I have a 249D. Recently, I’ve noticed the battery dead every time I go out to use the machine. When i check for continuity through the kill switch, it proves positive. So, I initially thought it was a bad Kill switch, which this machine is equipped with. I installed a new switch, same problem. I did some testing and determined that when I connect a test light to the negative battery cable and and ground it out to the body, The test light lights up. So I know I have a draw. I have also tested with a voltmeter I have about 11.7 V that I’m reading. I pulled every fuse and relay in the cab, and the test light did not go out . Is there another fuse somewhere else on this machine that I could pull to see if the test light goes out then I will know where my drain is. Or any other ideas before i bring it to CAT. Thank you.
Welcome to the Forums BenB! Glad to have you! I am no mechanic but we have several very knowledgable members here that can help. In order to speed things up the mechanics will need the serial # of the machine in order to determine the build configuration. Also moved this from skid steers to the CTL forum. Best of luck!
Thanks, the serial number is: CAT0249DHGWR02168
I'll send you a schematic. Keep an eye on your messages. A thought. Does it have anything aftermarket connected to the electrical system.? TBH if opening the master switch contacts (you mean the shown one below, right.?) doesn't stop the parasitic drain that is baffling. Have you tried disconnecting one of the cables to said switch, and also the ground cables from the engine cylinder block, cab-to-frame, starter motor and alternator.?
You're in good hands Benb.
Does it have anything aftermarket connected to the electrical system.? NO IT DOES NOT TBH if opening the master switch contacts (you mean the shown one below, right.?) doesn't stop the parasitic drain that is baffling. CORRECT, THAT SWITCH, IF I HAVE IT ON OR OFF, THERE IS CONTINUITY THROUH THE SWITCH. I HAVE TESTED IT ON AND OFF THE MACHINE, OFF THE MACHINE IT WORKS FINE Have you tried disconnecting one of the cables to said switch, and also the ground cables from the engine cylinder block, cab-to-frame, starter motor and alternator.? I HAVE NOT. WILL TRY THAT. ANY ONE I SHOULD START WITH?
That cannot possibly be correct. If there is continuity through it whatever position the switch is in then it has failed. Try bypassing the switch as a test by connecting both cables to one terminal of the switch, then disconnect the ground cable at the machine frame side. Does your parasitic drain disappear.? I would start with the cable from the master switch to machine frame ground. Followed by the starter, alternator, engine block, & cab in that order.
I have a new switch installed, it works as it should. If I disconnect the switch side wire that goes to the machine frame ground and connect the negative side of a test light to this wire, then touch the frame ground stud with the point of a test light, the light lights up. I still test for a parasitic drain and I do have it . I will o disconnect the starter wire, and alternator now. Thanks
Don't forget the engine block ground cable.
I have removed the: starter wire from the battery positive connection, alternator wire, engine block ground and still i have a parasitic drain Thanks for the help
OK. Now start with the fuse block. Remove all the fuses - every one of them. There are 20 in total, 10 in the top half of the fuse box and 10 in the bottom half. Just make a note of the fuse ratings and where each one fits. Do you still have the drain.? if not then start reinstalling the fuses one at a time with the test light installed in place of the ground cable between the master switch and machine frame ground.
Thanks for the support. I removed all the fuses, with a note how they go back in. I set up for the test with my test light and yes i still have the drain with all the fuses and relays removed. Interesting note, i am not sure it matters, but the test light always flutters when doing the parasitic drain test-constantly lit but flutter. When i was in the cab with all the fuses removed, when i did the test i could hear the control panel flutter also, almost mimicking the light. So i still have a drain. This below is a note i made to myself on 6/6/22. I was having a problem and wanted to have record if i brought the machine to CAT: I am the second owner of this machine. I have owned it for 8 months or so. No problems. While operating the machine last week, the instrument panel went blank. We Ran the machine for another two or three hours. i started and stopped the machine with no problem with the panel blank. When I was done for the day, I then went to check if the problem was a fuse. There was one fuse blown. It was a 15 amp fuse in the cab in the lower set of fuses. position 7. I thought I had found the solution. I replaced it and started up the machine but the display panel was still blank. When I went to shut the machine down, with the key removed, there were a couple lights it lit up. It showed the machine still had power. I had a choice- to remove the fuse which I’m sure was the reason why the lights were still on (not sure why this fuse did not blow like the last), or shut off the main disconnect at the rear door. The main disconnect switch would not move so I removed the ground that is bolted to the machine and that shut down the power to the machine completely. I have since then replaced that 15 amp fuse with a new fuse and for some reason it has not blown yet, but it does keep the power on. Shutdown the power for two days, restarted and no problem
Interesting. Go to Grid D-10, Page 8 on the schematic. There you will find 3 relays. The one on the left is marked "PWR ECM" and is energized all the time the master switch is ON. Locate the 2-pin connector marked C-C19 on the schematic and disconnect it. Anything happen.? Can you hear the relay click when you power/de-power it.? If that fails try removing the relay completely. #44 is the location on the machine BTW.
Thanks for the second picture. i did not scroll down enough to see it. I figured it out on my own. Now that i am going to respond, i see it. I assume this image is behind the seat? It says on the wiring diagram CAB REAR WIRING, and the box on the left is the fuse box? Is that the rear window above? If so, i just left the machine and i need to figure out how to remove the cover that is hiding all this electrical. Unless it is somewhere else?
These are images of that area on my 262D3. Accessed best when Cab is raised, as this is on the rear cab wall. The orange wires and fuse holder are add-ons by me.
Thinking quietly, out loud..... Your test light across the master shutoff will glow at first connect. You're waking up module's. The best way to test would be with a multimeter set to Amperes. Placed in between the battery negative and the chassis, I'd expect 50ma after allowing modules to go to sleep (usually 10 minutes). If your battery is draining with master switch off, you have a battery issue. Most auto parts stores have a capacitance type battery tester. I think you'll find a poor battery rather than a parasitic draw.
OK, i lifted up the cab. With the kill switch on, all the fuses removed, the ignition key off, i disconnect the 2-pin connector marked C-C19. I do not hear a click. should the main key switch be on? should the fuses be installed? The battery, i believe, is draining due to a parasitic drain. I use the test light to check for a parasitic drain. I am using the multimeter to check continuity across the terminals. Again thanks for the help
You need the master switch in the ON position, ignition key switch OFF, fuses out. Turning on the master switch should pull in the Main ECM PWR relay provided that connector C-C12 is plugged in. If you unplug it and plug it back in again you ought to be able to hear the relay clicking. (The 2 other relays to the right of that one are only pulled in when the ignition key switch is moved to the ON position. TBH I think HMC is on to something regarding the need to test the battery condition. I would agree with him to do that first before moving on.
I agree with HMC, see what total parasitic draw ACTUALLY is, after letting machine power down. Also remove key, if there is one from ign, and close cab door, when doing test. A test light is good for higher amp draws, not milli amps. But in case you do have a higher amp draw, set milli amp to 10 amp scale so you don't cook fuse protection in your meter, then check with 2 amp scale.
I will do as suggested from Arny L: "see what total parasitic draw ACTUALLY is, after letting machine power down. Also remove key, if there is one from ign, and close cab door, when doing test. But in case you do have a higher amp draw, set milli amp to 10 amp scale so you don't cook fuse protection in your meter, then check with 2 amp scale." I did do this, with no success, but will redo today "You need the master switch in the ON position, ignition key switch OFF, fuses out. Turning on the master switch should pull in the Main ECM PWR relay provided that connector C-C12 is plugged in. If you unplug it and plug it back in again you ought to be able to hear the relay clicking." HMC suggests "The best way to test would be with a multimeter set to Amperes. Placed in between the battery negative and the chassis, I'd expect 50ma after allowing modules to go to sleep (usually 10 minutes)." I will try this today or tonight Lastly, when i started noticing a problem, I charged the battery and took it to two auto parts stores one right after the other and they both said the battery was good when they put the tester (with the spring coils-not sure what it is called). Thanks again
Using a "load tester" on a battery is not accurate. I use my ESI720 for battery testing and matching. When you have 4 batteries per excavator, you'll always find only one or two are garbage. The others get tested and paired with matching values, or placed in single battery machines.
I’ve only ever used my 30 year old AVR tester. Never let’s me down.
I'm still lost at relay pulling in with key OFF.
I believe that was to test if there is a short to ground on the control side of ecm pwr relay. Unplugging control wires, and then turning on master switch, you shouldn’t hear relay come on. Unless it’s shorted. That’s how I read it.
My multi meter has a setting for mA and A, I assumed the mA is milliamps and used this for my test. I am no expert with this tool. "see what total parasitic draw ACTUALLY is, after letting machine power down. Also remove key, if there is one from ign, and close cab door, when doing test. But in case you do have a higher amp draw, set milli amp to 10 amp scale so you don't cook fuse protection in your meter, then check with 2 amp scale." I DID THE TEST SET AT mA- I GOT .20 "You need the master switch in the ON position, ignition key switch OFF, fuses out. Turning on the master switch should pull in the Main ECM PWR relay provided that connector C-C12 is plugged in. If you unplug it and plug it back in again you ought to be able to hear the relay clicking." I HEAR NOTHING. I EVEN TRIED IT THE WAY ARNY L SUGGESTED. HMC suggests "The best way to test would be with a multimeter set to Amperes. Placed in between the battery negative and the chassis, I'd expect 50ma after allowing modules to go to sleep (usually 10 minutes)." I WAITED THE 10 MINUTES AND CAME UP WITH .2. NOW I DONT KNOW WHAT .2 IS REALLY BECAUSE I SEE I SHOULD EXPECT 5MA.
What scale is your meter set to. Either 200ma scale, or if you have a fancier one. you can push range selection until you read 3 decimal places. So 50ma, would look like 0.050, 20ma would look like 0.020. If your on wrong scale, you might be reading 200ma, 0.200. If your reading 0.020ma, your fine, and do not have a parasitic draw that would cause a problem. Again allow enough time for modules to power down, amp reading should spike when first connected, but gradually fall to lowest setting. I like to wait 30 minutes, because i have been fooled before. And make sure nothing is on, no keys in ign, close door etc.
I think with your meter .20 is actually .200ma. It just doesn't read the 3rd decimal. That would be a problem for sure.
Here is a picture of my meter and the setting i had it at
Use the 600ma scale for your leads, and take a picture, hooked up to machine.
This is my meter, i dont see where i can use a 600ma scale. Is my meter not good enough? Again, i am not an electrical guy. Sorry Thanks I will take a picture of my reading once i do the test
You’re in the right holes, it says 600ma max. Are all your fuses and cables etc back in place? They should be. Insert your meter leads in between the ground side as you did before. Disconnect should be in on position. Key off and out, door closed. You should see initial spike, and then gradual decline. Wait 15 to 20 minutes. Take picture.
All fuses and cables etc back in place. Disconnect is in on position. Key off and out, door closed. Meter leads in between the ground side as I did before.-See picture After 20 min i did not have a spike, just a constant -.20-See picture note- i replaced the disconnect switch a few days ago, but this switch does the same thing. When the ground wire from the disconnect to the ground stud is not connected-Switch tests fine, meaning i have continuity when its on, and no continuity when off. When the ground wire from the disconnect to the ground stud is connected-Switch has continuity when its on or off. Which is comes back to a sign of a parasitic drain -right? I have installed a power disconnect on the positive side battery stud for now. Thanks
Starting from scratch... If you turn the master disconnect OFF, does the battery drain? As for the meter, that's 0.2mA if I'm reading correctly, not 0.2Amp That's essentially zero. The proper way to test for draw is to turn master disconnect OFF. Leave key OFF and door shut. Connect each lead to each of the two terminals on the master disconnect switch. You're multimeter is now the ground circuit. See what reading is on "mA" scale and then on "A" scale. There is no need to install a positive circuit cutout, period. If you're draining with the master OFF, it's a battery issue.
What happens if you turn disconnect off?
I’m pretty sure that’s 200ma. Those meters only read 2 decimal places. 3 places right of the decimal is milli. My fluke would show 0.200ma. His, meter is basic, and only shows 2 decimals 0.20ma. That’s why good meters show accurate readings. If I’m wrong, I stand corrected. Besides, it should show more than .2ma on a normal reading, don’t you agree?
I agree with Arny L about it not being .2 ma. That would be way to low to ever discharge a battery. I have tested most of the newer trucks and they draw up to 75 ma , some continuous or 5-10 ma like my Chev., then ramps up to 50 ma., every 45 seconds for a micro second. If yours is drawing 200 ma., you will have a dead battery in colder weather in only 2-3 days max, maybe sooner. Leave your meter hooked up and pull all the fuses one at a time, or all out with a chart and put back in slowly. Not sure if you mentioned complete disconect of alternator. Have someone else with a high end meter check for a couple minutes in case your meter is off. That happened to a work colleage last week. Hope it helps. Simon C
I appreciate the help on this. Leave your meter hooked up and pull all the fuses one at a time, or all out with a chart and put back in slowly. I DID REMOVE EVERY FUSE AND RELAY FROM INSIDE THE CAB WITH ONE TEST LIGHT LEAD CONNECTED TO THE BATT NEGATIVE AND THE OTHER END TO THE MACHINE GROUND AND THE LIGHT STAYED ON. Not sure if you mentioned complete disconnect of alternator. I DID DO THIS EARLIER Here is a final test i did last night. Test light lead connected to batt negative and other end connected to the machine ground. With master switch off, no test light. With master switch on-the light stays on. So, in my mind i think i have drain, right? Now here are the multi meter tests on A
Now with the Ma reading
Yes, you do. It would help if you had a better meter. But, your test light and meter both confirm a draw. There must be something stuck on, that’s giving you that reading. In previous post Nige mention ECM power relay is powered, anytime master switch is on, that’s with ign switch in off position. What happens when you pull that relay out. Other than that, you will just have to undo things one at a time, with meter connected, until you see a change. Is there a radio/stereo in this machine, those can act up.
Arny, All three main relays are powered when the master switch is ON. In the schematic below all wires drawn in RED have battery power with the master switch ON/key switch OFF. All wires drawn in BLUE have battery power with the key switch ON, BLACK wires are ground. From the top:- 1. 101-C41 is batt+ to the key switch and the warning light display. 2. 101-C45 batt+ incoming. 3. 128-C107 & 128-C5 are batt+ to the engine ECM. 4. C903-C59 also connects to the engine ECM. This must be the grounding circuit that pulls in the #1 relay. 5. When the key switch is turned ON, incoming power is on 308-C177 & C178 pulls in the #2 & #3 relays.
Here is an image of those three relays with the cab raised. The way they are installed on the machine is identical to the way they appear on the schematic.
Well I would focus on the powered,key off circuits. So,15amp key sw fuse, I would pull. All relays share power with incoming 101-c45, 2-30amp fuses, power ECM, a 20 and 50 amp, power module,a 20 and 60 amp, on power module 2. Remove one at a time. Where they are located I don’t know. That looks like a good place for electrical problems
In benbuilders other post, he mentioned panel lights that didn’t shut off, and blown 15 amp fuse, this is heading in that direction I think
The fuses shown as #6, 7, 8, & 9 are located behind the black plastic covers located immediately above each relay. The red rubber covers are for the electrical connections (#4, 5, & 10).
Here's what you should find under each of the three covers. USB stands for "unswitched battery"
Outstanding….benbuilder are you getting this? You can try removing these fuses with your meter hooked up. Tell us what you find. I would try unswitched fuses first.
I jus got home from a long day. thanks for the info. Tomorrow i will do some testing. I cant thank you enough for the patience an help
I just pulled each fuse individually and had the meter hooked up to Ma. The reading never changed from the .20 i had when i started the test. Thanks for the help
Any unswitched power wire that feeds from the battery towards relays or fuses that is rubbed through just enough to touch frame, another ground wires internal strands will light up your test light or put milliamps of current through your meter. With someone watching meter try wiggling all the red wires you see in case you luckily find the leakage to ground. Lastly can't remember if you disconnected every wire from alternator. Hope you find it. Simon C
I did have the alternator disconnected previously I just went through the whole machine and wiggled as many wires as i could while someone watched the meter. No luck. i feel i am at the end of my talent abilities. If i bring this to CAT, do they have a computer they hook this up to so they can determine the problem?
The computer will be of no use in a case such as this one. Contrary to popular belief they are not an all-singing all-dancing solution. Apart from I hope that you are aware that by taking the machine to a dealer you are effectively signing a blank cheque in their favour at somewhere around $150/hour for diagnostic time. A full day for a tech on that machine is likely to cost you North of $1200 with no guarantee of a solution.
Shirley someone else with any "D" model can shut off their master switch, place an ammeter across the its poles, and convey the value to us, to use as a comparison?
Need to hook up a fluke or high end meter to find out exactly how much the draw is. 0.2 milliamps will never kill a battery, nor do I think any lamp will light. Find out exactly if less than 50 milliamps of draw. A brand new meter is way less than a service call, and you will have exact numbers. You can also use it for the next 20 years. I believe your meter is faulty. Simon C
Are those relays removable, or fixed I was just going to say, either pull all the relays out, or pull all the control side connectors off c-c19, c-c11,c-c80. Also there is another bat feed, 101-c45 rd-4, that feeds those relays, is it fused. You could undo the batt juction terminal as in the picture.
Look at it this way, .2ma wont drain a battery, if you read it as 20ma, then that is acceptable, it wont drain a battery, in a short amount of time like he said it did. We can all agree that .200ma will drain a battery. Draw your own conclusions. When he disconnected ground cable in earlier post, machine fired up after after 3 days of sitting.
If nothing else works, unplug the ECM, just don't to it, with power on. Disconnect switch off. Maybe there's a stuck driver.
Nige, do you have wiring to show what controls the instrument panel power. This is were all the trouble started. I'm assuming its the power relay. Is there a connector to unplug panel
Removable. They plug into the holders. If they are removed just be careful identifying what came out of which slot. The one on the left is a different Part Number to the other two.
Interesting video
Upon your suggestion, i decided to disconnect wires and see where the draw is. I connected my test light on long leads as i have before to show a parasitic drain and laid under the cab in its raised position. Behind the seat, In the area of the fuses shown as #6, 7, 8, & 9 shown in post 40, 41, 45, which are located behind the red covers for the electrical connections for relays 45, 44, and 48, i finally disconnect a wire which shut off the light. See attached pictures. i feel hopeful. I will now try and go and look at the wire diagram to see where it goes. The fuse it leads to appears to be fine.,
Is that wire marked 104 on the outside by any chance.? See top LH corner of the illustration in Post #40 on the previous page. The wire going out of the fuse should be 105. I think it is the fused power supply (the fuse is visible right at the top of your photos) that feeds the key switch and the Monitor (Page 8, Grid E-3) if you follow it through the schematic. Replacing the wire and pulling the fuse should give you the same result. If that is the case my next suggestion would be to replace the fuse and unplug the Monitor Panel then see what happens
It is this one, I think 104? (the fuse is visible right at the top of your photos) YES IT IS I dont doubt you but is this the schematic? and which wire is it because i dont see 105-c41 RD14? once i -(or you O) identify which wire-you want me to install a new lead rom the fuse to the back of the monitor?
You have the schematic, correct.? I thought I sent it to you but I may be mistaken.
I forgot to add this picture in my last post. Yes i have the schematic, but i dont see where the wire - 105-c41 RD14 is in this picture at the monitor
He means put the wire that's causing the draw back in place, pull the fuse, and then go to your Monitor panel and unplug it, thereby eliminating the draw, hopefully.
Sorry, replace wire that's causing draw. pull fuse, check draw with meter or test lamp. If its gone, unplug monitor, replace fuse
On Page 8 of the schematic if you follow wire 105-C41 from the fuse above the Main PWR Relay to Grid H-12 you will find it goes into a splice. The wires coming out of the splice are 105-C163 and 105-C164. Wire 105-C163 goes to CONN 15 where it becomes 105-L45 (because it is now in a different wire harness), then goes to another splice where it becomes 105-L36 (unswitched power supply to the Monitor) & 105-L62 which is the supply to the key switch. Wire 105-C164 goes from the splice to CONN 5 where it morphs into 105-EJ5 which is the unswitched power supply to the engine ECM located at Grid D-14 on Page 9. The ring terminal that you disconnected directly above the ECM Power relay is an unswitched supply to 3 circuits via the 15A fuse. If you ever want to kill that supply you have to turn the Master Switch OFF - assuming it works correctly that is. 1. Monitor Panel. 2. Key switch. 3. Engine ECM.
Great info, so you have the possibility of a draw on anyone of those circuits, however, since you had trouble initially with monitor panel, that's why were suggesting you unplug connector to monitor, and see if that's the fix. If not then, there are 2 left. Your almost there.
An extract from the notes on the schematic - the ones nobody ever bothers to read ....... The note at the bottom is the important one. All wires should have the number printed on the outside of the insulation every 6" or so of length. So for the example below it would be a pink wire with "325" printed on the outside.
OK. I am excited that we are getting somewhere. I am now starting to feel a bit over my head, but last time that happened, i found the potential problem. So i need to take my time and take the proper panels off to access these harnesses. I know inside the cab, right side. I see the schematics in the diagram Nige sent. I wish i had the schematics on one sheet, I may do that later, Post 69 is great info, i knew part of it. Post 68 is confusing right now, i will study it though. If i am to replace a new wire as mentioned on post 66, I feel that the splices ay be compromised. I think i will disconnect each circuit until i find the draw, then go from there. This may take a few days. Thanks for all the help
Post #68 is NOT telling you to run a NEW wire. Let me attempt to explain:- 1. Reconnect the ring terminal to the Main PWR Relay & tighten the nut - RED arrow. Pay particular attention to whether you see a spark of any kind when you reinstall the terminal or if you hear a kind of fizzing sound. 2. Remove the fuse - BLUE arrow. 3. Do you still have NO parasitic drain.? TBH nothing should change but we need to confirm. 4. If nothing changes, go to the cab and disconnect the 12-pin connector # L-C24 (illustrated below) on the back side of the Monitor Panel. 5. Replace the fuse. Check again for parasitic drain. Report your findings.
Sorry for terminology, put ringed wire back on terminal stud. You don’t have to replace any wire
OK. I am almost have the monitor panel removed. It seems i need to remove the window or there is one other bolt keeping me from removing it. Any hints from those who have done this? Its very loos but the panel is hanging up on the window edge I have, what i think are all the window screws removed from outside, but still no movement
Attached directions And below is whole instruction for adding monitor.
I dont know where you guys get this info, but i am grateful for the help. I managed to get to the back of the console display. Now to remove the plug/connection. I moved the red (lock??) away from the display but can seem to disconnect the harness plug. Any help? I dont want to break anything now. EDIT- I just found a picture on line, it looks like i need to go all the way back and the hook stays with the display?
The depressing tab has been broken. Place small screwdriver under arrow and lift about 1/16". The latch is still there, just the depressing ear has gone the way of the dodo.
Don’t you mean depress the black latch?
I took off this plug connector, installed the fuse and checked for a parasitic drain. The test light flashed very fain and quick and that was it. No consistent light. So i guess that means its the monitor?
It would appear so, but remove the fuse again, but this time unplug the engine ECM and repeat the test with the Monitor disconnected. If you get no test light at all then reconnect the Monitor and repeat with the engine ECM disconnected.
The ECM, that is the part shown in post 13, where the arrow labeled 44 is? Will do this next: "remove the fuse again, but this time unplug the engine ECM and repeat the test with the Monitor disconnected. If you get no test light at all then reconnect the Monitor and repeat with the engine ECM disconnected."
Nope. That is the Machine ECM. The engine ECM #54 is fixed to the side of the engine compartment. See Page 19 of the schematic you have.
Don’t forget the key switch is spliced into the monitor circuit. Before you condem the monitor or ECM, the key switch should also be unplugged. You don’t want to buy an new monitor, and still have a draw, to find it’s a key switch.
I unplugged the Machine ECM. With the monitor fuse removed. See pict I then, with my test light, again checked for the drain. The same thing happens with the test light. If i keep the ground of the test light connected to the negative cable, then put the point of the test light on a machine ground, the light will light momentarily light then fizzle out. if i let the machine sit for a bit then do the test, the light is a bit brighter and longer but fizzles out. In neither case does the light stay on for more than a split second. I did not disconnect the key switch as that is another process.
You have to have the fuse in place , every time your checking a circuit. Check each circuit separately, if you are checking ECM, monitor and key switch pugged in. Checking key switch, ECM and monitor plugged in. You remove the fuse for the disconnect, but replace it when checking for draw.
Maybe i misread post 79, i thought i was to have the fuse removed. I will go retest. But, right now with the fuse removed-which means the monitor is not in play, and the ECM disconnected. I do have the test light still lighting momentarily. Is this a flag?
Sorry if I caused any confusion. In an attempr to prevent any damage to expensive electrical components I suggested removing the fuse before connecting/disconnecting either ECMs or the Monitor Panel, just in case you get a spark somewhere. The fuse has to be reinstalled before carrying out any test.
Why test light when you has multimeter?
Why test light when you has multimeter?-For me i am more comfortable with the light. Remember, i am not you guys. I am not confident. I will try to use it more I installed the fuse. ECM disconnected. the test light shines bright and constant. I guess that means i need to 1. put the ECM wires back on 2. Pull the fuse, 3. take apart the console on the left side of inside the cab and disconnect the key switch. 4. Put in the fuse 5. check for drain ?????????? Thanks again for the patience and help
Pull your fuse before connecting ECM, was monitor plugged in when you did this test? If yes, then it’s coming down to monitor or key switch. You just eliminated the ECM, congratulations.
Yes the monitor was plugged in. I just pulled the fuse, going to take apart the left side now Thanks
Took apart the left side, removed the fuse, disconnected the ignition switch. installed the fuse and tested for the parasitic drain with the test light, sorry forgot to use the meter. Light stays on monitor and ECM were connected. So that means the monitor, right?
I would say all testing points to monitor. Sometimes its good practice to redo tests just to rule out confusion. Since its all opened up. But I would be confidant in results. Does it make sense.
I know you had some doubts right back at the start of this thread regarding the efficiency of your master switch as in "were the contacts opening correctly when the switch was moved from ON to OFF.?" Did you ever resolve that issue to your satisfaction.? If so you can eliminate the parasitic drain without the need to replce the Monitor by turning the master switch to the OFF position any time you are going to shut the machine down for an extended period. A replacement Monitor was about $1500 the last time I saw one priced.
Thanks Nige for all your help, with electrical diagrams and knowledge. You make it easier for all of us.
I cant thank you enough for the help you have all given me. especially Arny L and Nige. And for not giving up on me. I know i like to help out in other forums where i know something that can help others. But this was beyond that. Almost 100 posts to get through this. I know the monitor ia 1500.00 but its a good machine and low hours so i just may do it. I will keep you posted. Thanks again.