I have a 2002 Komatsu pc210lc-7. Keep having issue with cold start. New batteries, alternator, and starter. When its cold, you get a 1/4 crank at most and then just a click. When warm, and occasionally cold starts right up zero issue. i cnat seem to figure out why, it clicks like with no crank , sometimes a dozen times , and then finally full crank starts right up. Inconsistent. went through service Manuel as well and through all the recommendations there. Any advice out thoughts?
Check all grounds, first and foremost with any electrical problem. Are you hearing the safety relay click or the starter solenoid? One is a very solid "clunk" when you first turn the key to 'on' Then you turn the key to crank, that's when you should hear the starter. Let's figure out what you are hearing and what your ground situation looks like. Good luck
Both sylnoids click , I’ve gone through and cleaned grounds , test all fuses looked for defects. It’s odd to me that it only happens when cold ( electricical is !not my strong suite ) I’ve done all general electrical troubleshooting., that I could think of at least
So to confirm, you have the exact same problem before and after changing all these parts. The problem didn't change at all? The alternator, is it factory Komatsu or aftermarket?
Both sylnoids click , I’ve gone through and cleaned grounds , test all fuses looked for defects. It’s odd to me that it only happens when cold ( electricical is !not my strong suite ) I’ve done all general electrical troubleshooting., that I could think of at
It’s a Denson,
I'm gonna have to review a schematic or two. Do you have a helper and a volt/ohmmeter?
Need to take a multimeter and put in DC volts range. These tests will give some concrete ideas for diagnosis. Willo need a helper to do unless you have a recording meter. #1 Stab battery Positive with Red test lead, Stab Key switch "Batt" terminal with Black test lead and hold the key in starting position for 5-8 seconds, what is meter reading. #2 Stab battery Positive with Red test lead, stab Key switch "C" terminal with the black test lead and hold the key in starting position for 5 -8 seconds, what is average reading on meter. #3 Stab Battery Positive with Red test lead, Stab at the Starter on the small signal wire "S" terminal while someone holds the starter in crank position for 5-8 seconds. What does meter read. Start with these tests, and post results and we will direct next set of tests. You have already changed quite a few parts, and still no go. Lets try to diagnose without more expensive parts if possible. Simon C
When I say Battery Positive above I mean the 24 Volt terminal red cable. Simon C
Attached are photos from when I first started testing with the machine running I’ll go back today and go through the list of what you have here. Also is getting roughly 25 V off the alternator when running it varied between 16 and 25.3
Sounds like your pre-heat relay is cycling on and off. Voltage shouldn't drop below 21v though. That sounds like something approaching a dead-short is occurring.
Those top post connections, along with that carrier wire looks suspicious. I see all the hammer marks, can you twist those clamps at all by hand or with some light tapping?
Put your meter like you have it in the 4th picture and hold key switch in Crank position for 5 seconds. What is the meter reading as this will indicate load carrying capacity of both batteries or whether or not no power is being taken out of batteries. Try this test. Then try the three tests I posted in post#8. Simon C
I put all new terminals on , with the new batteries. As snug as can be . Also wired all connections before installation
The reason I asked for the test of battery capacity is that I have seen 4 batteries in 1 day that were hooked up to a mchine to start, 2 at a time and still had nothing. They were all Delco remy batteries. Can't have 4 no good batteries, all the bosses said not possible. Load tested all 4, and they were all trickle charged and showing 12.6 volts each. They all fell to 4 volts under load and nothing started. We found out it was a batch of no good batteries. Yours are probably fine, simple 2 second test that can save a lot of run around in a circle. When we put 2 more batteries the next day from different supplier, batteries dropped to 10.9 volts (excellent) and instant start. Have seen a no good brand new battery 1 other time and a few times, no good battery after only couple weeks with state of charge at 12.6 volts, but failed miserably. Just for your info, carry on with the key switch tests and lets see what we find. Simon C
Following that logic, those batteries appear incorrect for application. I believe they should be 4DLT at minimum. Have you had any luck Following guidance provided by Simon C?
What about the cable off the battery switch going to ground?
Yes just looked at schematic and that ground cable should be tested also. You are correct as we need to rule out stupid little things one at a time before spending money. These test are simple and don't take long. There is a lot of test to do around a battery box and alternator. When your answering questions and your not there, it is way easier to miss this or that. Simple when youe standing there with meter and doing all the tests. Simon C
Following that logic, those batteries appear incorrect for application. I believe they should be 4DLT at minimum. Have you had any luck Following guidance provided by Simon C? I believe you are correct on the machines that I worked on previously they had the bigger 4D batteries in them. They can hold the voltage way higher when cranking which is essential to keep the fuel solenoid engaged, especially in colder weather. Glad you caught that point that I missed and could be a game changer if not immediately , later on as each time you heavily load smaller batteries, you are taking some life out of them. Then one day you have no start problems again. Wait to see what he finds from previous tests we sent him on. Simon C