I posted not so long ago about this 1980 580C that I purchased - First: SO many folks here have helped me out and I want to offer my sincere thanks! So I looked at my auto-sized tools....and I looked at the hoe...looked at the tools...looked at the hoe...tools...hoe....(sigh...) Drove over to the Harbor Frieght outlet and bent over. $400 later I have a starter kit of cheap tools that would intimidate pro-wrestlers. So far I replaced the boom to dipper hose for the bucket ($109.00 ) the master brake cylinders and the slave cylinders. The slave cylinders definately have to be attacked from above, having to remove the seat and the floor plate. The right side brake is a cluster ****. on the left side, all the tensioning details are outboard and (relatively) easy to access, Case used the exact assembly on the right side rather than mirror the design, so all the details are not only against the brake housing, but the keyed (meaning frozen..) diff-lock shaft is mounted above these sandwiched details...lots of cussing. Speaking of the differential lock mechanism....has anyone had trouble with this feature being frozen? I can't budge that sucker. Not just the actuator shaft above the meatball, I mean the shaft going into the diff lock housing. I replaced the alternator - was putting out 11 volts and eating the batt down, was going to rebuild it but the new one from Advance Auto was $49...no brainer there....gimme...10 minute fix. The cutting edge blade had about 14" busted off of the right side. I had the liberated piece still. I cut off the old bolts (the prev guy used carriage bolts instead of plow bolts...) and tried to tack the pieces together so I could route the other side for welding....went to lift it and "...*tink*... the welds snapped away like saltine crackers. Turns out that you have to bust out the Acetylene to heat that bugger up like prepping for cast before getting that gnarly blade to take a weld. On last question before I close.... the loader bucket boom pistons are the biggest leakers and will need to get re-packed after my wallet heals. I pal recommended a hydraulic oil additive called "Seal-Lube" as a temporary fix. He said it swells the seals a little and will buy me some time without sending me to the poorhouse. Any thoughts or opinions on these types of products?
Kevin, Glad you are getting going on your 'new' 580C!! I am sure it will be a good machine for you, it looked in good shape when you posted it. Good luck with the HF tools, they are a start but I have not had much luck with them. Sort of reminds me of buffalo's tools back in the day... I have bought some more reasonably priced larger hand tools from the web, even Amazon is selling tools now. My diff lock was frozen as well, took the liberal use of the blue wrench to free the rust and get it loose. I just heated the housing and bushing evenly, staying away from the shaft. Took about 15 minutes to free up. I would replace the cuttin edge if you can, Coleman has them for around $200. I don't think heating the edge and welding will hold up after you are done. It will take the hardness out of the edge. I have not heard of any products to add to hydraulic systems to help with that. Just me, but I would not add them to mine, there is alot more to go wrong with the system that will cost much green. Just think of all the O-rings in the loader and backhoe spool valve banks that this additive would potentially mess with, not to mention the pump itself and its seals. I would run as far from that as fast as possible. Packing kits for cylinders are not that expensive. The tools to work on them will set you back a little, but buy once and have them for the rest. Just my $.002, advise on the web is worth every penny you paid for it!! Dave
Yeah - I have never added stop-leak type garbage to any vehicles before. My Pop woulda punched me. They always seem to cause more aggravation than they were worth, but I was asking because the guy that suggested it is a major anal maintenance nut on his 2 triaxles (a Pete & a KW) and 1 International cab. I thought there might be some intel out here on that particular product. I cherried up the edges with the torch and welded that cut edge and then water quenched it after a 15 minute air cool. I flushed the beads and whailed on it a couple of times with my 10#'er to see if it'd shatter. It held. It has a slight bow now, but I was able to draw it up with the plow bolts without too much torque. It'll never be the same, but I did some back-blading and excavated the hump out of a low spot in my drive (where all the fines from the upper sections settled, so it was light duty excavating) and it's holding so far. But I'll keep that resource handy as I don't expect it to last forever. For now it cost me some 718 wire and a little acetylene. Thanks Dave!
I didn't notice you stated it was a bolt on before. That must be an add on edge on the integral blade that is welded on... Is there a welded edge on the bucket? Mine is close to being gone so I am in for that replacement as well... Dave
Yessir! There is the welded cut edge on the bucket that looks pretty worn down and this sacrificial edge is bolted onto the bottom of that integral edge, it also has 2 bolt-on cheek plates to protect the sides as well. the bolt-on edge is about 8" - 10" wide and all of 1/2", maybe 9/16" (didn't measure it...) thk and is hard to where, when the previous owner broke it, it cracked into two pieces without the slightest bend. Mean stuff. My pal said he'd keep an eye out for a piece of scrap for me in case that weld fails. He works in a gravel pit and sees lots of machines coming and going through the owner. He said that a new piece, that size, made of that (AR?) steel is likely to fetch $800 retail.
Looks like a good job of welding!!! Dave
I hope that it holds. You can see in the close-up that the weld points straight at the second plow bolt. It broke at that hole, so there's only one other bolt holding that piece along with the weld. I'll be abusing it soon! I would have thought that if it were weak or brittle it would have cracked again when it was drawn up against the bow in the strip. I'll know soon enough!
Kevin, lets go back to the diff lock. Mine was frozen, Kroil and patience got it loose. Does yours have all the parts (rocker arm etc.) to go to the floor pedal? If it does, I'd sure appreciate some pix and measurements, mine is missing, and I can't seem to find parts anywhere. Look @ parts manual page 215. P/n 33 thru 36 are what I'm talking about.
Yes - All the linkage and control arm are all still intact. I'll be glad to take some pics - The control arm on the shaft is a cast (forged?) item - I think if I can get some dimensions from the centerline of the shaft to the clevis connection and the related dim's there, you can probably best-guess the offset (based on the photos when I get them...) of the connecting rod that goes from the foot pedal to the control arm...stay tuned. I might not be able to get to it until saturday (dad-gum job keeps gettin in the way of things!)
Just looked at the PM - yeah...that's a real fer-suck diagram of the control arm on the diff lock shaft. FYI - I have the one-piece set-up... Not the 2-piece rig....