Good day all, Let me start my thread with a huge thank you (Nige) for all the tech help and support to date. I just ordered lift pistons and rubber mounts for my EROPS so I can finally get a peek at her guts. Even the bolts are missing in the front corners. Is replacement of the pistons feasible with the cab down? Would anyone have the schematic for this area? Dealer ordered me four mounts, two pistons and the hardware to go along with said parts.
Machine S/N (5FZ05218.?) and what Part Numbers exactly is your dealer supplying.?
My apologies, what a rookie error..! That would be her, 05218. I discovered the lift assist pistons on the EROPS cab were missing. As I’d like to take a look “under the hood” so to speak. Unfortunately I do not have the part #’s yet, all I was told is one locking lift piston and one non, and the what I believe to be the four corner rubber mounts that the cab sits on. While I do not know if they are missing, I went ahead and grabbed them in case. the parts are in, hoping to be able to grab them today.
Here’s the struts and mounts part numbers as received.
Here's the info on tilting the cab and replacing the struts. Tilting it far enough to get the lock into place with broken/damaged struts will probably require a hoist or come-along of some sort. If you need to remove the cab to replace the rear ROPS mounts it shouldn't be too hard. The cab weighs 400 pounds give or take.
So I’m back with some head scratching. Spring AS-GA 153-2683 Spring A. 153-2682 How do I discern which is the left side cab strut vs the right side? Thanks in advance for again bailing me out on this machine. JR
The parts manual is not 100% clear but it appears as though the 153-2682 is the LH side and 153-2683 is the RH.
Thank you very much again for your help. That is how I will install them. More to come….. JR
Happy weekend all.! The Cab tilt works as expected. I installed them per Nige’s guidance. Upon initial inspection of the under seat area; The rubber radiator type hose from the bottom of the Hyd tank appears very wet at the lower end. I sprayed a bit of super purple around and pressure washed “gently” to have a better look today. It’s unlikely it would be as easy as that screw clamp needs a bit more tension. See you guys soon.
All I can say is have fun. There isn't much spare real estate under the cabs of those things.
While you are in the tank area it might be an idea to remove the Tube #10 and then inspect/clean the suction strainer #7 that screws to the bottom of it. Look carefully on the outside of the strainer for the presence of any brass or plastic particles.
Hello Gents, quick update on my 226. While highly simple in theory, the rubber hose and clamps were swapped out for new and some fresh Hydo was added to bring up to sight glass. I had touched the rusty looking bolts on the strainer to complete after the hose update, but was not able to that day. Next up is another pressure washing and monitor the sight glass for loss and clean the strainer. The good news is she was not as low as I had anticipated in the system.
Good morning All, Fired her up after preparing pressure washing, and she stalls. Starts back up and stalls like she starving for fuel. Looks like im off to Cat for a fuel filter as I can’t speak for its age. Never a “dull moment” for me…..,, Why oh why
Drain all the muck/water using the plug in the bottom of the fuel tank plus remove all the fittings (circled) and clean the passages in the head for the fuel filter assembly while you have the element removed. Also when you have the element out there is a tube that pokes down about where the rectangle is. Make sure that is clean by poking a wire up it or blow with compressed air. There are also a lot of banjo bolts in the fuel lines that have a nast habit of trapping particles between the fuel tank and the filter. Check the fuel lines for the presence of an inline filter/strainer and clean/replace as required.