Recently picked up this tracked skid steer with 600 hrs, cranks white smoke ,won’t start , took it to cat dealer. The diagnosis is blown head gasket and one bent push rod, I think it’s under a recall, dealer won’t cover repairs under the recall, advising new rebuilt engine, Cat 257b, serial # 0SLK00402. Any advice on repairing would be much appreciated.
The "recall", or Service Letter as Cat refers to them, have a validity time-wise (usually 2-3 years from date of publication) before they expire. If the programme has not been applied to a particular machine by that time - no coverage. This particular programme was most likely an After Failure Service Letter, so if the machine didn't fail during the time the programme was active there would've been no reason to apply the fix. Your machine was built in 2004, so the program might have been active up to say 2010-ish. Based on that date the dealer is likely not going to be much help. As regards repair possibilities, I'll let some of the SSL gurus pitch in.
You can try to get your dealer and cat to do a good will repair. I have seen it done before but I don't know what dictates it to happen. Basically it's a agreement that you, the dealer, and Caterpillar agree to share a precentage of the cost. As one that can let his emotions get the best of him. Cooler heads and persistence will prevail. Good luck and keep us posted to what happens.
Did you buy it in its non-running condition ?
Good will is generally only considered for the original owner of a machine and based on the criteria that "the customer did not receive fair value" for the machine that he purchased from Caterpillar via the selling dealer. I'd say a goodwill settlement would be somewhat unlikely in this case, especially if as it appears the OP bought the machine as a non-runner.
Puah rods don't just bend sounds like it dropped a valve or something came in contact with the valve
Put the rebuild engine in it. Bob
Just search the site,I'm fairly certain those engines were not known for their durability. Lots of issues with loosing oil pressure because, I belive from what I remember reading here, the bolts on the oil pump would loosen and grenade the engine due to lack of pressure? Many on here have tried a repair, completely different engine swap, or have gone with the recommended engine replacement. It all depends on what you paid for it and what you are planning on doing with it. Any of the options are going to take time and money to fix....
I am new to this forum, I can’t thank you gentlemen enough for pitching in with your valuable time and advice, I bought this thing at an auction, Its been sitting on my trailer for a year now, I am so anxious to see this thing running, I have lost hope with the cat and dealership. I am $15,500 into it after dealer charged me $1200 for diagnosis , I can get a new engine on eBay for $6500 but I want to take the head off and do the head gasket and see what else does not look good on it, I like to fix things and it will make me feel good about the whole experience of making it run but I haven’t dealt with a job of this nature, So I would like know what’s going to take to do the heads on this machine , I am sure I don’t have to take the motor out. It’s just a toy for me to keep arround and use it here and there when needed , the reason I want to fix it is cause it cranks good and is good looking machine, does not look like there is too much wrong with it with 600hrs on it, but can the bad head gasket keep it from starting? Is there a kit to do head gasket or just the gasket and push rod will suffice, thanks in advance.
This..... The problem is that you can’t guarantee the problem is “just a head gasket”. In fact based on the description it most likely isn’t, and that’s when the cost starts rising.
Bent push rod usually a dropped/bent valve, broken piston, or rod bearing spun up and the piston is slapping the head and the valves, which would be crankshaft, rod, probably piston, and reman cylinder head. Yank the head off and see what you have before you make any other moves or decisions.
All the above and if you are really unlucky and hit the trifecta it might need a cylinder block as well...... As mentioned earlier the oil pump was the Achilles' Heel of the earlier engines. See attached. All 257B machines up to SLK008304 (i.e. including yours which to be fair is a VERY early model) have the former design of oil pump that is known to be a problem.
Can the oil pump be changed easily, I agree I need to open it up and see the damage, worst case put a new engine if it’s too much to fix.
So that's the second fix? New shaft for the new oil pump? Love Cat, they're as bad as GM sometimes, LMAO!
I would pull the engine and tear it down Then I would get a parts list and pricing. I always consider my time in the price of doing things like this. Next I would add it all up including my labor. If it is 70 percent of the price of a remanufactured engine then I would buy the engine. The plus side is if you have to replace the engine. Then you already have it pulled. That's my two cents anyways. It's your dime and your time.
I've rebuilt quite a few of them 3024c engines. If you have a good block crank and head the resting to pricey ive seen one with a bent push rod cause was a spun rod bearing. Even then as long as the block isn't trashed its still a very doable repair. Weavers compact tractor is the place for parts or a maxiforce rebuild kit used both. Both are of good quality. I have a spare one of these engines at the shop I need to assemble one of these days. I'd also recommend checking out the oil pump/system closely.