Picked this up not running yesterday for $500. The machine had sat for 2-3 years since last run. Not surprisingly the injection pump didn't pump. The po told me 3 years ago the tractor had a new injection pump. I tried a remote fuel tank so I had a known clean fuel source. I tried to see if it would do anything. Nope! It would fire with a sniff of ether so I was encouraged. I bought this without having personally seeing it or hearing it running but figured for $500 I could part it if it was a total pos. I found the timing marks, made sure the pump marks were aligned and pulled the injection pump. Brought it in the shop and the pistons were stuck, hell pretty much EVERYTHING was stuck in there... After a good cleaning up and new seals The tractor runs really good. It fires up instantly now when I press the remote starter button. The wiring is a mess and was scorched. All the hydraulics work. The shuttle does work but it seems low on power. It has a high low selector and it will pop right out of low if you try to move in low range. I drained all the fuel today, cleaned the tank as best as possible, and with fresh fuel it is running on it's own tank now.It already had new fuel filters. Sorry for rambling on...
Decent looking for its age. Good for you on the pump cleaning. I wouldn't call that rambling on tho. It is good info.
Worst case it’s probably more than $500 just in parts and scrap. Winner winner chicken dinner if you can get it fully working!
Nice job with the pump diagnosis and service..I agree whole heartedly with Tinkerer, not rambling, just a thorough introduction to this resurrection thread...Keep these crappy, rambling threads coming...The pics don't hurt either...Only 1 question, did you replace the filters or were they replaced by the po? If they were on there when all that yuck got sucked through the pump they are probably yucked too, no matter how shiny they are on the outside.... But if you were able to disassemble and service the pump you probably knew that
The filters were on there before I got it but I Had them off before running it so I personally could see that they were clean. My guess is the PO tried to get it going with old filters and old fuel and when it wouldn't start thought..OH! it must be the filters! He told me it just lost it's prime and you know how hard it can be to get them primed again... I drained ~17 gallons of old fuel out. Luckily for me the local town barn heats with waste oil and will take it free. The other thing about this machine is that is has A TON of welds on it. The loader tower all around the fill plug is cracked and likely the reason the hydraulic fluid looks more like milk than oil. That will be the next thing to drain after it stops raining here. I have a tarp over it now. At first when I hooked up a battery to it even with a remote start switch the starter would only click. The main power cable was pretty scorched at the starter end so I tried taking the nut off the starter (With 2 wrenches) NOPE It was so scorched and rusted it wouldn't come off. Luckily I had another starter from my OTHER backhoe project. Put the new one in, New cable and remote switch and Voila! It turned over. I am pretty sure the old starter will be ok with a new solenoid, well at least I hope it will be. The rest of the wiring...... I did try digging with the front bucket and the 2nd time I tried to curl the bucket to pick up the dirt, the milk sprayed from a hose. $99 later for 2 hoses and I was back in business. There are a bunch of new hoses already on the backhoe so we'll see how that goes. I do see the backhoe control valves seemed to be leaking milk too. I guess one good thing about the milky oil is that it makes it pretty easy to see where it's coming from against the black background. Pretty much this whole tractor has gunky black all over it! Bought 4 cans of gunk to help with that... Even the steering wheel is welded together with the plastic all gone in the center area. When I first tried the steering it was SUPER hard to turn with the motor running. After about a quart of power steering fluid and lifting the tires off the ground with the bucket, I cycled the wheels back and forth a bunch of times and now the steering works decent. Oh yeah the other thing is, The radiator leaks about 1/2 way down so I didn't want to run it too long and burn it up. I will be picking up a radiator from a 580 I recently sold for parts..I KNEW I should have kept it. As bad as it sounds and looks, it does actually still work and it runs REALLY well. I will post more pix next time it's not raining. Worst case I could sell it for more than I bought it for and use the money to fix my 580ck. But, I most likely will use it and keep fixing it as I go for now.
As promised, More pictures of this beautiful antique in pristine condition! I had to replace the radiator as it leaked BAD! Fortunately I got another one from a 580 and it fit. I wouldn't wish that job on an enemy! Talk about NO room, Had to take the fan off and even still it BARELY came out. At least with the radiator out I was able to clean the last 55 years of goo out from under there and around the hydraulic pump. Now at least when I have to drain the radiator in the future there is a hole for it to drain out of! HOW do rocks get down there??? So the other day when I was working on it it was t-shirt weather.Today...Winter hat, 2 sweatshirts, army jacket and gloves.... Tomorrow I will get some new antifreeze, a new battery so I don't have to steal the battery from the dozer and hopefully drain/ refill the shuttle milk. Maybe get some quality welding time on the beast too, we will see
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Man I got issues..Is it just me or does the right side of that first picture (top left) look like a big ol' crusty backhoe boob ? On a serious note that poor hoe sure has had a hard life, good thing she's getting some TLC now...
I think the same welder attacked my poor old 69 430 hoe.Thing keeps on going though tough old machines.
OOPS! I changed the shuttle fluid today. Or should I say the water and tiny bit of oil. It didn't have much push before.. It does now! I already started removing the "scabs" they put on before. I might rebuild the top of the hydraulic tank out of 1/4 plate. It has been put back together before and looks like a spiders web. I think there is still a sticky valve though, sometimes when I let out the clutch pedal the tractor has good push. Other times I have to shift into whatever the opposite direction is, let out the clutch and it will have the power. Then I change back into the gear I wanted to begin with. The other strange thing is, The shuttle pressure never drops when I push in the clutch pedal. Anyone know what I should check for that issue? I also changed the Fluid in the trans/ rear end today too. So, when I went to put antifreeze in the new to me radiator..Yep,It was leaking. There were a few cracks in the flat area around the top hose connection. Wasn't about to let that stop me! Broke out the bernzomatic, the acid flux, 60/40 solder. With a little wire-brushing and sanding I sealed it up. Also put in a new thermostat as there wasn't one in there.
So good news for me. I found a pair of good hydraulic tanks near me so I won't have to try to piece this one back together. Spent some time with a pressure washer a scrub brush and simple green. It looks better without all the tree sap all over it and I should be able to see where the leaks are now. It looks like a different color since washing. 1st picture is before
Cool to see old equipment get a new lease on life. What is that bar sticking out on the left side? Looks like a skull basher.
That is the pivot for the Loader and yes I have hit my head on it already
BBBut, why is it sticking out like that ?
Because I will be replacing the other tank that the top was broken. I had to drive it out that far to clear the tube on the top of the far side tank
that certainly is a lot of previous scabby repairs
Yes there are! Wait till I show the backhoe " REPAIRS"
Well,I needed to move the hoe out of the driveway but that is the only place my welder can reach. I decided to weld up the cracks on the backhoe before I moved it so that at least One thing is mostly done... I wanted to close up the cracks by moving the plates back where they belonged but, the last person just welded it together AFTER everything spread open. I would be grinding for DAYS to do that. I really don't see why they had SOOO MANY welds on it before... Welding school project maybe?! Any ways, I welded up the big open cracks after vee-ing them out. Layed a root pass with the stick welder then built it up . What a mess. I know my welds were full penetration so I can only hope it stays together. I tried it out after it all cooled down and I lifted the front of the tractor without breaking it back open. Progress on something. The backhoe control valves leak a lot. That will have to be one of the next things to fix. I also noticed a puddle of gear oil under it. Looks like there is a leak on the transmission/ rear end somewhere
This $500 project certainly is presenting a "few" challenges, but challenges of this magnitude exercise your brain and skills in a good way and the end product usually makes ya smile and say holy **** I did that...Big question is..are you gonna paint it or leave it a ratrod?
Ratrod for now. We will see once more gets fixed and working. Hopefully picking up the hydraulic tanks this weekend. Once that is on I can at least use the front loader.
I picked up the hydraulic tanks. The loader on my 530 is a 32. The tanks are for a 33. Hmm back to deciding if I fix the original tank or not...
On Another note on this backhoe.The backhoe mounts are COMPLETELY welded solid. That wouldn't be all bad maybe BUT, the backhoe control valves all leak as if there is no o-ring left in them. How much aggravation is it going to be to repair them in the backhoe? It looks like the tower with the levers is bolted on. Maybe I can remove that and get some access to the valves? Looking for anyone who has done this job before for tips. TIA
I have a copy of the parts manual for this. I can't seem to find where it shows the spool valves and seals for the backhoe control valves. It shows all the pressure relief valves just nothing on the spools. Is there a different breakdown somewhere? I am trying to familiarize myself with what I am getting into before going hog wild and screwing myself
The backhoe models and the parts list for them start here. ----> https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/c...backhoes/backhoe/cn/NA_E_S_49_LOA_212_BACKHOE The #32 backhoe has 2 different valves listed. Look at line item #110 and # 118. Here ---> https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/c...005056875BD6_00_COMPLETE_MACHINE?pagination=3
Thank you for that. I have been to that site before but, always have a hard time finding what I want. Most likely just operator error!
Back on the Ol Hoe last few days. I decided to weld up the existing tank and hope for the best. I spent 1/2 a day sunday welding and in place black-smithing. I used a piece of 3/16 steel I had and plug welded it to the tank.Then I heated what became a flange with my acetylene torch and persuaded it with my 3lb. hand sledge. Not the prettiest but Hey, It is better than it was. At least I can use it now. I need to make a spacer to space the loader arm out a bit. I tested the loader today for ~ 3 hours moving a pile of dirt from out front to out back. The dirt was very loamy and dense. I figure if it didn't break I did ok. The case-omatic acts weird. Sometimes it has good power as soon as I let off the "clutch" pedal,and other times it will sort of move the tractor and all of a sudden it acts like something engages and then it has pushing power. When it does that, even engaging direct drive doesn't help. Not sure what that is.