This was working last time I used it and now dead. Screen comes on. Prescense detector works and screen light goes off when down. Solenoid doesn’t click, nothing on start switch. I don’t find any lights for the door sensor on or off and don’t remember if it will start with the door open and just won’t operate hydraulics or not. So not sure how to test that sealed unit to see if it’s the culprit. The main fuse at the battery has continuity etc. battery is good and fully charged, all fuses in the panel are fine. The symbols are comical but none appear to be a relay for the starter or related to the starter? Any ideas before I spend lots of money at my car dealer? Thanks!
Since there’s no click at the solenoid, I’d start there….are connections good, is power arriving when key is selected to start.
Got a Serial Number.? Do you have the LCD Advanced Display Panel installed on your machine.? If not please post a photo of the panel in the upper RH cornoer of the cab
How is your access to the starter? Maybe try hot wiring it or check ignition voltage at the starter?
Might be an idea to check the ground cables and the battery cables as one might be burnt off enough to cause problem. Don't be relying on a OHMS test as even one good strand will be a good test. Do you know how to do voltage drop testing? If you do then start there, if you don't we can walk you through. Simon C
Weekend warrior. Thanks for all of the suggestions. On the key there are 4 wires: Orange, grey, yellow and purple. If the key is in the off position there is 12v from orange to grey, on position then adds orange to yellow. Turning it to start, there is nothing from orange to purple as I would have expected. Does this indicate bad key? I included the screen as Nige requested. At the key I'm getting 12.3V and at the battery it's at 12.4V. (yes, I know I need a new battery but it has been starting it at those voltages normally)
If you provide a Serial Number I can look at the electrical schematic for it and answer your questions. There are too many possibilities of 257D to start guessing.
Just for your info, 12.4 volts is a 75% charged battery which will start that no problem at summer temperatures, and should be sufficient to do all trouble shooting. Since you have some kind of meter to have posted the voltage why not try 3 simple tests. #1 Find the battery negative and follow the cable to the frame. Touch your meter red positive on clean steel of the frame and Touch the meter black lead on the center of the Negative Post of the battery. Have someone turn the key to start position and hold it there for 5-10 seconds. If the meter reads more than 0.4 Volts you have a problem in this connection. #2 Stab the dead center of the Poitive post of battery with the Red Test lead and Stab the stud of the positive post of the starter Solenoid ( Large Red Cable ) with the black test lead while someone tries to start and holds it there for 5 or more seconds. If your meter reads more than 0.4 volts your cable is not good at one end or more. #3 Stab the Center of Battery Positive post with your Red Test Lead and all 4 connections of the 50 and 100 amp breakers in the engine compartment with your Black test lead . The power comes to both of these breakers from the battery. If your meter reads more than 0.5 Volts while someone tries to start for you one of the breakers is sick. These simple test will rule out a lot of problems before starting the parts cannon. Please post your Serial number as I just went off a schematic I had and would be surprised if much has changed. These tests cost nothing and will help rule out the problem. Take a picture if you forget like me and you will have the instructions when at machine. Simon C
EZW00682 Thanks!
Perfect. So refer to the illustration below. You will note that although there are four wires on the switch itself, there are only three on the machine harness connector L-C14. The switch terminal marked C does not connect to anything. Test by back-probing at connector L-C14 as follows: - 1. You should have permanent Batt+ between wire 105-RD (Pin 4) and machine frame ground. 2. With the key ON you should have Batt+ between wire 308-YL (Pin 1) and machine frame ground. Turn the key OFF and that voltage should disappear. 3. When you turn the key from the ON to the START position you should have Batt+ between wire 307-OR (Pin 3) and machine frame ground that disappears when you let the key go back to the ON position.
Nige gave 3 simple tests to test a portion of the control circuit. Have you gotten back to the machine to test? Just curious if or what you found. Simon C
Yes, just yesterday I found what was going on. Everything was fine except there was a dead short between the switch and the solenoid. Once I fixed it, it started right up. For anyone else, it presented as no voltage on the 307-OR to ground per above with @Nige despite the key being on. (And in my case it also caused an interlock in the key mechanism that presents as turning but doesn't turn far enough to actually start until you reset the circuit by turning off the key which was further complicating matters. Thanks for the help!