I am new here and not much of a mechanic, but here we go. I bought a place and inherited a john deer 310a backhoe. It is a 3 cylinder so I think it’s a 1976 or older if they made it. It ran perfect. I left to work for a month out of state. Got back and brother –in – law had used it and parked it. I went to start it and it turns over, but won’t fire. Thought it might be cold and bad battery. Had battery checked, was bad so go new one. Put it on and put a little either, still nothing. Thought maybe bad fuel. Drained lines, fuel filter. Added heat treatment and new fuel. Cranked and received fuel to injector pump. Still nothing. Pulled injector fuel lines and was receiving fuel there. Pulled top and all springs in place and nothing stuck open while cranking. Check wiring. Cant find where it had kill switch. No fuses. Getting current to injector pump. Little low on hydraulic fluid , so added some. Moved bucket and hoe while cranking trying start. Everything moves, so pump working. Does crank a little better and faster when move hoe up for a bit, but then acts like it is struggling to crank. Put jumpers from two trucks on battery and cranked. Tried A lot of either. Does have suction from air input. Just wont even try to start over. It should try to fire with either even if fuel issue right? The only thing I can find is there is a wire that runs to the hydraulic pump in front that came undone. IF looking at tractor it comes to the right side. Not sure what it is or what it is for. Cant find any diagrams or manuals for this model on hydraulic pump or hoe in general. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If it is cranking fast enough and there is no smoke at the stack then it either doesn`t have enough compression or the injectors are dripping not spraying fuel. It also sounds by your description that the longer it cranks the slower the engine turns. If that is true you have a control valve open and building pressure. Is yours the radial hyd pump with a stroke solenoid on it ? It`s been a LONG time since working on one but if I remember, the solenoid destrokes the pump to start.
Check the solenoid valve on the pump, it is really hard to see or get at. The wire you found there could well be for the solenoid and if not connected or if the solenoid fails, the starter will have to turn the hydraulic pump as well as the engine, making it crank slowly, you say you had hydraulics while cranking so the solenoid is likely the problem. From what you say you have done you will have a lot of air in the system. Start bleeding the lines of air at the lift pump then work your way up to the filter and then at the pump inlet. After that bleed the injectors.
Thank you both GregD1 and norite for the replies. The solenoid is ordered from dealership and going pick it up and change out. The pic he sent of solenoid looks little different, but think its the same, just with ground. Will take old one in. I will recheck injectors lines for spraying at injectors and then bleed lines like suggested. I am sure the solenoid is now part of the issue, but still worried it could also be the injector pump (which ain't cheap). I will attempt these fixes and get back. No matter cost think on track to getting bettsy senior back in the game thanks to both your guidance.
Another trick when they don't want to spin fast enough to start is to turn the steering wheel back and forth. It is most likely the destroke solenoid on the pump. Do you have electric to it when cranking?
Welcome to the Forums You need three things to start a diesel Air, fuel and compression. You said you’re adding either so is the tractor trying to start if not check to see if the either is getting passed the filtering system if the air system is ok. Move on to the fuel system Crack the line at the injector number one you should be getting a lot of fuel if not check to see if the fuel shut off is stuck by moving it back and forth many time. If it is the pump there are guy on here that knows pumps and can help you better than I but if it’s not the fuel system. I f you are getting fuel do a compression test and keep note of the compressions then look up what the compression should be for the engine you have a lot of engines compressions are 300-350 PSI but yours could be different look up your engine to be sure what the PSI should be. Note if you have a cylinder Psi for example Cylinder one is 345 and cylinder 2 and 3 are 60 PSI less it maybe a head gasket if you’re lucky and not a cracked block. Good luck and welcome to the forums
One more thing not mention yet. There is a small metal rotating lever on the clutch pedal. Flip that lever up to allow the clutch pedal to go to the floor. This allows the mechanical clutch plate to open (if not rusted together from non-use) and disconnect the engine from the transmission while cranking. Should use all winter in cold climates.
If you haven't fixed it yet there is one more thing. The injection pumps are known to go on older high hour machines. There is a rubber damper disk inside the pump that is part of the governor. It falls apart sending rubber bits around in the pump. Happened to me. There is a little inspection cover on the pump. Two screws. Look inside. If you see little black rubber bits, that's the problem. I rebuilt mine myself.
im new to this thread but i pulled my injection pump off of my john deere 310a JDB pump and re sealed it and put it back on. i pinned the motor and had it back in the same timing place it was. it starts on starting fluid and runs rough. blueish smoke and stays at above half throttle and hardly changes when i move the throttle lever thanks
You did the work on the pump yourself? How sure are you that it went back together right? I'd say the timing is off if the pump is assembled right, but if you're not sure, I'd at least take the cover off and check the linkage connections, but I'm not a pump guy either. Not sure if that's even the way your pump works.
Yes I did my self and I'm not 100% sure but thinking the linkage for the governor is off adjustment
Sounds right, could be the timing is off also.
I appreciate the help. I will try to adjust the governor and also can I turn the pump when the engine is running or should I do it with it not running to adjust timing. I did make sure the pump was in the same place as before as far as timing marks before and after I took pump off.
Not sure 'bout this but, are you supposed to have the throttle lever on the IP tied full open when you take off the pump...? to keep the governor set right.
I'm not sure on that since mine has the electric fuel shutoff. But I would like to know if I need to do something to fix that problem thanks
Either the linkage is not connected correctly under the cover, or you have a spring in the wrong hole. And yes it sounds like the timing is off also.
Okay thanks will try to adjust timing then fix the linkage. I really appreciate the help