Had my pump rebuilt he also made abit of an ajustment on the govener should it be recaliberated just notice that when i dig seems to lug down abit. serial# 6ym02078
cant help unless I have the #'s off the pump itself.. Repost and I'll hook you up..
Yes, it does need to be calibrated. I did it many times to fix low power calls. The calibration will get your rpms back in sync with the computer and your pump output.
Thank you.
315 heating issue new injectors and rebuilt pump it runs great now no more engine flutter but still dealing with engine heat it takes about half an hour to get it up to the red but let it idle it cools off in 5 min. checked my hyd. temp in was at 162F and out was 149F at the cooler now that was after it dropped a bit I guess when coolant was at the red it would be a bit hire have done pressure checks and they were where there suppose to be engine doesn't use no coolant and it stays clean any ideas what would cause this. Rads have been washed blown out foam is in place got me stumped
Take the temps going to and coming back from the radiator when it's at it's hottest. The radiator plugged up with dust and debris is still the most likely culprit, no matter what you say.
thermostat was 202 top hose 194 bottom hose 179 that was just before warning lamp comes on the rads have been washed and blown out and there's no debris between the rads
That's all good, where's the overheating? Could your sensor be reading too high? Unless the temps get higher than that, there's no problem to diagnose...
Those numbers look a bit suspect to me. How come the 8 degree difference between the thermostat housing and the top hose unless you are getting more of a cylinder head temperature reading than a true temp reading of the t/stat housing..? I assume that you shot the temperatureof the top hose right at the hose clip where the top hose enters the radiator, and the same with the bottom hose, correct..? The 15 degree difference between the top & bottom hoses is pretty much right on the lower limit for a conventional radiator. The top limit is around 20. So you could be losing some cooling efficiency there. Your symptoms that it takes quite a bit of time for the gauge to go into the red then 5 minutes to "cool it down" with the engine at high idle are classic symptoms of a cooling system working at 90-95% efficiency rather than 100%. It doesn't take much to lose that 5-10%. Have you checked all the shrouds for being in place and undamaged to maximise air flow over the radiator..? If you have then the only thought I can come to is that despite your assertion that there is no visible debris in between the radiator and the cooler that it would be in your best interests to pull the complete package and split it for cleaning. There have been a lot of documented cases here on HEF of cooling packages on excavators that looked clean from the outside but when opened up were found to be contaminated.
Make sure the fan is installed properly. I have seen a few cases where the fan was on backwards. Less likely if it has a steel fan, but still possible.
fan is installed correctly its a plastic fan
I took temp reading in the middle of the rad hoses shrouds are all in place put a piece of paper put it in front of rad at low idle and it sucks it right up against the rad good and tight was wondering if hydraulics could cause it to heat up slowly if its sucking through the oil cooler at high temp would it cause the engine then to heat
believe temp sensor must be good just when it touches the red without warning lamp on it read 202F so am assuming if warning lamp comes on that must be 212 or so
Have you tested the thermostat ?
If it's the same as other machines the high temp warning sounds at 107C (225F) with rising temperature and goes off at 103C (217C) with falling temperature. Another thought. Is the fan speed electronically controlled or is it a directly driven fan..?
new thermostat
direct drive the engine does lug down a bit when digging in harder ground.