After several issues with my 247b not wanting to start without fidgeting the key around it finally gave out. I followed the troubleshooting steps as outlined in the SIS "Engine does not crank" and once I got to step 8 it appears the switch has failed since it read well over the 5ohms. Ordered a new switch and it still did not crank so after checking the wiring I think the switch may not be wired the same as the OEM. Below is the original vs new wiring OEM terminal 1: relay. New terminal 1 battery OEM terminal 2: control new terminal 2: ground OEM terminal 3: start. New terminal 3: start OEM terminal 4: battery. New terminal 4: ignition Am I correct in thinking terminal 3 is the only wire the same or do I just not understand the temrminology? On the new switch. Any thoughts on if I can just move these pins around to make it work or do I need to order another switch to try. This is in fact the second one that says it's a straight replacement for the 142-8858 I pulled out that did not work
Can you start with a Serial Number please, so we can look at appropriate the electrical schematic.
Was the new switch an OEM one.?
S/N: CAT247BCMTL04073 I ordered from Friday Parts which claimed it was a direct replacement for the 142-8858 but it's definitely not a CAT part as there is no part number or name. The other unit was just a no name off Amazon to try
Well below is the switch as shown on the schematic. Batt+ in on 105 RD, Pin 4. Switched power out on 308-YL, Pin 1. Start power out on 307-OR, Pin 3. The best I can suggest is to test the continuity between terminals B & R with the switch in the ON position, and B & S with the switch in the START position. Out of interest did you test the allegedly defective original switch that you removed.?
Initially I tested the ohms between B&S on the original switch in the start position per the SiS and it bounces between 7.6 and 9 so per the doc it was bad since it was above 5 I tested the old and new pet your suggestion and here's what I got. On B&S they both show open. On B&R I got open on the new switch and 4.7 on the original. This was in the run position, NOT the start position On the new switch I read 3.7 between pins 3 bat and 4 in when in the run position
Put the switch to the ON/RUN position, then find which terminal gives continuity with the B terminal - that terminal will be R. Then turn the switch to the start position and find out which terminal has continuity to terminal B - that will be S.
I really appreciate it Nige. I just started making some dinner but will check on these tomorrow and get back with my findings. I assume its safe to move those wires around within the terminal once I figure them out?
To clarify. For the first test in the ON position there should be ONLY ONE terminal (R) on the switch that gives continuity to terminal B. When the switch is turned to the START position the terminal found to be R in the first test will still have continuity with terminal B but additionally a second terminal (S) will also have continuity as long as the switch is held in the START position.
I haven't had an opportunity to check these yet but I'm curious if shorting the B,R &S terminal would initiate an engine start? If it does that should prove the ignition switch is the issue and not something else in the system correct?
If you power wire 308-YL from batt+ then touch a live wire to 307-OR the starter should crank. Having slept on this I have money riding on the possibility that the original key start switch was fine and the problem is somewhere else.
I'll give these a try after work. Really hope it's the switch-my grass does not like this thing sitting on it for over 2 weeks now
Nige you were right and it was not the ignition switch. Turned out to be the spade connection on the starter motor feeding from the start relay. As I went through the tests I got the correct voltage at the spade so I moved on and ended up running through the full gauntlet all the way to jumping the interlock harness pins to no avail. Finally got lucky and while someone was trying to start it I fumbled with that spade on the starter and sure nuff she cranked over. Replaced the spade with a new one and problem solved. Two weeks of downtime and troubleshooting for a 25cent connector. Wonderful.
Oh my word, I love being right.........