, examine the tank after draining it for any sludge that may remain in it. Using fuel conditioner ?
No bio-diesel. I put Opti-lube in the fuel now and then. Not often. It's 30 years old, I've had it 15 and never cleaned the tank or had fuel issues til now. The glop I've seen looks like rust scum . I don't think I've ever filled the tank since it's always refueled with 5 gallon cans. So I'm not surprised. Inspection will be difficult. Best I could do would be to try to rinse it out using an electric fuel pump and the diesel that drains out.
I've been using 5 gal cans to refuel my machines lately because I was concerned about the quality of the fuel in the transfer tank and haven't cleaned it out yet. I still try to keep the machines as full as possible to limit the amount of condensation that can form which is substantial here in New England with the wide temperature fluctuations and I add plenty of additives to keep it fresh and water/ice free. Condensation in a fuel tank means rust as well as water and rust clogs filters and so will the ice crystals. I've drained some out of the bottom of the tanks to check it during a recent warm spell and have been surprised how little water I found and how clean the fuel is. Seems to be working so probably worth the extra effort and $.