Got a new to me machine, thinking the tourqe convertor/ reverser is bad but I wanted info on troubleshooting. Issue is that it will barely pull its self up trailer in 1st. when you start it up everything is fine but you drive a littel bit and the stop lamp starts flashing, even on level grond it almost feel as if it is loading up, not sure if it could be a dragging sticking parking break, but it seems to roll fine when you aren't on the foot throttle and are just coasting. The hydraulic filter light is also on. I bought this machine figuring in a shuttle rebuild/ replacemnt so I knew something wasnt right. but I am just curious what actually is wrong? Ive driven other machines ( cases) tha thad a weak tranny but the sysmptoms didnt seem like this does. I also have the alternator light on, but the engine has enough battery to start and run so i assume the voltage is good to disengage the parking brake??
I have a 1992 310D so I am interested in your problem. The reverser is a Borg Warner. Same as used in many of the Case hoes built in the 1980s. What I have read about these units is they usually fail in reverse or forward, so you can try if one direction is stronger than the other. If so you can assume its the reverser. If the machine is bad in both directions then I would be the torque converter. Your park brake is activated by a spring holding a brake. Your hydraulic pressure releases the band when the park brake switch is off. Doesn't sound like its your brake. How many hours on the meter?
Have you changed the hydraulic fluid filter? With the engine running what is the voltage at the battery? Also, put the meter on AC voltage and see if you get any reading at all. Mine was doing the same thing and I had to get the alternator repaired. $65 I think.
Your transmission was acting as mine was from your alternator not working? or just your alternator wasnt working?
ac45, I don't quite understand what bowen it trying to tell you. But I can tell you what your voltage should be with engine off and engine on. A well charged and healthy battery should read 12.4 volts or more with key and all switches off. 14.0 or more with engine running and all electrical switches off. Mine reads 14.6 volts with engine running. That is higher than most. Make sure you check the voltage at the battery post. Also, if your tachometer is not working or not steady it can be a sign of a bad alternator. Let us know.
Same Issues here, 91 310d it has neither forward or reverse, the pto shaft is turning underneath and when the trans is shifted into a gear , while holding the gear shift knob and going into forward or reverse you can feel it in the gear shift knob. But no movement. Just acquired mach has 8000 hrs. and looks pretty clean. No alarms and everything else electrical and mechanical seems to work.
Bayside30, If the driveshaft between the reverser and the transmission is turning but your tractor is not moving with your 4 speed gear selector is in 1st or 2nd gear, you don't have a reverser problem. You have a transmission problem or a broken rear axle. If your backhoe is a 4 wheel drive, try to drive it while in 4 wheel drive. If it then drives, you may have a broken rear axle.
Yep pull the transaxle diagram up and it sure looks like somethings amiss down there, we're in the process of pulling the seat and floor board up now. It's not mfwd, I crawled underneath and the shaft entering the trans turns real easy without resistance, so I bet it will get interesting in the next couple of days. Thanks for your input. I'll keep ya posted.
had similiar problem my machine is also 91 model 4x4 turned out to be the ring gear. the ring gear is riveted to carrier and had sheared the rivets. had to drop transaxle and take to shop best i remember 600-700 dollars plus my time to get transaxle in and out but i did have the parking brake band replaced at same time
Getting ready to pull the panels off the floor board today and cover on trans too. I'll keep you updated. thanks hillbilly , something to look for. Also not a 4x4.
The park brake works off the shuttle trans pump and everytime you apply the parkbrake it pumps the oil back into the shuttle but a little comes out the dipstick .over time it lowers the oil in the trans.Check the oil in the shuttle.it is probably low.
You can check the reverser by taking off the sump.5 bolts ,smack with a hammer and off she comes.If it is full of crap then it is the reverser.These units have been fairly bullet proof. you can also cage the spring in the park brake which probably doesnt work anyways due to a poor design.The stop light is a primary failure which will go off if it thinks the park brake is on.Does the tach work? If not ,it is probably just a loose belt and it wont charge.
Joeblow, Can you clarify what you mean by cage the spring in the park brake? And elaborate on the poor design. I have 9000 hrs. on my 1992 310D and the park brakes works perfectly except the canister seems to be leaking a bit of oil while the machine in being used. I would like to know what you know that I don't and also do you know if the seals can be replaced. I would really like to keep it operational as it is a very user friendly system while its working.
ac45. If your alternator checks out good, try the alternator relay behind the dash. Also could be the ignition switch. Both easy fairly cheap repairs. Had to replace both on mine recently.
I worked at a deere dealership for 22 years and am dealing from memory here but if you look at the back of the parking brake pot you can insert a bolt aand releive the spring pressure like a air brake maxi.As for the poor design;the brake band is a wedge type design and clamps in a shive attached to the ring gear.the mechanical advantage with the big rear tires is such that it snaps that brake band like a twig.Then the debris from the brake band gets stuck in the trans and causes havoc.I know this because the 310 d kept me employed for a long time and have had many apart.Let the brake pot leak because the next one you buy will leak as well.I have seen the rivets shear on the ring gear a couple of times but usually the bushings 1 and 2 gear ride on seize and you get stuck in 2 gears at once.Dont bother taking the floor board out because you won't see much.If you are unsure about the condition of the transaxle,they are not to hard to remove.Instead of me telling you how to do it ,look on eBay for a manual.Get a operations and test manual and a repair manual.Concidering the cost of labour these days it is a good investment.Deere made a so so backhoe but they write a hell of a good manual.
Wow, that's a lot of scary information. But I am glad to see you on this forum since you have 22 years as a Deere mechanic. I now have a different feeling about my park brake. When I was test driving the hoe, my more experienced assistant told me to drive along in second and jump on the brakes to test them out. I misunderstood and snapped on the park brake. The calcium loaded tires locked up tight in the gravel I was on and nothing broke. I guess I was lucky. So knowing it's weakness now, I would say it's probably best to lift the rear wheels completely off the ground each time I use the hoe in hard digging so as not to stress the park brake. Do you know if there is anything else I should do to prevent snapping the band. About the bushings seizing, is there any thing to do to avoid this except oil changes? I do have all the manuals, so I'm doing good there. I think someone may have had the rear axles off just before I bought it because the large bolts holding the axles to the frame were brand new. Don't know what was done though. Thanks for replying with your knowledge. It's much appreciate.
Well It's been awhile since I've been on . 2 months of 24/7 lambing on the farm,,, but I got back to our 310d the other day. I pulled the seat, then the heater and finally to the top service panel on top of the transmission. and there it was a mess. The shaft from the oil pump was snapped and the riviets from the differential to the side gear had sheared off and were laying all over the place. So you can turn the input shaft with ease, and turn the wheels when up on the stablizers. I did not turn the pump yet to see if it turns?. But it looks like we're dropping the trans and pulling it out.. any thoughts from anybody at this point. thanks
I am of no help to you as I have never taken a 310D transaxle apart. It would be nice of you to take photos when it's all apart so we can learn from your experience. Wish you the best of luck with your repairs.