Would there be Wisdom to Clean the EGR Valve on my Skid with 4,400 hours? Tips, tricks, etc. Bought off auction…Just going through full detail Cleaning services considering how much dirt is in and around engine bay, under cab… Any input is much appreciated. Thanks -Stalwart
Soaking in simple green can work well. Then, a rinse with a spray of carb cleaner. Other times, nothing will touch it. Your mileage may vary.
Here's a link to when I pulled my motor apart and blocked EGR, I think I've got a pretty shot of what the whole thing looks like in case you need it. And to answer your question directly, I have done this previously for a customer on a Duramax EGR with my steam pressure washer, fabricated a quick piece of sheet metal duct and welded a quick connect fitting on the end. Put some pool cleaner in the chemical wash port and ran it for about 5 or 10 minutes. Worked well. EGRs should be illegal.
I don’t want to be that guy, but you shouldn’t talk about getting paid for EPA clean air act violations on the HEF. And yes, I agree with you. Of course, you did that in Minecraft, correct? Not an actual Dmax. Or, maybe you live in Snow Mexico? Never mind.
At no point did I discuss getting paid for violating EPA rules?? (Also, let's pray the Chevron ruling gets rid of some of this garbage in the future). The Duramax EGR discussion was in reference to fixing an EGR to regain functionality, not removing the system.
Thank you for the appropriate input all. @Coaldust @FLYWHEEL PRIME : what is a common symtom(s) of a clogged EGR Valve? Thanks!
On-highway stuff you will get the infamous P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation “A” Flow Insufficient Detected, code. Off-highway stuff will be something similarly worded.
@17289D "what are symptoms of a clogged valve" @Coaldust 's response was related to faults, but I don't think that's your question. Regarding operating symptoms, there are 2 different possibilities. If the EGR valve is clogged and cannot actuate, you might get a high/low voltage or signal error if it is trying to move and cannot. I've seen a couple goofy problems in the past related to "Data erratic - invalid data - intermittent or incorrect" that was just a simple EGR valve failure. It can also be stuck open vs closed, which results in different symptoms, like low power or bogging under load. This will eventually result in an EGR message, but timing and specific code would be a gamble.
Makes sense. I am getting engine Derate under load…I can’t even cut into 2 inches of material. Along with that, that is why I have asked if my 2686-8/E696-3 codes would induce engine Derate. Seeing this, looks like my cause for Derate would be that EGR Valve…./ No codes involved in that yet, also leading me to believe this is true because the machine does Regen too often for my liking. May I receive a schematic/ what is Involved to get that valve and chamber cleaned/replaced? Thank you. TAW06875 -Stalwart
Others in here know far more than I do about cat specific issues, especially the nuances of the 3.3B and 3.8. However, there are some logical connections to make regarding your EGR failure/clog and regen issues. More than likely your DPF is also part of the problem. If your EGR is so clogged it cannot actuate, your DPF is in the same state (I would assume). You probably need to do the same thing I just did, yank the motor, pull the emissions system apart and clean it, then reinstall. If you can get your hands on an ECM from a country with no emissions, that also might be of use.....
They will not AFAIK. The E696 (Opposite Machine Movement Commands Disabled) Event is a result of the 2685-8 speed sensor Code. Only when both sensors on one side of the machine are supplying genuine signals can the ECM determine the direction in which the machine is moving. I'm assuming that you are not getting any Codes/Events relating to engine derate.? What action if any have you taken up to now regarding the engine fuel supply system.?
Excuse me for my knowledge: “AFAIK”? Are you using these two codes in correlation with my two current codes? No Codes/Events present regarding EGR/DPF. I have drained Fuel/Supplied New Filters pre and main. Other than these three actions, nothing else.
As far as I know........ You said above you had those two. I assumed they were both Active. As I mentioned above the E696 is a consequence of the 2686-8. Apologies for the 2685 typo.
Yes, this is correct.
Let me attempt to explain a little how the speed sensors work. There are two sensors built into a common body on each side of the machine. The sensor signals are generated by the teeth of a gear in the drive motor passing in front of the sensor. Depending on which of the two sensors is triggered first it is possible for the Machine ECM to detect the direction in which the machine is moving. For example if #1 sensor is triggered before #2 the machine is moving forwards, if #2 is triggered before #1 then the machine is moving in reverse. The rate at which the gear teeth pass the sensors enables the ECM to determine the speed of travel. Unless both sensors are supplying genuine signals it is impossible for the ECM to detect direction of movement, therefore the E696 (Opposite Machine Movement Commands Disabled) happens.
I assume that your machine has an LCD Advanced Display as you are reading Codes/Events. Correct me if I am wrong.
-With Key on, Engine off,Parking Engaged -Parameter: 16,704 RPM Left Drive motor All I have to do is touch neutral disengagement and throws the 695-3 Event Level 3. I understand these functions and there is more diag to be done on my end. You are correct on the Display. My main issue here is my engine Derate as I can not get work done.
Attached is the troubleshooting procedure for a 2686-8 Diagnostic Code. It contains a truncated electrical schematic but if you want a full copy please supply a Serial Number. I would suggest that you diagnose and fix the speed sensor Code as a first step just to eliminate it as a possibility.
To be Noted: Drive Motor reads Manufactured in 2023 and sensor looks new. Does this require an ET for resets? Once again here is the S/N: TAW06875 Thank you for the help. -Stalwart
To set you off on a different tack there are a number of things you can check as part of the fuel system diagnosis, especially on a machine where you personally have no idea of the maintenance history. There is a lot more to the system than simply changing filters. Refer to the diagram below. 1. Let the machine sit overnight then drain all the water and sediment from the bottom of the tank first thing the following morning. There is a bung accessible from undeneath the machine. 2. The head of the secondary fuel filter/water separator (#3) is famous for the small ports in it getting blocked up with crud. Remove the entire filter head from the machine, then refer to the RH diagram and pull all the connections, elbows etc, out of it. Blow through the head passages with compressed air and do the same for all the connections, verify that the check valve #3 is operating correctly then reassemble. 3. It's worthwile testing the pressure relief valve #5 to make sure it is relieving correctly. IIRC the relief pressure is 1.5psi or thereabouts. 4. When you replaced the main fuel filter element did you also replace the inlet screen - #7 in the LH image.? 5. Does the electric fuel pump run when you turn on the key before starting the engine.?
No it does not. Be aware of the comment in the procedure that the machine has to be driven a fair distance after receiving a good speed sensor signal before the Code will go from Active to Logged. Check your messages. Schematic on the way.
-I have blown through #3 RH but not the reset according to the filter head assembly. -I have not check #5 yet. -I have replaced #7. -Electronic Fuel Priming Mechanism is good to go. Will I be able to get away with removing #5 and entire Filter head assembly without draining my tank again? Thanks.
I would hope so.