Hello to all, I am new to this forum and new to compact tractor ownership. So I purchased a track loader 2012 333d with 1200 hrs from a auction. This machine was un drivable at the time due to busted hydraulic lines. I have since made repairs to the hydraulic lines but it seems like the drive motors need rebuilt. (Slow response and no power) has anyone had experience on rebuilding these themselves? I have been a mechanic for 40 years. And have worked on a lot of different machines. But I have never been into a final drive. I guess what I’m looking for is words of encouragement or discouragement. Thanks Pete. Also if anyone in the community has a repair manual on PDF file and would Pages containing disassemble and reassemble these it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again Pete.
Try reaching out to @tool_king and see if he can help with the manuals.
Welcome to HEF Pete ! Lets not jump right to drive motors until we have more information starting with the serial number. EH machine or mechanical controls? Has charge pressure been checked?
This is a EH machine, I am not sure where to check the charge pressure but the other hydraulic functions seem to work fine. The serial number is, *1T033DKEB0200535*
First question. Why do you think the drive lacks power? Does it have a creep mode switch? A switch with a snail on it. Your serial number indicates that it does not. Make sure that is off if you have it. Charge pressure is measured at the filter head behind the right side engine panel. Measured at full throttle with oil at 110*F minimum. Spec is 500-700 psi. If you attach a long whip hose you can also check the charge pressure when driving during the low power to see if the charge pressure drops off. Usually the first thing I would recommend with an EH machine is to perform a calibration if charge pressure is good. If you want to dive into your own repairs then the tech manual TM11454 Operation and Test manual is a must. Repair manual is TM11439. Engine manual is CTM101019.
In answer to your question, I was running it on a 4% slope and would barely move. Slow to respond to turning. It does not have a creep mode switch. I will test the pressure at the filter housing ASAP. Thanks for the info.
A rule of thumb with hydraulics is to pressure check first. It's a way cheaper than fixing something that ain't broke.
Thanks, I Just ordered new pressure tester to replace old one i had. I will go from there.
So, I’ve checked the pressure Idle- 200-250 psi 2800 RPM 300-350 And doesn’t change at full speed. I can get it to move fast with no load. But when you drop the bucket and try to drag with it it won’t move hardly at all. Once again. Thanks to all who reply. Greatly appreciated! Pete
Too low, needs to be 500-700 psi. Remove and cut open the hydraulic filter to inspect for debris. Have a new one to install if it is clean. Then we will go from there.
When I got it It had a broken hard line on the right side final. I replaced the line along with a few more questionable lines and replaced all hydraulic fluid and filter at that time.
Do you have the old one to cut open?
Yes sir, very clean, Must have been serviced not long before I got it.
Then try adjusting the charge relief up to 500 psi at full rpm. Don't go higher because there were other issues if it is too high. The adjustment for it is on the side of the hydrostatic pump next to the park brake solenoid (I believe it will be on your left looking in). To adjust it the cab has to be up. If you start the machine with the cab up I highly recommend blocking the machine up off the ground . Also are there any codes? Press and hold the menu button for 5 seconds until Service Menu appears. Scroll through the monitor to get to codes and post any that are active/stored.
I’m having the exact same problems with my 333D. Did you happen to ever find a solution?